DIY Starter Repair. How-to: Remove, Disassemble, Grease, Reinstall (w/pics)

I repaired my starter a few days ago, following the procedures in this thread and from the FSM.

I have done 4 starts since then at around 20*F, with no start up screeching or squealing. I am still amazed at how much the starter squeal sounded just like a belt squeal.

 

I left the intercooler in place, and did the removal process from under the car. You can't see the top bolt from that position, but it is very easy to find by feel.

 

After removing the starter from the car, I removed the solenoid from the starter. This allowed me to clean and lube the plunger and lever, and also gave me much better access to the starter shaft.

 

There is a warning in the FSM about not cleaning the overrun clutch with solvents or oil, so I just wiped it with a rag. There is no mention in the FSM about packing the front needle bearing with lube, so I left it as is.

 

I applied lube (Nye Rheolube 380) to the helical spline, the center of the shaft (where the clutch and gear slides), the nose of the shaft, and the washers that contact the solenoid lever. I used the same lube on the metal planetary gears after cleaning them. Interesting to see that the the ring gear is made of plastic.

 

Ater re-assembling the starter, and before putting it back on the car, I hooked it up to a 12V battery for a no-load test. The starter was surprisingly quiet.

 

The lube I used is a "lithium soap thickened synthetic hydrocarbon (PAO)/ester grease base that is fortified with various additives". It is a specialty lube, intended for starter motors and power tools. It was expensive ($35) and only time will tell if it was worth the extra expense. It looked to me like Denso used 2 different greases in the starter motor when they built it.

 

It's been 3 years since I last lubed the starter, and I am now getting the "cold start screeching" again. It has not been super cold in the mornings, perhaps around 45 degF. Time for more lube.

mmh. so you used a 'fancy' lube and yet, it started screeching again after three years..

 

I just regreased mine too. I did take the whole thing apart though. Don't know if that will make a difference.

I actually enjoyed taking mine all the way down to the constituent parts. Interesting to see how these are put together, and it made clearing/cleaning all the parts really easy. Assembly was a snap.

Exactly. That's why I went that route. I simply followed the FSM instructions. Not too bad really. And it was DIRTY in there!

mmh. so you used a 'fancy' lube and yet, it started screeching again after three years..

 

I just regreased mine too. I did take the whole thing apart though. Don't know if that will make a difference.

 

To do a really thorough lube job, I think it may be necessary to remove the gear/clutch assembly from the shaft. I did not do that 3 years ago. The risk was greater than the reward. The R&R requires a press, and a new retention ring. I had neither 3 years ago. I would be surprised if the retention ring is even available from the parts dept.

 

I am going to do a partial tear down again, as the last time, and if the starter screeches again 3 years from now, I will get a rebuilt starter ($250?) from the dealer. Hopefully the new rebuild from Denso will have improved, low friction internal parts that do not require periodic lubrication.

Just put the starter back. wow, it sounds so quiet and smooth. Will go ahead and re-grease the 05 starter probably tonight.

Mine is also quiet again, after a new application of grease. There was still some grease on the shaft and spiral splines from my last application, which makes me wonder if the return spring (inside the solenoid) has become too weak to pull the pinion gear off the ring gear. A new solenoid seems to be no longer available from the dealer parts dept. And the one shown at Rock Auto is completely wrong.

 

I did get a CEL immediately after reinstalling the starter and reconnecting the battery. The DTCs were related to TGV function, but my engine ran fine. Cleared the codes, and no problems since then. Wacky electrons!

Edited October 15, 2017 by outahere

Here is some info from Denso about how they rebuild starter motors.

 

http://densoautoparts.com/starters

Wouldn't it be easier just to buy a new starter assembly from RockAuto and just replace?

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2008,legacy,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1440457,electrical,starter+motor,4152

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7946208&cc=1440457&jsn=495

 

At almost 150K, my starter was making a grinding noise so I bought a remanufactured one and installed it. Though not as bad as the old starter, the new starter was also making a grinding noise. Feeling disappointed I searched online and found this thread. I followed the instruction, took the starter apart, cleaned and applied new grease, put it back together and reinstalled and the grind is all gone. Success!! Thank you! I returned the old starter and saved myself a hundred bucks.

