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My Build Consideration - need your input


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My stock 98K motor has come back with cyl 2 and 4 low compression due to rings. There are signs of rust, though no coolant leaking.

 

I’m currently stage 2 and have been maybe for 3k. I’d like to stay stage 2 and keep this as a daily driver.

 

Options:

Rebuild the current motor – my mechanic says he can do this, blueprinting and all to ensure a very smooth and balanced motor. He suggested forged pistons; I’m concerned this is overkill for my mild 16-18psi tune.

 

Includes:

Rebuild block

Forged Pistons or save a little and remain stock

Aftermarket oil pick up

Install

Brake in process

Oil change

UOA

 

$4,400 and about 4 weeks.

 

 

Buy short block from Subaru – my mechanic says this will be a little more money but half the time required to do so.

 

Includes:

Stock internals

Aftermarket oil pick up

Brake In process

Oil changes

 

He didn’t quote price because he wasn’t certain the current short block price from Subaru. My research suggests it’s about $2,000, so I’d expect it to come in closer to $5,000.

 

Buying a new short block would give me a backup I could have fixed in down time for when this next Subaru motor goes.

 

Thoughts?

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I gather your not going to touch the heads. Not even a simple rebuild to make sure the valves are in great shape ?

 

You know all the issues with valves on some of these.

 

Sounds like you plan to keep the car for a long time...have the heads rebuilt.

 

Pistons are a hard choice. There are cars that have over 200k on the stock pistons...

 

If your going to rebuild yours, spend the extra and get the pistons.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I gather your not going to touch the heads. Not even a simple rebuild to make sure the valves are in great shape ?

 

You know all the issues with valves on some of these.

 

Sounds like you plan to keep the car for a long time...have the heads rebuilt.

 

Pistons are a hard choice. There are cars that have over 200k on the stock pistons...

 

If your going to rebuild yours, spend the extra and get the pistons.

 

Could point. I believe they will inspect but I'm not certain.

 

My only concern about forged is piston slap. Going to discuss with Kevin if they can build it tight enough to avoid this problem.

 

Anything else I should consider?

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If the machine shop is good, they can build it without slap or very little.

 

My buddy was telling me they figured out how to do it at his machine shop.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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$4400 includes the machine work and labor to uninstall and reinstall the engine?

 

Im not sure what your situation is like with time or an extra car, but you could save a LOT by doing the labor yourself. I understand if you dont want to touch it. Its really not that bad though.

 

As far as the heads go, you absolutely should go through them and at least do the valve seals and do a pressure test. They're probably fine but after the machine shop goes through them you just wont have to worry about them.

 

you may want to do a water pump and new idlers unless you've JUST done them.

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$4400 includes the machine work and labor to uninstall and reinstall the engine?

 

Im not sure what your situation is like with time or an extra car, but you could save a LOT by doing the labor yourself. I understand if you dont want to touch it. Its really not that bad though.

 

As far as the heads go, you absolutely should go through them and at least do the valve seals and do a pressure test. They're probably fine but after the machine shop goes through them you just wont have to worry about them.

 

you may want to do a water pump and new idlers unless you've JUST done them.

 

Spoke to them this AM.

 

It will include water pump, timing belt, all the labor to do it and the machine of the heads if it's required. It's sort of a worst case quote, including new crank if required and it will go down if not needed. This shop is very respected in Reno.

 

It also includes a 12/month 12K warranty.

 

In short, what he told me is I would have a 'new' rebuilt motor. Resetting the clock to 0 miles on it.

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While they're rebuilding I'm going to replace the oil pick up as to not have that fail down the road.

 

Anything else I should change out?

 

I did the hoses for the coolant system. Just made sense to me, I plan to keep the car for a long time.

 

I did clutch and new insert for my LWFW.

 

Don't forget the 1/2 moon seals for the valve covers.

 

Oil return hose. yours is hard.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks Max.

