'95 won't start

A couple weeks ago I noticed my car was running sluggishly especially going up hills, and would only seem to get going at a narrow range of RPM. I figured it was missing so I replaced both the plugs and the wires, but the problem persisted and eventually it refused to start (still turns over but doesn't sound like it wants to "catch"). I then figured it was a bad tank of gas or some water in the lines as it had been sitting for a couple weeks with <1/4 tank before i filled it up (ran fine for about an hour then it started to hesitate as stated before). I dumped half a bottle of Heet into the tank, but as the car is not running it hasn't gotten into the lines. I have since checked the fuel filter and the fuel pump and both seem to be good.

 

The car will run when sprayed with starting fluid, but not long enough for the Heet to get into the lines and i dont want to keep spraying it in as I know it is not the greatest for your engine. My next thought is to fill a spray bottle with gas and use that instead to get the car running long enough to get the Heet through the lines, but i wanted to check and see if there was something I was missing or didn't know about that could be wrong.

EDIT: bonus question, it leaks a bit of gas when i fill the tank up all the way, not sure where exactly it is coming from but it is at the back of the car.

I wonder if your fuel pump is going out.

The fuel pump was replaced about 5 years ago when I purchased the car. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but I disconnected the fuel filter and put the inlet hose into a bottle and it seems to put out a decent amount of fuel when I turn the key to 'on'.

check you timing belt.

it sounds as if it has jumped time.

when was it last changed?

 

 

probably not the fuel pump or bad gas.

 

the gas leak is probably a rusted filler neck.

do you have a CEL, Check Engine Light????????

 

 

95 ej22 .

auto trans ?

manual trans?

miles?

recent service?

major repairs?

service history?

AWD?

color?

I'm almost positive there is some water in the tank, when i tested the fuel pump I let the gas sit in the bottle for a day and I can clearly see the water separated out.

 

~139K mi.

4EAT

Timing belt was replaced at the end of this summer when I got head gaskets and just about every other leaking gasket replaced.

CEL is on and has been going on and off since i got the car, but I haven't bothered to clear it or scan it as it has run pretty much flawlessly up until now. I ordered one of those bluetooth scanners which should be here tomorrow, and I will see about the codes it has been throwing.

 

I got it running for a short amount of time today spraying gas instead of starter fluid, eventually without spraying gas in the intake. But I'm thinking there is a significant amount of water in the tank as it was sitting for 2 weeks at close to empty and it doesn't want to run for more than about 15 sec. I'm going to try to top it off with some fresh gas and dump half a bottle of Iso-Heet in with it and maybe some octane booster and see how it goes.

I think i have it figured out. I pulled the fuel pump assembly this afternoon and it looks like there is some sediment or something in the tank that it plugging the bag filter on the fuel pump. I'm guessing this means the tank needs to be drained and cleaned but I am unsure how to go about it because I don't have the tools, so is there an easier was to go about it or should i just take it to a shop and have the tank drained and cleaned?

I say fuel pump. I had similar symptoms recently. You said you replaced the fuel pump 5 years ago. My prior fuel pump lasted 3 years.

Your clues are obvious. You sprayed starting fluid and it started. You sprayed gas and it started. Both times that was the substitute for a fuel pump.

I serviced gas pumps a long time ago. The filters in the pumps have a check ball that will dislodge in the presence of water, stopping the flow. The water in the tank is possible, (anything is possible), But very unlikely.

It will run for about 30 seconds before it dies now, but maybe the fuel pump just isn't putting out enough pressure. Here is a few pictures i took just for reference http://imgur.com/a/DWrzB

 

EDIT:

Pictures are:

After filter bag cleaning

Before

Inside of the tank

If you decide to replace it, And have a choice, Get a Delphi fuel pump. The cheapies don't seem to last me too long. I'll likely have to do it again in another 3 years. Get a new filter bag at the same time. Might as well do the fuel filter too, they're about $15-20 each. Too bad that when they die you aren't in the best position to shop around.

I've had good luck with my Walbro 255lph in my SS and it was $100 including the install kit (Walbro GSS341-400-791): [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EPQM10/?tag=viglink20901-20]Amazon.com: Walbro GSS341-400-791 With Install Kit Fuel Pumps: Automotive[/ame]

 

It's max output is more than you need for NA applications but it still would work great in your car.

that sounds like while the car sits the lack of suction lets the crap on the pump strainer settle back into the tank, you turn the key to on and the pump kicks on and picks that stuff back up and before long it cant flow enough to run the engine.

if that is the case you are gonna have to have the tank cleaned out, there are a couple ways to do it, having a shop do it will cost you $$$ to have it removed from the car and cleaned.

if you have a buddy that knows how or has the tools you can save a lot of money by draining it, pulling it out and using a fuel tank coating to keep any crap that is still stuck in there from being kicked up again a lot of guys have this problem on their luvs and have to coat their tanks to keep crud from breaking loose and clogging filters and the pumps

That was my exact thought, I plan on draining it and cleaning it as best as I can with it still in the car.

Update: I have cleaned the tank as best as i can, and replaced the fuel filter, it will start, but it takes a few cranks more than usual and it dies after about 30 seconds. I'm not quite sure if my fuel pump is getting weak and not providing enough pressure or if it is something else, fuel pressure regulator maybe?

 

Edit: While poking around the engine bay I noticed a vacuum line that was off, but there was only one place it could go to but that place had a blue vacuum line that was added at some point. This blue line went from the bottom of the throttle body and tee'd into what I assume is one of the main lines. I'll put a picture up when I get the chance.

In post #3 it states you tested it by disconnecting the fuel hose at the filter and fuel came out. That is not how a fuel pump is tested.

A failing, (note-not failed), may still pump fuel, but not supply enough pressure to keep a fuel injected car running properly. It must me able to supply the fuel at a fairly high pressure.

Now, I'm going to get some General Tsos Chicken dammit.

That was one of my thoughts, but I wasn't entirely sure if a fuel pump could just get weak, as i have only heard of them outright failing. Thanks for clarifying though.

Mine recently did exactly that. Ran poorly for months prior. Very hard to diagnose when you rule it out, simply because it is providing some flow.

ya, ive had pumps that seem good but arent pushing over 10psi, not good enough to start the vehicle.

I replaced the pump and the car will stay running! It is running rough so i scanned the codes and got a bunch; P0136, P0201, P0301, and P0400.

 

Looks like injector 1 is bad and possibly the O2 sensor and EGR valve/passage clogged, but I'm not sure if any of these things are connected, so if someone could shed some light on this it would be great.

Check the resistance across the pins on the injector and see if they are within FSM specs. The should be within 11-12 ohms. Here is how to remove them if need be: http://www.witchhunter.com/subieremoval1.php

 

Sometimes fixing one issue will clear the other codes. I'd check the misfire code by first moving the plug wire to another spark plug and see if the code follows, and if so the plug wire is bad. Also put a long screwdriver on the "faulty" injector and make sure you hear it clicking. You can also swap the injector to another site and see if the code follows to the other cylinder.