How many miles on your CVT? Any Issues?

I also did the drain and fill. One time driving the slipping happened for few times. I thougt - that is it.. Will need to change the CVT. But since than some few thousand km it's all ok. Have the old oil in bottle and will send it to lab. The old oil is 150k km.

 

 

Would you be sending it to Blackstone? Would love to see the numbers and compare them to mine. My CVT fluid had around 81K miles on it.

Edited July 10, 2015 by mhoran89
typo

I am having stalling issues with my 2011 Legacy 2.5i Premium with a CVT. I am currently at 130k miles, but the problem started around 120k. It is not constant and seems to come and go, and when I took it to the dealer, they advised on replacing the torque limiter - I think he gave me a price around $1500. I can't really remember, under $2000 anyways. I haven't done anything yet because I don't trust the dealership I went to, but after reading these forums it seems that there are a number of people experiencing these problems at 110k+ mileage. Seems to me that Subaru should definitely be covering (at least partially) the cost since there was a bulletin about what seems to be this exact issue. Has anyone had any luck contacting and receiving payment from Subaru for this?

I assume you mean the torque converter needs to be replaced:

 

I did get subaru to pay a portion.

 

call them prior to the work being done. 1-800-subaru 3

 

 

“Service Bulletin # 16-90-13 Design Change to Lock-Up Type Torque Converter Torque Converter Bulletin Description: This bulletin announces the availability of a countermeasure torque converter assembly to address a customer concern of very low engine RPM when coming to a stop. The condition is similar to coming to a stop in a manual transmission equipped vehicle without depressing the clutch pedal. Thrust washer wear inside the torque converter torque converter can cause restriction of the oil passage used to bleed off lock-up clutch application pressure. The result is either a delayed (momentary low engine rpm) or no lock-up pressure release. The thrust washer has been changed from a solid bushing-type to a needle bearing type.”

I have seen in the past, with my Honda vehicles, that when an issue exists and enough people complain the manufacturer will put an extended warranty in place for the affected component.

I assume you mean the torque converter needs to be replaced:

 

 

Yes that is what I meant, sorry - and thank you for the reply. I wonder if this is something that will eventually get recalled after more legacys get higher mileages, if they see a lot of these issues.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I assume you mean the torque converter needs to be replaced:

 

I did get subaru to pay a portion.

 

call them prior to the work being done. 1-800-subaru 3

 

 

“Service Bulletin # 16-90-13 Design Change to Lock-Up Type Torque Converter Torque Converter Bulletin Description: This bulletin announces the availability of a countermeasure torque converter assembly to address a customer concern of very low engine RPM when coming to a stop. The condition is similar to coming to a stop in a manual transmission equipped vehicle without depressing the clutch pedal. Thrust washer wear inside the torque converter torque converter can cause restriction of the oil passage used to bleed off lock-up clutch application pressure. The result is either a delayed (momentary low engine rpm) or no lock-up pressure release. The thrust washer has been changed from a solid bushing-type to a needle bearing type.”

 

Hey I just read this and I am wondering if that is maybe my issue... My car stutters especially in traffic. It's like a early clutch release on a manual transmission, that jerk feeling... I read something about a valve issue for people with similar symptoms. Is there a sure way to tell? Also, how much did that service cost you? (The one the dealer paid half of)

I think I am starting to get the very early stages of this torque converter issue at 54,000 miles.

I am looking to bring my car into the dealer next week for the first oil consumption test, just to document it with Subaru. I am about 1 qt every 2200 miles, but it has increased unfortunately and I am close to ending the factory warranty.

 

I am also looking to get a CVT oil change/flush. I will send the oil for analysis. 1 sample of clean oil and 1 sample of used oil, for the best comparison.

 

QUESTION: The dealer said the CVT oil flush is about 2 hours labor, PLUS 1-2 hours additional for a tech to drive the car and "re-program/re-learn" the CVT??? Can anyone shed any light on this? It makes no sense to me and I would like to ask the dealer to show me this procedure documented from Subaru.

 

thanks

Tristan

I paid $330.00 for my CVT fluid change at the dealer. They do not have to drive the car for 1 - 2 hours after the procedure. Many of these service writers don't have a clue. Talk to the service manager. If feeds you the same load of crap find another dealer.

damn, aren't there any good shops for subarus in your area? the place i go only works on subarus, they definitely know what they're doing. a CVT fluid change is only $150.

I think I am starting to get the very early stages of this torque converter issue at 54,000 miles.

I am looking to bring my car into the dealer next week for the first oil consumption test, just to document it with Subaru. I am about 1 qt every 2200 miles, but it has increased unfortunately and I am close to ending the factory warranty.

 

I am also looking to get a CVT oil change/flush. I will send the oil for analysis. 1 sample of clean oil and 1 sample of used oil, for the best comparison.

 

QUESTION: The dealer said the CVT oil flush is about 2 hours labor, PLUS 1-2 hours additional for a tech to drive the car and "re-program/re-learn" the CVT??? Can anyone shed any light on this? It makes no sense to me and I would like to ask the dealer to show me this procedure documented from Subaru.

 

thanks

Tristan

 

I recently did my CVT fluid and it is about 2 hours, but there was no addition for driving the car. And there is no "re-program/re-learn". Run away from that dealer. Sounds like a scammer.

There is merit in resetting the TCU and doing a test drive, but they are not required. A dealer may opt to only perform the service contingent on these two procedures as a business decision to cover themselves.

I have a slight clacking / grinding noise when idling or accelerating. The noise goes away after > 2000RPMS.

 

I'm at 35k, should this be a worrisome issue?

 

The car in general is louder (I'm the legacy, my father got the same year Outback) than the outback, I'm finding that possibly worrisome.

I have a slight clacking / grinding noise when idling or accelerating. The noise goes away after > 2000RPMS.

 

 

If it is a rattling noise check this thread:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228745

 

Otherwise, I have not really experienced anything like that and I am at 130k miles.

Edited July 28, 2015 by tantolic

I just pulled a oil sample of the CVT oil, purchased 1 qt of CVTF-II oil for $14.50 from the dealer, and replenished with the oil that was taken out for the sample. I also took a fresh oil sample from the qt bottle, so I will be sending in both samples. 54,000 miles

As you can see from the photos, the used oil looks quite dirty. Like used engine oil. It smells much different too. Not burned, but again, like used engine oil.

More than likely I will change the CVT oil based either way, but I am curious what the results show. I will post the reports when I get them.

Cost from dealer to change the oil: 7 qts of oil @$14.50/qt and 1 hour labor @$100 so a little over $200.

I think it will be worth it.

Wow, that looks "dirty", like internal combustion dirty.

All,

 

Please see attached CVT Oil Samples. One is clean oil, the other is the used oil with 54,000 miles (first time inspecting it)

 

I can call the lab to discuss with them, but I wanted to post here first. Is there anyone here that fully understands the details of this report, and could give some feedback?

Other than higher ppm of Fe, Si and visible iron debris under microscope, the V100 viscosity isn't far from the clean oil sample. I am not sure what the "CVT oil spec" is for V100, as I wasn't able to find a spec sheet on the oil online.

 

While I don't think the used oil is terrible or concerning, I think I may still change it now at 54,000 miles. Especially for about $200-250 at the dealer.

 

Does anyone see any downside to me changing the oil now?

 

thoughts/comments/opinions?

 

I would really love to get input on the technical details of the 2 samples please.

thanks

 

Tristan

1 upload clean CVT 2107868_SUBARU_CVTOIL#SUBARU_CVTOIL_B370-45211-0001_NAR.pdf

1 upload used CVT 2107868_2013_SUBARU_LEGACY#2013_SUBARU_LEGACY_B370-45211-0051_MC.pdf

No downside that I can think of other than the expense. What lab is this? Typically we here in the community use Blackstone, I am used to their reports showing a bit different, as well as more commentary around the findings. They will typically also write a recommendation based on findings, such as "extend the change interval to XYZ miles", that sort of thing.

Based on the report, it looks like there is no apparent indication that the fluid needs to be changed now, and can go for another 30K miles based on their commentary. Nice!

 

They talk about debris existing in the system and address the filter. That's interesting. Not sure what to make of it. It could very well be that this may be the issue that is causing some problems with that one clogged passage which is causing some gen 1 CVTs to not unlock at idle and stall out the engine.

I am not sure if the CVT unit has a filter. If it does, I do not understand why the debris they noted is suspended in the fluid. This probably gives you a good reason to do a fluid change now.

 

I think it's starting to become obvious that there are no ill effects to running the fluid up to 100K miles, barring towing or other types of driving that would put a lot of load on the transmission.

Thanks for sharing and adding to the knowledge base.

Edited July 31, 2015 by fishbone

fishbone,

 

I used a local Caterpillar dealer, so it is a CAT certified Oil lab. This was whited-out when I whited out my personal info etc. I was not trying to hide the name of the lab. I have done several engine oil samples with the same lab and the results also look a little different with the engine oil. I think they use this style report for transmission oil only.

