Stock suspension

Hey all, I have Whiteline front LCA bushings, and that's all right now. Just got lots of power mods, and I am buying some rain worthy tires soon. In a few months, I plan on doing some suspension work. I am thinking KW Variant 2's ( Perhaps after winter 2014/2015) and also some bars to stiffen er' up. I forget, does an LGT tend to over or understeer? What's the best and cheapest setup to counter it ? rear or front bars? Or just run tower and strut bars all around for best results ? Ive read some peoples setups that have only one bar in the rear.. I think. Thanks for replies.

Subarus understeer. All of them. Best thing to fix this other than tires, is to increase front end grip and get body roll under control. People like to go for a rear swaybar, but the best thing to do is shocks/springs first. Since you got your eye on the KW v2, that should be the first thing. Strut tower bars do nothing. Doing the bar only may make the car feel more neutral, but you sacrifice rear grip to accomplish it and it wont give you the full body motion control you get with a spring and shock upgrade.

Alright ! Thanks for your help

Since you are talking about coilovers what kind of racing do you do? Auto-x? Time Trials? HPDE?

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

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I will be visiting BIR and Road America a few times in the next couple years, but I just like having a modded car around the city.

I will be visiting BIR and Road America a few times in the next couple years, but I just like having a modded car around the city.

 

Konis and springs are what you want. Coilovers are way too much maintenance and provide worse on-road driving than Konis. If you aren't planning on taking it to the track that often, it's just a waste to throw toward coilovers.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

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Konis and springs are what you want. Coilovers are way too much maintenance and provide worse on-road driving than Konis. If you aren't planning on taking it to the track that often, it's just a waste to throw toward coilovers.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

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Unless you like the option to lower or raise your car with ease.

 

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It's not like you should really be lowering or raising your car regularly with coilovers. Every time you touch ride height you need to re-align the car. Not to mention the fact that one of the true advantages to running a coilover as opposed to a fixed perch strut is the ability to corner balance the car, which you also must re-do every time you alter ride height. Unless you have a nice set of scales and the chops, that gets expensive REALLY fast.

 

I also wouldn't run coilovers year round if I lived in MN.

It's not like you should really be lowering or raising your car regularly with coilovers. Every time you touch ride height you need to re-align the car. Not to mention the fact that one of the true advantages to running a coilover as opposed to a fixed perch strut is the ability to corner balance the car, which you also must re-do every time you alter ride height. Unless you have a nice set of scales and the chops, that gets expensive REALLY fast.

 

I also wouldn't run coilovers year round if I lived in MN.

 

Exactly. You are looking at about $300-400 every time you change the ride height, for alignment and corner balancing. Coilovers aren't made to withstand street duty year round without being R&Red every year.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

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"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Unless you like the option to lower or raise your car with ease.

 

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"With ease"

 

As was stated, you are looking at $300-400 in alignments and corner balancing every time you do that...

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Never paid that much for alignments. And you don't need to get it aligned when your adjusting the height in your driveway to get it where you want.. once you find your height then you get it aligned

 

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Never paid that much for alignments. And you don't need to get it aligned when your adjusting the height in your driveway to get it where you want.. once you find your height then you get it aligned

 

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That's for ALIGNMENT & CORNER BALANCING together.

 

Again, you need to R&R it on a yearly basis and coils are not meant to be street driven. Read any of the disclaimers on coilover documentation. "For Off Road Use Only".

 

To each his own...

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Spring rates that are as high as most coilovers come with ride like crap without corner balancing, and are not worth it IMO. The stiffer the rates are the larger the variance from corner to corner if left unbalanced and just "eyeballed," or even "measured". You really need to put the car on scales.

Spring rates that are as high as most coilovers come with ride like crap without corner balancing, and are not worth it IMO. The stiffer the rates are the larger the variance from corner to corner if left unbalanced and just "eyeballed," or even "measured". You really need to put the car on scales.

