My clunker has a lot of problems thread -

Just picked up a 94' SS. It has a few issues, I am clueless on these.

 

1.) Huge drop in idle when the fans kick on. Brand new battery, altenator is fine voltage stays at 12.2 on the guage when they kick in and at normal idle. It's only until the fans are up to speed does the car idle low. I'm used to the usual small drop and little bit of roughness but it seems like the car is actually going to die.

 

One good thing is the car builds boost how it should.

 

2.) Down pipe has a hole in it. I hear that a WRX down pipe will fit, next thread it won't. I can't find anything specific for a SS.

 

3.) Car gauges thinks it doesn't have oil pressure but it has plenty of oil pressure.

 

4.) Car builds boost how it should, but has something rough going on up until 4 grand or so. O2 sensor? I disconnected the MAF to see if anything changed to see if it was dead but the car instantly shut off.

 

 

That's it until I get the car back home and find its true colors.

1) Even if your alternator tests fine it can be on its way out. Mine tested fine and started to smolder while on a lift being tested for a second time. The starter contacts were very worn at the same time which can put additional load on the alternator according to the alternator shop that sold me the contacts. I would also advise you to clean your MAF or better yet replace it since they crap out. Change your plugs (use NGK VPOWERS) and wires and check for vacuum/boost leaks. Get a new fuel filter and keep an eye on the fuel pump.

 

2) A WRX DP can be made to work but you will need to extend it to get it to fit. A wrx dp is the same diameter as an SS DP. I have an OEM SS dp or a catless wrx DP if you want one. Pm me for details but probably easier to source one locally.

 

3) How do you know the oil pressure is good? The OEM oil sender will weep. It's an easy replacement ($30) if you remove the alternator. Keep in mind the oil squirters can work loose and fall which will cause a drop in oil pressure.

 

4) Could be a bad MAF (I think they only last 160k or so), boost/vacuum leak, faulty coil pack (and Diamond coil pack from any 1st gen 5mt is a direct replacement) or in my case a combination of all three. Any MAF with aluminum housing from a first gen is also a direct replacement. I've posted the part no. USLiberty has a spare too. Check the resistance across the injectors (should be 11-12 ohms).

 

Only way to know it is building boost as it should is if you have a boost gauge installed. Stock boost is 8.7 psi. Check your turbo inlet elbow for leaks and replace all of your vacuum lines and PCV lines and your PCV valve. Also replace every single one of your soft coolant lines.

 

Any CELS?

 

Welcome to the party!!!

A rough idle upon startup can be normal. Subies idle high at first (about 1200) and settle down to 6-800 rpm.

 

Running a few more ground lines from the neg terminal of the battery to the chassis and the engine won't hurt anything.

Starting fluid(ether) can help find a vacuum leak, the engine will idle up when its sprayed on a vacuum leak.

I'm going to agree with US Liberty, you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. If you haven't messed with the engine yet you are going to find out you have to disconnect about 100 connections to get to anything. Someone may have forgotten to put something back correctly. Find a diagram showing the routing on BBS.legacy central.org.

I'm fortunate my car runs great. The only problem I have is the massive amount of body rot.