Based on the dirty color to the used oil, and the iron particles (under microscope) I think I may change it for piece of mind. I would like to hear more from others before I do so, though

thanks for the input. It was my pleasure to share this info with everyone and I look forward to feedback from the others in this forum!

It was just an observation, no critique at all over the fact that you did not use Blackstone Labs. There are many other competent places and I'm sure the one you used is top notch.

As far as fluid color, keep in mind that color is not necessarily an indication of fluid condition. My engine oil gets dark pretty quick long, long before it needs to be changed. Just a thought.

Changing the CVT fluid now still has merit. If I were you, I would probably do the same. I am at 73K miles and just about the only reason I haven't done it already is scheduling conflicts. I plan on getting it done within the next few months myself.

Hi Folks,

 

My wife drives a 2010 with 189,600mi, I'm trying to best help her with a problem. It has for me once, when driving it after she said it had a problem, felt like it was trying to be in two gears at once. This is the "6 speed" CVT with manual shift paddles, so <i>that's</i> not happening.

 

It has codes P0700 and P2764. Indications are the CVT control valve body needs to be replaced.

 

A) Is there any way around this? Or is that the ball game?

 

B) If not, can anyone say for sure if this:

 

http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy25L-CVT-4WDSedan/BODY-ASSEMBLY-CONTROL-VALVE/49241938/31706AA033.html

 

Is the part entire?

 

I do a lot of work on my personal vehicle*, and am trying to gauge the plausibility of doing this myself vs it tearing up <b>really</b> bad before I can get to it.

 

Thank you for your time.

 

*2003 Trailblazer as of this writing. I'll take a stab at anything short of an engine/tran change at this point. Wondering how much lighter the Legacy tran is. Hmmm...

Hi Folks,

 

My wife drives a 2010 with 189,600mi, I'm trying to best help her with a problem. It has for me once, when driving it after she said it had a problem, felt like it was trying to be in two gears at once. This is the "6 speed" CVT with manual shift paddles, so <i>that's</i> not happening.

 

It has codes P0700 and P2764. Indications are the CVT control valve body needs to be replaced.

 

A) Is there any way around this? Or is that the ball game?

 

B) If not, can anyone say for sure if this:

 

http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy25L-CVT-4WDSedan/BODY-ASSEMBLY-CONTROL-VALVE/49241938/31706AA033.html

 

Is the part entire?

 

I do a lot of work on my personal vehicle*, and am trying to gauge the plausibility of doing this myself vs it tearing up <b>really</b> bad before I can get to it.

 

Thank you for your time.

 

*2003 Trailblazer as of this writing. I'll take a stab at anything short of an engine/tran change at this point. Wondering how much lighter the Legacy tran is. Hmmm...

 

Has the fluid been changed? I would probably try changing the fluid and doing a transmission flush as Hail Mary attempt to fixing it. I don't have any experience with CVT repair but I have seen this Hail Mary approach work with other cars transmissions. If it was a typical auto transmission, I would probably try cleaning out the valve body assemble. (Removing each passage assembly individually and do them one at a time.)

I will try a fluid change.

Hi Folks,

 

My wife drives a 2010 with 189,600mi, I'm trying to best help her with a problem. It has for me once, when driving it after she said it had a problem, felt like it was trying to be in two gears at once. This is the "6 speed" CVT with manual shift paddles, so <i>that's</i> not happening.

 

 

Wow! 189k miles is pretty good on this car ... let alone the CVT.

 

I would definitely go the route of a fluid change - definitely cheaper than replacing the tranny. I'm impressed to see the CVT go with that kind of mileage - pretty impressing to me.

I agree, a fluid change might just take care of it. There's a lot of possibilities at play here. It could be a failed solenoid, making it an electrical issue which a fluid change won't take care of. Or it could be build-up that may clear up. However, the CVT should not generate any meaningful amount of debris to become suspended in the fluid since it doesn't have a bunch of wearable clutches like on a traditional transmission.

 

The part you link to seems to be correct, however given the price, you could actually source out an entire transmission for not much more. Look at http://www.car-part.com and whatever you do, for the love of God don't let SOA sell you a new transmission to the tune of 5 thousand dollars. There should be plenty used ones on the market for a fraction of that price, with a warranty included. I would definitely look to that route because you would be getting the whole thing with potentially less miles/wear on it.

Edited August 24, 2015 by fishbone

So I did a random search for a 2010 Legacy CVT, in my neck of the woods Texas I am getting a TON of results for under $2000 with less that 50K miles on them, grade A with warranty from the recycler, and willing to ship anywhere in the US.