 

To take this another step further, the cheap coilovers (Sub $1100 or so) generally will ship with a very high spring rate to compensate for their lack of damping ability. This isn't ideal and will reduce your upward and downward travel resulting in a dangerous situation for on-road driving.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

I hear ya. I had considered bilstein HD and STi pinks also. Koni's could work too. I realize this would be very expensive but what about this ? [ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_LqG_eUICAg]EDFC ACTIVE Promotion Video(English) - YouTube[/ame]

dis price tho..

http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/kon-11401671.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=20861070197

You need more castor, a good alignment, and tires before anything.

 

That and driver training. #1 go fast mod is tightening the nut behind the wheel.

 

Then step up to a koni or bilstein with springs.

 

If you get super competitive about track days then yeah consider KWs, but if it gets to that point, you'd go with a lighter chassis to begin with...

dis price tho..

http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/kon-11401671.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=20861070197

 

Oh as long as you are going to buy from the cheapest vendor, they can perhaps answer your questions going forward.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

You need more castor, a good alignment, and tires before anything.

 

That and driver training. #1 go fast mod is tightening the nut behind the wheel.

 

Then step up to a koni or bilstein with springs.

 

If you get super competitive about track days then yeah consider KWs, but if it gets to that point, you'd go with a lighter chassis to begin with...

 

100% Thats why I moved to an STi, and now to a BRZ. Weight on the track is your #1 enemy.

 

As far as driver training, that is key. It is also a mod that you can very easily transfer from car to car.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

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Yea for sure. Tires are the next thing I am getting.. and yes going with the cheapest vendor on this one.. sorry

Yea for sure. Tires are the next thing I am getting.. and yes going with the cheapest vendor on this one.. sorry

 

No Problemo. Karma is a beautiful thing.

 

It's sad when you get helped by folks who sell the items yet you so brazenly and proudly go buy from the bargain basement guys who don't know shit about the products. Like I said in the future contact these bargain basement online retailers with your questions. See how far you get.

 

Shame.

 

Mike

I don't have the resources some people do, I cant build a BRZ in MN and run on the track whenever I please. I am more or less building a street car. These forums are to answer questions more than to sell parts. I don't have an issue buying from you, I have purchased many parts from vendors off this website. No need to be salty

I don't have the resources some people do, I cant build a BRZ in MN and run on the track whenever I please. I am more or less building a street car. These forums are to answer questions more than to sell parts. I don't have an issue buying from you, I have purchased many parts from vendors off this website. No need to be salty

 

I'm just saying that people with knowledge help you out here and then you go and post up the bargain basement sites to buy the veery parts those folks helped you decide on. You see no value in that help. No different than most folks in this country and the reason that there is a collective lack of knowledge out there.

 

I wouldn't have been so salty but you were quite proud to say you would gladly go to the cheapest place regardless of who helped you out.

 

Just a sad state of affairs is all and you aren't the only one who does this. Eventually the knowledge will come with a price tag which right now no one appreciates or is willing to even give vendors who help out a shot at selling them products. If they can save $5 then screw the knowledgeable vendor because I'm saving $5.

 

/rant

I hear ya. I have heard about both setups before. I was leaning towards coilovers and now I am not, thanks to the knowledgeable people who responded to my post, and I appreciate it. Just because you respond, does not mean I am obligated to buy from you. It means you are helping other people who look up the same thing also. You are expanding peoples knowledge about suspension setups and we are grateful for it. If the difference is actually $5 sign me up then.. I have not ever actually gone to a "bargain basement" site until looking into it now, because I am tired of spending TONS of money on this stuff. I am in deep man. And it seems someone without insurance will crash into it and total it, leaving me with only the value of the car and not the performance parts or engine build. Because that is what happens to me. So sorry if I don't spend over 1k on your shocks and springs. I generally purchase through my performance shop or a vendor on here.. like I said. I can cheap out here and there if I please. It's my money. Again, I appreciate your assistance.

Front LSD:lol: