kd5zmg Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Ok, getting ready to install the pulley, but I was hoping I could stop the spinning of the crank with a screwdriver towards the rear of the motor on the passenger side. There is a hole by the ecu cables I saw you put a screwdriver in and that is suppose to stop the crank from moving. It's not working... Can anyone tell me if that is what I am suppose to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 27, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 27, 2011 HUH??? I have never heard that....lol you can do the old starter bump trick to break it loose -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 just pull the harness plug that goes to the coil pack, put a 2 foot breaker bar with a craftsman or impact socket on it and lay it on the ground, put the key in the ignition and just tap it quickly. it will break it loose the first try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 one of the threads in the link will explain some. but mostly it is for the auto trans cars. the same will work for the 5 speed trans but you need to use threaded bolts in stead of screwdrivers. (apparently the holes are already thread.) http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd191/boostedbug/Subaru%20conversion/valance019.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 This is what I was thinking... I saw a youtube video where you can put a screwdriver in the hole... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmF9Zuw-mwY]How to install COBB TUNED lightweight Crankshaft pulley 98 subaru legacy - YouTube[/ame] At 2:30 this is where the screwdriver gets inserted. one of the threads in the link will explain some. but mostly it is for the auto trans cars. the same will work for the 5 speed trans but you need to use threaded bolts in stead of screwdrivers. (apparently the holes are already thread.) http://legacygt.com/forums/search.php?searchid=9557988 http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd191/boostedbug/Subaru%20conversion/valance019.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 I feel like my way is easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnAWD Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Someone slap the kid in that video. Please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 Ok all, so I gave it a shot and putting a flat head screw driver in the hole does hold the crank pulley from turning. I was able to torque the bolt down to 90 ft lbs without a problem. I didn't even have to remove the radiator, although would have been a lot easier to remove and install without it in place. So, success in an hour to do the pulley upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 90 ft lbs is not enough. it need to be over 125. i use 140 ft lbs. 90 ft lbs is a mis-print and will cause the bolt to loosen and the timing to jump. 125+ ft lbs. please, please, please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 cool thanks. I will do that. 125 ft lbs it will be. I actually did it to 130ft lbs as that is what it says in the FSM, but after I tightened it up, I thought, this is aluminum. Will that much torque damage the pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 nice... This in combination with the UEL Replica Header, I notice the low end tq is now peppy again... I would love to do me some cams now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Does it feel like the engine revs faster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 7, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 7, 2011 cool thanks. I will do that. 125 ft lbs it will be. I actually did it to 130ft lbs as that is what it says in the FSM, but after I tightened it up, I thought, this is aluminum. Will that much torque damage the pulley? that pulley is tougher then you think it is -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 Does it feel like the engine revs faster? Feels peepier on the low end, since I installed the header a couple of weeks ago. The header seemed like it helped on the hi end, but this pulley helps on the low end. I am going to install a LWFW in a few weeks that will probably make a difference also. that pulley is tougher then you think it is You're right, probably tougher than the stock one anyway. I didn't know there was rubber on the stock one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 130 ft-lbs is perfect. IIRC the torque on that bolt increased every year for a while. The last thing you want is pulley wobble that'll destroy the crank. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 90 ft lbs is not enough. it need to be over 125. i use 140 ft lbs. 90 ft lbs is a mis-print and will cause the bolt to loosen and the timing to jump. 125+ ft lbs. please, please, please. Crap, I tightened mine to 95 ft lbs when I did the timing belt a couple of weeks ago. The torque wrench is up at my Dad's place. Guess I better get my butt back up there soon and tighten that bolt. Any educated guesses when my pulley will loosen and fly off? Is there any way to tighten the bolt without using a chain wrench (which is what I did) to hold the pulley, wrapped in rags of course? Can I do it fairly easily w/o taking the radiator out again? Just curious. Wouldn't mind seeing the old man again though. He's a good guy. I am also curious as to the method any of you experts like to put the timing belt on. Where do you start/finish, and what idler pulleys do you put on last, etc to install. I started by aligning the belt on the crankshaft, the right camshaft pulley and went around, and then installed the no. 2 belt idler last. I am asking because if I am back in there I want to check the alignment of my belt and pulleys and don't want it to be a PITA to put it back on in case anything is out of alignment. Although the leggy is running great, I am still somewhat uncomfortable with the change in the way the engine sounds, I feel like I can hear the timing belt (higher pitched sound), it was a bit thicker than the one I took off. I have mentioned this before, but I am a freak and don't mind mentioning it again. Especially after brok replied that sometimes a higher pitched sound related to the timing belt resulted in tensioner failure a few weeks later! But it isn't any kind of sound that classic rock doesn't cover up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 did you read the first part of the thread? there are pics. do flywheels have holes in the perimeter like the flex plate?? anyone have one on the work bench they could snap a pic? i have never seen one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 8, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 8, 2011 No this trick doesn't work on the 5MTs (at least that I've noticed). I stick a big screw driver or pry par into the flywheel teeth if I have to. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 did you read the first part of the thread???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????/ there are pics. do flywheels have holes in the perimeter like the flex plate?? anyone have one on the work bench they could snap a pic? i have never seen one. Sorry, I can be a bonehead and was confused if it the method would work on a 5MT. I'll just use a chain wrench again since I don't have any threaded bolts, and don't know what type of bolt would work anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 has anyone even paid any attention to how I broke mine loose? or are we talking about how to tighten it back up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 how to torque to 140> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Will that much torque damage the pulley? cast aluminum, yes. specific aluminum alloys, no. I assume it is "aircraft grade" or w/e, this should not be an issue. If it were made of the same grade cast aluminum as, say the block, then this would be way too much torque and crumble Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 Here is where I put the screwdriver and I have a 5MT. I had seen my friend who is Subaru Tech at a Dealer in NM do this on our 2000 L wagon. The L Wagon was 4EAT. Anyway, I gave this a shot. It did not go in too far, but I guess far enough and I was able to crank down to 130ftlb on that crank. http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0015/92/74/15372947_large.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 ^^^Guess I'll try that first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Crap, I tightened mine to 95 ft lbs when I did the timing belt a couple of weeks ago. The torque wrench is up at my Dad's place. Guess I better get my butt back up there soon and tighten that bolt. Any educated guesses when my pulley will loosen and fly off? Is there any way to tighten the bolt without using a chain wrench (which is what I did) to hold the pulley, wrapped in rags of course? Can I do it fairly easily w/o taking the radiator out again? Just curious. Wouldn't mind seeing the old man again though. He's a good guy. I am also curious as to the method any of you experts like to put the timing belt on. Where do you start/finish, and what idler pulleys do you put on last, etc to install. I started by aligning the belt on the crankshaft, the right camshaft pulley and went around, and then installed the no. 2 belt idler last. I am asking because if I am back in there I want to check the alignment of my belt and pulleys and don't want it to be a PITA to put it back on in case anything is out of alignment. Although the leggy is running great, I am still somewhat uncomfortable with the change in the way the engine sounds, I feel like I can hear the timing belt (higher pitched sound), it was a bit thicker than the one I took off. I have mentioned this before, but I am a freak and don't mind mentioning it again. Especially after brok replied that sometimes a higher pitched sound related to the timing belt resulted in tensioner failure a few weeks later! But it isn't any kind of sound that classic rock doesn't cover up! Follow the instructions in the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.