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car pulling right when hard braking


c-lo

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When hard braking my car pulls right slightly.

 

Here's a history of whats been done recently:

 

This past summer I had to replace my passenger side front caliper.

 

Then I also just had new pads/rotors put in a few months later. when we took the passenger side caliper off to install the new pads the inside pad was significantly worn down compared to the outside.

 

 

Coincidence? I didn't notice the car pulling right on hard braking until just now. could've been doing it....not sure.

 

On a side note. while doing the pad/rotor swap we noticed that one of theseals around one of the piston rings on the driverside caliper was starting to look bad.

 

could this also be effecting the hard braking issue?

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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tire pressures no.

 

alignment is fine. runs straight and true. I'll check pressure tomorrow.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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Sticky pads, calipers & sliders can cause overheating, poor mileage and brake failure, because the pad is touching all the time. It can be caused by either piston, slider or both sticking. The lubricant between the boot & the piston seal allows the piston to retract properly, the boot protects it. Some of the cheap rebuilt calipers don't have any lubricant, so ask people about the quality of your parts. When replacing pads renew the lubricant on the sliders (inside the boot!/wipe off any on the outside) and check the slider boot(except Brembos, they don't have sliders). DO NOT USE PETROLEUM GREASE THAT WILL DEGRADE THE 'RUBBER' BOOT. Special grease is available from automotive shops in small inexpensive packets. If you are going to a track day don't put too much grease, it will expand a lot and you'll have to renew it before winter anyway.

Rust behind the antisqueal shims can cause the pad to get stuck against the rotor even if the caliper & slider are working properly.

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forgot to update. My problem went away when I rotated and had air topped off in the tires.
258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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  • 1 year later...

Another answer can be the Lower Control Arm bushings. Seen this result when they are bad.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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