 

This will be the most expensive repair I've ever had on a car, and the only non-Honda I've owned in sometime. While I cannot completely blame Subaru for what is appearing like an overheat prior to my purchase, I'm not at all happy with the fact ringland and valve failures are common place. :(

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It's about half what I spent with the rebuild and going stage 2 after deducting what I spent on a source engine for the rebuild. Went with Mahle 4032s and still running strong after 45k on the rebuild.

 

It is noisy though...

 

Don't cheat yourself by failing to calculate the total cost... Rental cars for the downtime, expect a week delay beyond the 4 due to parts availability (wrong part shipped etc).

 

Is the turbo good?

No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels...
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Subscribed for info. In the same situation.

 

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a rebuild vs new shortblock.

 

I can get a rebuilt longblock for 3300 with install at 800.

 

New shortblock is 1850 shippped from hurbeurger - If im staying at stg1 is the rebuilt block enough? I want to keep the car for years to come and need it to be a reliable DD.

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If you are going with forged pistons take a look at CP. They were designed with a longer skirt to reduce piston slap. I just pulled my motor this morning. There is a great write up here somewhere and some videos on youtube by Brainsmobile1. I spun a bearing and am also looking into upgrades. I have ordered a long block from Phoenix Performance (a vendor here). Good luck with whatever you decide.
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It's about half what I spent with the rebuild and going stage 2 after deducting what I spent on a source engine for the rebuild. Went with Mahle 4032s and still running strong after 45k on the rebuild.

 

It is noisy though...

 

Don't cheat yourself by failing to calculate the total cost... Rental cars for the downtime, expect a week delay beyond the 4 due to parts availability (wrong part shipped etc).

 

Is the turbo good?

Good points. I have more then one car so no rental.

 

The turbo had no shaft play 2k ago when I had dp off.

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Thanks Max.

 

This will be the most expensive repair I've ever had on a car, and the only non-Honda I've owned in sometime. While I cannot completely blame Subaru for what is appearing like an overheat prior to my purchase, I'm not at all happy with the fact ringland and valve failures are common place. :(

 

From my view, I haven't had any valve or ringland issues. But I have been off the OEM MAP since 8000 miles...I'm just saying.

 

But we also have a few cars over 200k that have been on the OEM most of their miles.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 weeks later...
Subscribed for info. In the same situation.

 

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a rebuild vs new shortblock.

 

I can get a rebuilt longblock for 3300 with install at 800.

 

New shortblock is 1850 shippped from hurbeurger - If im staying at stg1 is the rebuilt block enough? I want to keep the car for years to come and need it to be a reliable DD.

 

The reason I'm going rebuild is because I want to select the internals and ensure all the fixes are done.

 

I believe there is part design and part tune problem with these motors. I'm going to attempt to resolve both at the same time.

 

I'm also adding an AVO TMIC (as stock one is leaking) and some gauges in the cubby.

 

My end goals are simple.

1. Get the car on the road

2. Handle stage 2

3. Make some changes to ensure 100K life of motor

 

Fixing is cheaper then selling.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Motor is back from machine shop and will be getting put back together. First start up ETA 24/25.

 

Nothing visibly jumped out at them during the tear down process. Most likely water got into the oil while on the dealers lot (6 months in winter, multiple cold starts and no heat cycle).

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Lol I'll hopefully get some when I pick it up. :)

 

Life has been crazy. Work and soon to be new wife.

 

 

New wife...what happened to the old one...LOL :)

 

Yes life can get crazy at times.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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New wife...what happened to the old one...LOL :)

 

Yes life can get crazy at times.

 

She decided to have an affair with some low life in 2011/12. He told me about it 12 months later and wanted to marry her. I divorced for obvious reason, he treated her like crap during the process, so she lost him as well and now she works some dead end job on the East cost for $10/hour.

 

I got the car. I've rebuild my life, but it's ironic I'm rebuilding the motor as well.

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