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5EAT Ask your Questions!?!


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I REALLY would love to try this mod! :spin:

 

Just not in the budget and time right now....

 

 

But hey you did say "Ask away" for questions regarding the 5eat...

 

So check this out... Two things I guess... So the other day, I was manually shifting the legacy (Racing a shitty saab :lol: whom I kicked there ass), none the less, I went to shift and waited A HAIR to long, and while assuming I bounced it off of a weird spot around the rev limiter, I ended up getting a VERY vigorous pound/slap sound, almost like a trans with blown trans mount, that kind of bang (Did it once in my old firebird, only reason I compare it to that)... None the less, driving fine, just a fluke shift issue I'm thinking... This one isn't something I've really had an issue with before, or heard before, first time so maybe just a fluke.

 

Anyways, the more tedious one that drives me CRAZY, is this stupid little "Shudder" I get going from I believe 1st to 2nd (But could be 2nd to 3rd now that I think of it), and the best way I can describe how it happens, is sort of when your not p*ssy footin it, but your also not really trying to get into the throttle all that much, kind of in between, it's like it confuses the trans on shifting and I get this little shudder. So under moderate boost/load, and also mostly if applying torque up slight inclines etc... Doesn't happen all that often, and otherwise, if driving light, the shifting is spot on, and same goes for driving hard, shifts will be spot on... So kind of confusing...

 

Would be interested to see if any thought on this one

 

Link to a thread I mentioned this in

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-trans-200755.html

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One, you seriously beat on your car don't you...? :lol: Two, through these shenanigans do you regularly maintain your ATF (drain and fill, flush, whatever)??

 

Nah man :lol: I could see how it would seem that way, but I actually drive my car like ONCE a week :( and the rest of the time its my fiance who doesn't drive like that. But even when I did drive my car most of the time, I wouldn't beat on it that much, I get my moments where I want to have a little fun, and play with the performance side of whats available, but I also LOVE just cruising the car.

 

 

Now I will be honest... I bought the car 8 years ago, and for the first 50k miles and about 2-3 years, yea I drove the piss out of her from time to time :lol: but to that note, I've also been meticulous in keeping up on EVERY maintenance possible, including the trans and diffs :)

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I REALLY would love to try this mod! :spin:

 

Just not in the budget and time right now....

 

 

But hey you did say "Ask away" for questions regarding the 5eat...

 

So check this out... Two things I guess... So the other day, I was manually shifting the legacy (Racing a shitty saab :lol: whom I kicked there ass), none the less, I went to shift and waited A HAIR to long, and while assuming I bounced it off of a weird spot around the rev limiter, I ended up getting a VERY vigorous pound/slap sound, almost like a trans with blown trans mount, that kind of bang (Did it once in my old firebird, only reason I compare it to that)... None the less, driving fine, just a fluke shift issue I'm thinking... This one isn't something I've really had an issue with before, or heard before, first time so maybe just a fluke.

 

Anyways, the more tedious one that drives me CRAZY, is this stupid little "Shudder" I get going from I believe 1st to 2nd (But could be 2nd to 3rd now that I think of it), and the best way I can describe how it happens, is sort of when your not p*ssy footin it, but your also not really trying to get into the throttle all that much, kind of in between, it's like it confuses the trans on shifting and I get this little shudder. So under moderate boost/load, and also mostly if applying torque up slight inclines etc... Doesn't happen all that often, and otherwise, if driving light, the shifting is spot on, and same goes for driving hard, shifts will be spot on... So kind of confusing...

 

Would be interested to see if any thought on this one

 

Link to a thread I mentioned this in

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-trans-200755.html

 

I don't have anything to add, assuming you're asking what these symptoms indicate. Just keep the ATF fresh, and keep driving it, and if anything gets bad, deal with it then.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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How much power has one seen with a stage 2 5eat? I would like to take some ideas and get my soon to be new 4th gen on the right track for success. If you know what mods were done to get these numbers please fill me in.
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How much power has one seen with a stage 2 5eat? I would like to take some ideas and get my soon to be new 4th gen on the right track for success. If you know what mods were done to get these numbers please fill me in.

 

that's more a power / tuning question than a 5EAT technical question. And it's been answered a lot. Google will reveal many many instances of Stage 2 LGTs. There is more info on making power at stage 2 than you could ever need or want, on this forum.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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I have a couple ideas, but need more information to really be sure. If it bothers you that much, see if a friendly mechanic can drive it while on a lift, and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. The shift from 2-1 could be the sound of the direct clutch or DC solenoid disengaging, or the sound of the HL&R clutch or solenoid engaging, though these are things you shouldn't be able to hear. The shift cable is decoupled from the trans metal with some rubber, IIRC, though not much since you still need that cable connection to have little give.

 

The sound or sensation of going from 1st D to 1st Sport / Manual could be the sound of the Low Coast Brake or solenoid engaging.

 

These are probably the only ones you hear because otherwise road / tire / wind noise would drown out the other gear changes at higher speeds.

 

In any case, the solenoids are driven with PWM current, so there shouldn't be any relays clicking, except the shift lock solenoid...

 

Separately, I never thought about it before, but the shift lock solenoid may be engaging once you're out of 1st gear, so that you can't shift your car from 2nd, 3, 4 or 5th gear into Reverse or Park. Look into whether the sound is exactly the same, and that might be the answer to your question. As the Car Talk guys say, I like this answer.

