Replacement battery

Any recommendations for a replacement battery for a 2015 Legacy 2.5i?

I like both the Optima and Interstate batteries. I have purchased batteries from Walmart too that are highly rated in CR and was very satisfied.

Interstate from Costco if you have a membership.

Dekka AGM battery, they last seemingly forever...

So far, every battery site I go on has no info on batteries for either my current or previous (14) Legacy. What Battery group is our battery? I found somewhere that our battery is Group 14. Can that be right? My battery is small; doesn't even fill the battery holder.

So far, every battery site I go on has no info on batteries for either my current or previous (14) Legacy. What Battery group is our battery? I found somewhere that our battery is Group 14. Can that be right? My battery is small; doesn't even fill the battery holder.

 

I am almost sure our battery is group 25

What Battery group is our battery?

 

For MY 2015-2017 Legacy/Outback, 2.5 or 3.6 engine, the OE battery is BCI Group 25. Others have determined that Group 34 or Group 24 batteries, which usually have slightly higher rated capacity than Group 25, will fit as well.

After having two dead Subaru batteries in 2 years on my 15 Legacy 3.6r, I bought a Duracell Copper Top from Batteries Plus. No problems since!

After having two dead Subaru batteries in 2 years on my 15 Legacy 3.6r, I bought a Duracell Copper Top from Batteries Plus. No problems since!

 

Same thing here. Replaced mine with a Group 34 Duracell AGM (775 CCA) from Batteries Plus over 2 years ago and haven’t looked back.

Subaru batteries are covered for free for 3 years/36k

 

For those that had battery issues there is an ECM reflash available to ensure the alternator is charging the battery fully as the original flash would not.

Subaru batteries are covered for free for 3 years/36k

 

For those that had battery issues there is an ECM reflash available to ensure the alternator is charging the battery fully as the original flash would not.

 

 

I believe I read somewhere before that you're a service writer (my apologies if I am incorrect), and if so maybe you wouldn't give people a hassle on replacing a dead battery. My own experience (I live one hour from the closest Subaru dealer to me) is that when they checked mine they said "it's within spec," when it clearly was not and it failed within the first 6 months.

 

The problem is that Subaru uses crap batteries with 350/490 CCA, which are severely underrated for what the cars need. Heck, my zero turn mower uses a 350 CCA battery.

 

In any case, I didn't want the hassle of more dealer pushback and getting another battery that would possibly fail. I went overkill with what I purchased, but no issues since and I don't have to think about it now.

 

But thanks for the additional info for those who may need the ECM reflash.

What's the warranty on the Duracell ones? The Costco battery warranty is pretty good, I think it's 96 months pro-rated and I think around 36-48 full replacement?

 

Last time I changed my battery I also invested in a new tie-down for it.

So does anyone with the ECM reflash notice any difference? Is the cranking speed higher or the voltage increased a little?

I got the update when the weather warmed up so I couldn’t tell. If it gets below two digits again, I will report back. They didn’t replace my battery. I’m still hoping it will make it through this winter. Next winter I will replace it if not sooner.

So does anyone with the ECM reflash notice any difference? Is the cranking speed higher or the voltage increased a little?

 

Same here. I got mine done a month or so ago. I didn't have a dead battery, but had them do it anyway so I don't end up with a dead one when its in the single digits..

 

I haven't checked at the terminal yet, but what is reported by the dash cam 14.2/12.4 (running/off) is pretty much the same (but that is wired off the inside fuse box. so may be due to some drop across the electronics). Will test in a few weeks and let you know.

The dealer told me this morning that they would replace my 350 battery with a 550 amp model for free, since there was a bulletin to the effect that the 350 was "undersized".

 

My battery tested ok, but I had mentioned that I needed a jump start recently for no apparent reason.

Whatever battery you select - try to find the a battery with the highest capacity that you can fit in the battery location from a well-known brand. Cheaping out on the battery is just making it last shorter.

 

Also realize that the car manufacturer delivers the car with the cheapest battery they can get away with.

I dunno about that the original battery in my CL-S lasted 8 years and the one in my current car is going on 4.5 years and no issue starting car when -27F outside.

For MY 2015-2017 Legacy/Outback, 2.5 or 3.6 engine, the OE battery is BCI Group 25. Others have determined that Group 34 or Group 24 batteries, which usually have slightly higher rated capacity than Group 25, will fit as well.

 

Hi ammcinnis, I've checked the manual and searched the forum and maybe I've missed it, but can you (or anyone else) advise me in regards as to whether some sort of memory saver is recommended/essential in order to save data settings before changing the battery in our vehicles?

The dealer told me this morning that they would replace my 350 battery with a 550 amp model for free, since there was a bulletin to the effect that the 350 was "undersized".

 

Does anybody have a copy of the bulletin?

I was hoping to find & read that bulletin to Subaru dealers as well.

... can you (or anyone else) advise me in regards as to whether some sort of memory saver is recommended/essential in order to save data settings before changing the battery in our vehicles?

 

With respect to battery replacement, the Factory Service Manual is silent on the subject. It merely instructs technicians to disconnect and reconnect the battery. However, I have seen TSBs and Subaru technician training materials that advise the tech to "record" all volatile values in the entertainment system head unit before disconnecting the battery, and then to restore them when the battery is reconnected. Of course, re-initializing the front window controllers is also required following a battery disconnect. Finally, complex controllers like the ECU and TCU may have to "relearn" some volatile parameters after a battery disconnect.

 

That said, many techs do prefer to use some kind of "memory saver" to save time and avoid the hassle of recording/restoring volatile owner customization. Customers are probably happier, too, when they return to find the vehicle configured exactly as they left it.

 

One other comment: Some TSBs and service operations in the FSM (e.g. firmware updates) do advise techs to use a supplemental power source connected in parallel with the battery to prevent "bricking" a controller or head unit if battery power is lost (e.g. the battery goes flat) in the middle of a long update.

In relation to the valued reply above from ammcinnis regarding the recording of data before changing a battery, can anyone who has replaced a battery, comment on what precautions they have taken ... if any.

I just disconnected the old battery and installed the new battery took about 45seconds to a minute. All I needed to do is reset the passenger window. Didn't loose nav information or history.

 

But I did loose nav information with the last Nav updates.

 

Laughing at oneself and with others is good for the Soul![emoji2]

Just had a complete discharge to dead overnight on our 1-month old 2018 Limited. The head unit went AWOL yesterday, pretty sure it's related to that, cannot see any other cause and not blaming the battery, but definitely a disappointment. At least it's the weekend and she can sit on the slow charge overnight.