BigTDogg MA Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Can I relieve fuel pressure by turning off the pump with RomRaider and cranking the car? Or do I have to find and pull the fuel pump relay/fuse? Nevermind, fuse is insanely easy to access. please delete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Naaa, not letting this one get by....LOL Come on now, how long have you been here and didn't realize how easy it was to do that. I thought you had a better idea on how to work on these cars. I hope you don't pull the negitive battery cable for everything you do like the service manual tells you to... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 I don't pull the negative battery terminal, no Reason I asked is because on the Z you have to remove the driver kick panel to get to the FP relay. Where in Nistune (Z equiv of RR), you can turn the pump on or off and relieve fuel pressure by clicking a button. After having looked in the manual, and the engine bay, and seeing how easy it was to find that 15A fuse, I feel like a toolshed. However, since this is still open, I do have a question about removing my AVCS solenoid. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1943328&postcount=8 I need to pull that guy out. Because I need to change the plastic thing next to the blue connector. It's PN 16624-AA020, and mine has failed. Subaru doesn't sell the part anymore, so I bought a used one in good condition from member Money. To get a 22mm crow's foot on it, I need to remove the hose he highlited above, and the AVCS. So if I take that 10mm bolt off, then massage the unit out I should be OK right? Will oil start gushing out of that opening? And is there any value in cleaning it with WD-40 like PhilT suggests in the post above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I can't view the picture here at work. All the oil should be back in the oil pan. Very little stays up in the engine when the pumps not pumping. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 I would think oil pressure, unlike fuel pressure, dies when the engine is off. Just wanted to be sure. The pic shows the DS AVCS solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I just did a search in the 05 manual and found some info on page 2210. THat may or may not help you. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Yeah, that's for diagnosing the AVCS DTC, which I don't have (knocks on wood). I actually need to remove the "oil flow control solenoid valve", which is held in by a single 10mm bolt. I'm just curious if I should bother cleaning it when I haven't had any known issues yet (143K miles though). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you have it out for some reason, spray it with Carb cleaner before you put it back in. Be careful not to dry out the seal. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 I'm probably not going to spray it with anything. If I ever need to clean it it's easy enough to remove in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Looked clean, left it as is. Couldn't get the dampener off, **** this car in the ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Do you mean the crank shaft pulley ? Put a 21mm socket on a long 1/2 breaker bar and may be a piece of pipe and rest it on the ground. Bump the starter over quickly. I put a board behind the radiator just in case. I put a picture of the set up in the timng belt thread years back. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Nope, I mean the picture you couldn't see at work http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e194/PhilTGT/DSC00487.jpg The plastic thing between the injectors. (ignore the paint circles around the AVCS solenoid, borrowed the pic) I'm trying to determine it's function, as it's called out as a Pulsation Dampener, and only referenced once in the manual. Mine is leaking, and I can't get it off the rail with my 22mm crow's foot. Really don't want to pull rails to get this pig replaced. Worse yet, I don't even know if I need it. If it's truly a pulsation dampener, then I'd think it's redundant and not necessary. If it's intended to be some kind of vacuum break, then I could be in trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 I know it's an old thread, but OP did you eventually get the damper out? Did it give you any misfire or was it just leaking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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