 

How many miles are on the current ATF? Do you normally drive with the windows down when you hear these things?

 

If everything works fine and the fluid is fresh (<30,000 miles) then I wouldn't worry about it, and just give yourself a pat on the back from having such a keen ear to your car's idiosyncrasies.

 

You da man Climber, thanks for the input.

 

Mileage on current ATF unknown, looks and smells good/ok. I plan on finally flushing this weekend (payday).

I'm convinced the click in the shifter console is normal [shiftlock??] operation and I just hear it (124k miles) when I'm being anal. It clicks in N when slowing down right at the same 5ish MPH so like you said, I like that answer.

 

And same with the noise when going from 1st-Drive to 1st-Sport/manual, it's got to be the Direct Clutch you mentioned. I could clearly hear it was the fluid moving thru a different set of vanes, I just needed someone like you to 'esplain to me somesing' :-)

Also only notice this noise in a drive thru, all accy's off, window down....or in the driveway with the door open :-) I'm so my own worst enemy and causer of stress.

 

Thanks again for your input Climber, I really appreciate it.

After March (dang wedding) I hope to be hitting you up for a VB/kit too!

I've been jonesing since I got a ride in Zen's GT.

Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014.
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I bet it's all just that one safety solenoid in the shifter assembly right under your right hand, which is why you can hear it in the cabin. That's cool to know when it engages / disengages. That is another important consideration for going standalone TCU, which I had not previously considered. My car has been too loud for too long, to notice such noises. You could probably open up the assembly and put some sound deadener near it to make it quiet, but that's probably never going to be high on the to-do list.
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Today I went for a drive and did a 3rd gear pull. IT felt like there were dead spots in the power band. Kind of like a bump feeling when it hit this "dead spot" not sure if anyone has ever experienced this.

 

Time for a fluid flush, new filter, and tcu re learn I guess.

 

Cobb Stage 2 for 5,000 miles

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And yes it does seem the dead spots are near the same spot

 

Could be your ECU pulling timing, possibly due to learned knock correction. Log the event, and post up in a new thread, and post in here the link to the new thread if you like. If you reset the ECU, then that would clear the learned timing, and the problem would go away, at least at first. This could be indicative of a bigger issue, so best to log first, in my opinion.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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It is possible that my jb welded tmic is leaking. I will have to buy a vag com/tactrix to log.

 

It could be my OTS cobb map however, wouldn't I have had this happen earlier?

 

If it were a transmission problem what other things would I notice when it starts to slip. I do have rough downshifts sometimes

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I have a 5EAT Turbo 05 LGT. I start my car, and it runs. Then, If I don't wait longer than about 5 minutes and shift into D or R, you can hear the engine struggling to idle and it kills, unless I tap the pedal which keeps the engine going but results in an agressive shift for the transmission. Any ideas what is happening ?
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I have a 5EAT Turbo 05 LGT. I start my car, and it runs. Then, If I don't wait longer than about 5 minutes and shift into D or R, you can hear the engine struggling to idle and it kills, unless I tap the pedal which keeps the engine going but results in an agressive shift for the transmission. Any ideas what is happening ?

 

It is possible that my jb welded tmic is leaking. I will have to buy a vag com/tactrix to log.

 

It could be my OTS cobb map however, wouldn't I have had this happen earlier?

 

If it were a transmission problem what other things would I notice when it starts to slip. I do have rough downshifts sometimes

 

Both you guys have engine problems, which should not be solved in this transmission thread. Start a thread or read existing ones under the search words of your symptoms. People are usually willing to help out a lot. But these most likely have nothing to do with the transmission, so please post them in the correct section. It helps us all keep everything straight.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Not sure if this has been asked before, but somewhere.. I read that a tranny flush isn't good on our cars (or maybe it's just automatics)... why?

 

Ugh, this reminds me of why there needs to be an FAQ. The problem is not the flush. The problem is what type of flush, and what chemicals are used. Old ATF condition is also a factor. Ideally, you only want to do a flush that uses ATF. You want that flush to be powered by the transmission's internal pump, not the pump on the flush machine. You want the flush to flow in the direction of normal fluid flow, not reverse. Sometimes a flush procedure at certain shops breaks one of these ideal situations.

 

Add in the risk of ATF being seriously old: If you ATF is black and full of deposits, then the flush can risk dislodging a lot of gunk all at once, thus clogging some critical pathway in the transmission. So the key is to be as gentle and normal with ATF flushing as you can.

 

People have had good luck with the BG. At the same time, I know several people on here who lost 5EAT function shortly after a flush (unknown machine). I wrote a walkthrough (a basic one) so people can see how to do a flush at home, which is in my opinion about as good a process as you are ever going to get.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-5eat-atf-flush-197248.html?p=4180890

 

 

One member here actually argued with me about it being too risky and that it's safer on an old transmission to just let the fluid degrade until the transmission completely dies. I told him to replace the fluid one quart at a time, and drive 100 miles between quart swaps. Repeat a few times, then flush everything.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Is there anywhere to get a new center differential? or just the gears? Subaru wants to much money and was wondering if there was any aftermarket options? Got my engine rebuilt and took it for a drive but now it won't move. Took the center diff a part and the gears are stripped...

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_1/

 

What did you destroy? Small chance I can sell you some replacement parts I have in stock. Alternatively, you can order the individual gears you destroyed, which could possibly be cheaper than the price you are working with now.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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