famaya26 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Dimensions provided by Koni M12 x 1.5 x 25mm Grade 8 Searching online and Oreily seems to have them but special order. found a bolt that works but its only a temp fix. Will go to Oreily and see if i can get two from them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Send an email with the linked form below. The guy who will respond to you, Michael I think, will give you a phone number for a guy who can help you with replacement hardware. I just called, gave the guy the shock part number and told him I needed washer and a bolt to replace a stripped hex head. Had it within 3 days at no charge. http://konimarket.com/pages/contact GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Send an email with the linked form below. The guy who will respond to you, Michael I think, will give you a phone number for a guy who can help you with replacement hardware. I just called, gave the guy the shock part number and told him I needed washer and a bolt to replace a stripped hex head. Had it within 3 days at no charge. http://konimarket.com/pages/contact Thanks man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 What strut mounts would be the best for the koni struts? Will spec B mounts work on these or would you have to go oem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 You can use SpecB front top hats. But you must "fab" a spacer. The Konis are designed to be used with LGT OEM top hats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 (edited) Does anyone know if these koni strut extenders apply to the legacys? http://www.tougetuning.com/store/tic-drex-koni-strut-extenders-p-614.html Edited December 4, 2013 by Yfarmeaahka Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Do not apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lgt-Hawj Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Will these also work with the koni set up as I already bought these and finally saw this post. Seems everyone else is using epic springs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 8, 2013 Moderators Share Posted December 8, 2013 Will these also work with the koni set up as I already bought these and finally saw this post. Seems everyone else is using epic springs... What are you referring to? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 I believe he was referring to the Tein H tech springs from his title. Those springs will work but I believe will have a little less drop than the epic springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted December 9, 2013 I Donated Share Posted December 9, 2013 H tech are lower than epics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 H tech are lower than epics I'll be able to tell you for certain in a week or so. My Epics are getting loaded onto Bilsteins as we speak. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Epics are a 1" front and .8" rear. Tein claims the H techs only drop .9" front and rear, S techs drop 1.54" front and 1.46"rear. I havent seen any in person but it sounds like H techs would be close to the epics but dont help out the saggy butt issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 FWIW, I heard my son telling a buddy about the differences in my two Legacy's. He said, he doesn't enjoy driving the Spec with the stock suspension on it as much as he enjoys the wagon with the Koni's and Epic's. He said, in the Spec, "its hard to feel where the tires are". After I heard that, I said, yes, that's the difference, I just couldn't put into words. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Green Monkey Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) I just installed Koni's, Epics, and the Whiteline top hats in the front of my 07 LGT wagon (already had Whiteline sway bar and Moog endlinks on it) and while test driving it and driving it home from my mechanic's place (about a mile), it made all manner of loud chunks and thunks and springs and sproings and just general loudness--nothing like what I imagine the widely reported squeaking problem seems to be. Like the springs themselves, we're pretty unsettled by all of it. Or is this alarming degree of bonging and boinging normal? We didn't have time to do the rears today, but tomorrow morning we're doing Koni's and Epics in the rear (already have the WL sway, AVO RSB mount, and Moog endlinks back there), but my mechanic and I feel like there's no way that the fronts should be clunking and thunking this much, so we're reluctant about making things even worse by tackling the rear before we get the front sorted out. We can't find anything that seems loose, upside down, backwards, out of tolerance, etc., and we're pretty much stumped. Might something somewhere need a jerry-rigged spacer or something? Any ideas, advice, reassurance, recommendations, etc.? Edited January 23, 2014 by The Green Monkey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 24, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 24, 2014 No reassurance for you, sorry--something sounds wrong. Was everything installed correctly into the housings? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Were the upper perches installed with the two drain holes pointed toward the outside of the car (step 16)? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Green Monkey Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 No reassurance for you, sorry--something sounds wrong. Was everything installed correctly into the housings? As far as I know. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary or like we were just plodding forward without everything making sense. He and I both read over the walkthrough on page one several times in advance of the install... Were the upper perches installed with the two drain holes pointed toward the outside of the car (step 16)? I can't say with 100% certainty that they are--I'll be sure to double check that first thing in the morning though. I've been poking around here and on several other Subie sites (and general internetting) and it seems like a common initial diagnosis/recommendation is to lube up the swaybar bushings, but the noises definitely felt spring-related, not swaybar-y, and I'm pretty confident that isn't it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 The orientation of the upper perch is critical; the spring will not be seated evenly if it is installed wrong. Let us know the outcome, and take some pics to share in case the problem persists. Good luck! The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 24, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 24, 2014 Also, just so I'm following--you didn't install a new front sway bar, did you? Or did you uninstall / reinstall the existing one? Either way, it's possible to install a front swap bar backwards which will make some noise. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Backwards front sway bar will hit the steering tie rods. I am with Rick. Sounds like the upper seat is not correctly oriented and the springs are moving. That or the top hat nut is loose and the springs are moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Green Monkey Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 The swaybars have been installed for ~6 months and I'm familiar with the squawky noise they occasionally make when shifting laterally, and that's not what this is. I didn't mess with the sways at all today--just provided that info for context. Thanks guys--I'll make sure to check both of those possibilities first thing. The upper seat seems more likely to me than the top hat nuts both being loose, but who knows... If the upper seat is properly oriented and the nuts seem secure, might it be an issue requiring a spacer somewhere in the mix similar to when the Spec B top hats are used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 There should be a conical spacer in between the upper perch and top hat (step 17). If that is missing then noises and difficult steering would probably result. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Green Monkey Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 The conical spacers are both installed correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Check to make sure the water drain holes (2 on each upper perch in the front) are pointing towards the knuckle (strut clevis) and the outside of the car. If not, the spring can not "lock" in place and will spin/bind with turns and clank over bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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