↑ so you're saying you're ready to become a paying member

My starter screeched like a banshee this morning, at 42F. I lubed it a year ago, and 3 years before that. Checked on a rebuilt (by Denso) starter, and they are $198. They are on national back order, with no ETA.

My starter screeched like a banshee this morning, at 42F. I lubed it a year ago, and 3 years before that. Checked on a rebuilt (by Denso) starter, and they are $198. They are on national back order, with no ETA.

 

NAPA has a starter, don't get hung up on a brand in this case.

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=starter&referer=herofitmentForm-newveh

 

The re-man starter I had put in back about Feb 2013 is going well.

I put in a reman a couple of years ago after my re-lubed OEM starter died completely (contacts/solenoid). Needed to get to work the next day so I went with "anything available locally that night." Managed to locate a reman at Auto Zone (Carquest brand maybe?) and it has been fine for 2-3 years.

I received a Denso rebuilt starter (#280-0365) yesterday from Rockauto. Price, with shipping, was $105 (does not include core charge of $68). On the package it states "Made in the USA".

I found that reaching the bottom bolt was virtually impossible from above.

 

I did the starter R&R from under the car the previous 2 times. This time, to install a new rebuilt starter, I did it all from the top. No crawling under the car. I was able to loosen and torque the bottom bolt using my long handled 1/2"-drive ratchet wrench (and torque wrench), along with a 5 inch extension and a short 6pt socket. A 6 inch or 4 inch extension did not work for me.

I recently replaced the starters on my two 4th gen 3.0Rs. The 3.0R starters have a different part #s than the LGT, so I attached the starter part list. I also was lucky enough to find qty 2 of the correct starter for like $20 ea shipped on Ebay. Pics attached.http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c169e10c014f/starters.pdf Edited December 16, 2018 by Dispatch20

Ended up doing the same for my 05 LGT and wife's 07 Tribeca with H3.0. Both were cleared and lubed couple of years ago but their time has come. Both were sticking and not cranking without being kicked, and it got old after couple of times with each.

So I did this yesterday evening but haven't reinstalled yet. I only had red tacky grease. Should I go buy a different grease and re-do this or will I be alright?

What are the specs on that grease? I did this two years ago and used parktool grease (for mtb) cause that's all I had around . It's been fine so far.

 

 

https://www.parktool.com/product/polylube-1000-lubricant-tube-ppl-1

What are the specs on that grease? I did this two years ago and used parktool grease (for mtb) cause that's all I had around . It's been fine so far.

 

 

https://www.parktool.com/product/polylube-1000-lubricant-tube-ppl-1

Here it is.

 

https://www.crcindustries.com/products/driller-red-grease-extreme-pressure-lithium-complex-grease-14-wt-oz-SL3640.html

So I did this yesterday evening but haven't reinstalled yet. I only had red tacky grease. Should I go buy a different grease and re-do this or will I be alright?

Here it is.

 

https://www.crcindustries.com/products/driller-red-grease-extreme-pressure-lithium-complex-grease-14-wt-oz-SL3640.html

I installed and all is well so far. Time will tell. I am going to pick up some new grease for my original starter (with 210K) and rebuild with new parts if I can source them.

sorry. never replied. Your grease looks like it should work just fine.

CRC SL3640 product data sheet IC you missed it:

 

http://api.crcindustries.com/auto-services/get-pds/SL3640

Had a couple of non pull backs today, and the car wouldn't start for the brief moment. So I just did it this evening, only the relube the shaft part though. No time for full surgery today. I used a spray dry silicone grease and moved it back and forth, it runs so much smoother now.

 

The bottom bolt was super tight, but very simple to access from underneath with my impact gun and a swivel joint.

It's been almost 4 years, but I now have that starter (from post 89) back in the car. Works great.