How often does your clutch and throw out bearing fail?

Got the car with 130k and TO bearing failed at 142k. I've got 72k on new Exedy with TSK1. Going to replace only the TO bearing since disc and pressure plate looks fine.

I'm pretty hard on my clutch. Just wish there was a throw out bearing that lasted longer. Why don't these last long on our cars??

Anyone used an off the shelf TO bearing with their TSK1? Manufacturer of TSK said their bearings are lased to match the taper of the sleeve but using a micrometer, I couldn't tell there was any difference in diameter over the length of the sleeve. Doesn't make sense except for repeat business. The stock bearing rattles terribly on the snout without the sleeve (by hand). TSK1b (replacement bearing only) is over twice the cost of stock from local parts store. Not sure what to do but I sure hate having to replace the darn thing every 70k when the clutch is fine.

I wonder if changing to the GT for fork and bearing would help?

How long does your clutch and TO bearing last (N/A folks)?

My former 08 2.5i has around 117K on the replaced OEM setup (replaced at 23K due to PP fin failure under warranty) stil going strong per the new owner. My 09 LGT OEM setup failed at 83K due to TOB failure the disc and PP was in great shape.

The better answer is that lifespan is driver dependent if you ride the clutch a lot dont expect much out of a stock setup.

Why did you install the TSK1? Did you suffer snout damage? If not there is no need for the kit as typically people replace the TOB before it explodes TOBs fail b/c they are cheap replacements or installed improperly (return spring not present/no lube/wrong lube) or the slave cylinder isn't adjusted right or is damaged.

Stock Exedy is top of the line for a 2.5i as it is spec'd well above the EJ253 output numbers (200hp- 200ft/lbs trq) and is affordable. You could swap over to the LGT/WRX clutch pack for greater clamping force but youll only make pedal modulation require slightly more effort. The disc is slightly larger also 230mm vs stock 224mm but splined the same (24T), you would need the fork, clutch pack and TOB to make it work but there is no need for the added expense.

TOBs fail b/c they are cheap replacements or installed improperly (return spring not present/no lube/wrong lube) or the slave cylinder isn't adjusted right or is damaged.

I don't recall a return spring on my setup. I can add this?

How do I verify proper operation of slave cylinder/fork once everything is put back together? Or can this be done while apart? (I won't upgrade to GT hardware methinks.)

Manual Transmission Reference.pdf, note on page 14: "Whenever the hydraulic clutch parts are serviced and/or replaced, precise linkage adjustments must be performed in the proper sequence to insure proper clutch operation and to avoid possible damage to the clutch components."

This follows what appears to be the pull type clutch (GT?) and not the N.A. but should I be adjusting my push setup and where is that info?