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Spark Plug Install Instructions


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Taking off the coil pack is real easy. The hardest one is the back driver side. The only way to really get it is to unclip it from the wire coming to it and it will come right out. If I would have known that I would have finished the whole project in 45 minutes. Make sure you use the knuckle! If not then you ain't getting far besides maybe one plug...
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  • 4 weeks later...

I would run stage 2 with your new components for a little while...

make sure you don't have any issues from those....

 

that way if something happens right after your spark plug change you don't have to wonder if it was the spark plug change or the new components from going stage 2....

 

just my suggestion...

 

 

 

 

Ok, so maybe this is a dumb question, but what are you referring to as a "knuckle extension"?

 

Im right at 50k miles, but just went to Stage2, so I figure its a good time to get some fresh plugs in the car.

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I would run stage 2 with your new components for a little while...

make sure you don't have any issues from those....

 

that way if something happens right after your spark plug change you don't have to wonder if it was the spark plug change or the new components from going stage 2....

 

just my suggestion...

 

I'm not quite sure what "stage 2" means, and yet I have to whole-

heartedly second this suggestion !

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Hey Rusty,

 

Stage 1 Kit Includes:

- AccessPORT

- Quick Start User Guide

- USB Cable

- OBDII Connector

- Software CD

 

Actual AccessPORT screen shots:

http://www.cobbtuning.com/images_products/screen_shot_install.jpg

 

http://www.cobbtuning.com/images_products/screen_shot_change_map.jpg

 

http://www.cobbtuning.com/images_products/screen_shot_live_data.jpg

 

**Click Here for an AccessPORT installation video**

Requires no tools or mechanical knowledge to install. The AccessPORT does all the work of programming the factory ECU for you, just simply plug it into the factory service diagnosis port located below the steering wheel. Follow the on-screen instructions and within 10 minutes you'll be out driving, enjoying your new found performance.

In order to improve the already sizable performance of the LGT, our engineers have spent hundreds of hours researching the factory Engine Computer (ECU) programming and testing changes on our All-Wheel Drive chassis dynos.

Our goal is simple: to provide the optimal balance of performance, driveability, engine response, and reliability.

The AccessPORT, the core component in Stage 1, enables you with the freedom to continue the quest for additional performance if you desire in the future. As other engine modifications are made, the AccessPORT will grow and adapt to your needs helping you extract the most from your LGT. Click here to read more about the AccessPORT.

In addition to improved performance, the AccessPORT also has additional features allowing you to put the vehicle into special modes such as: Max Fuel Economy, Valet, or Security.

For a dyno graph displaying the improved power and torque gained from installing the Stage 1 Power package, click here.

 

Please Note: This package will only work with North American Legacy GTs.

 

Click Here for the New AccessPORT Manager!

Click Here for the LGT AccessPORT Map Downloads!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stage 2 Kit Includes:

- AccessPORT

- Quick Start User Guide

- USB Cable

- OBDII Connector

- Software CD

- COBB Downpipe

- COBB Cat Back

Click image to expand Downpipe.

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  • 3 weeks later...
picture?

 

exactly what "THING" is a must...

 

I am getting the tools ready to do this!

 

I think he means either a U-joint or a wobble extension. One of the two is a must. I bought a wobble. It worked. Next time, I'll probably buy and try a u-joint to see if it's easier.

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I don't see a price for the stage 2 accessport setup on cobbtuning.com. how much does that run

 

-Luke

 

I think very few people actually buy direct from Cobb. Usually they piece stuff together.

 

For instance, I bought a used AP 1.0 (old version), gutted my own DP and bought an off-the-shelf tune from the not-really-around-anymore TDC tuning.

 

Others will buy a different brand UP or DP, and get a tune at a local tuner, etc.

 

Cobb's off-the-shelf stage 2 is VERY conservative, I believe.

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wow, sorry to hear that....

 

 

I've never heard of that happening....

 

did you fix it?

 

Is this a 96?

Yeah, had a heli coil put in.

After seeing how easy it was, I should have done it myself.

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Hmmm... It sounds like you are using the spark plugs that are designed for the NON TURBO Legacy....

 

you might want to check that....

 

 

Ugh just finished doing mine. Old plugs with 52k looked good as far as I can tell. My biggest problem was the plug socket became really stuck on the newly installed plug on the passenger side rear. I spent 25 minutes with trying to get the socket off the plug. My other major problem is that I did not any appopriate 2" extension and had to use a universal where a 2" extension would have been MUCH easier to work with for plug removal and install. I think a 2" extension is key.

 

It took me 3 hours including battery and intake removal and reinstall. Started engine and took it for a drive. No detectable difference from before, which is a good thing, I suppose. I put in the NGK 6619's (LFR6AIX-11).

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Just finished changing the plugs on a 2005 XT outback. Thanks so much for this thread. Here are my few hints:

 

1. Battery and air filter box removal a must for my year

2. Remove the one 'button' that holds some type of fireproof matting on the fenders on both sides. The button is up toward the front. Just pry it off but don't rip the matting. It doesn't look like it will add much room, but it makes the world of different. They just rotate down and out of the way.

3. No need for 1/4" driver. I just used a regular wrench with a slight bend (offset wrench). A good collect of extensions pretty nice to have.

4. The swivel joint (universal, whatever) makes life much harder. No feel and it binds. I can't imagine trying to feel how tight the plugs are with that thing, and the binding wouldn't give good torque readings. A 2" extension with a 5/8 spark plug socket works perfect. Just pull the ratchet off before you back the plug out all the way or you can't anything out.

5. Passenger side rear was the hardest one for me

6. 180 deg twist didn't work for me, but I did have to twist them in all kinds of different ways to get them out. You have to unplug them! I was under the impression some people didn't unplug all of them. No idea how they can do this without unplugging them

7. anti seize compound on the new plugs makes threading them in by hand real nice and gives good feel for tightening them.

8. There is no feeling or click to putting the boot back on. They just slide on and that's that. I was nervous since I expected SOME feel to that... No issue with sliding on the boot. Just went on...

 

I do think that this year must be easier than earlier years since it wasn't too bad. Not a lot of room, but enough.

 

I am fairly mechanically inclined, have done spark plugs on a number of other vehicles (including Ford Ranger with 8 plugs for 4 cyl that are HARD compared to this) and was nervous about doing it. I shouldn't have been.

 

Time = 2 1/2 hours

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lol i still can't believe a spark plug change is 2-3 hours. i'm used to 4 minute spark plug changes on my boosted honda haha. man that bay is so empty :-P

 

again, this is a great thread, i'll be doing my 60K service myself here in about a month after i get some school stuff done

 

-Luke

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