zimbonies Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I have a 2011 Legacy Limited, completely stock. I just got it inspected and the Stealership told me that, before next inspection, I will need new rear brake pads and the rear rotors turned. They will do it for $260 Also note: I'm only keeping the car for another 24 months, so I don't need top of the line performance. I'm also a Sunday driver (42,000 miles in 4 years). I used to do this kinda stuff on my cars all the time...25 years ago. Now I don't have a garage or ramps or a vast amount of tools. My questions: 1. I can't seem to find any info on what tools I need. I know I'll need a C-clamp and a few metric wrenches, but are there any special tools to take the caliper bracket off? 2. I've read/heard that the rear rotor has the emegency brake inside the hub(?). If this is true, will that affect replacing the rotors? 3. I need to know exactly what tools are needed because it's my only car, so I certainly don't want to have to put it all back together so that I can go to the parts store to get something so that I can tear it apart again. 4. Do I need any special lubricants and/or grease to stop the brake squeal? Any other lubes etc for any other parts of the job? If #2 is true, I'll probably pay someone else to do this for me, but if I can save $150 of the Stealership price, I'll certainly do it myself! Thank you all - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 I have never worked on a 2011 I assume the brakes haven't changed much. Yes the e-brake is on the rotor. Worst case you need a brake spoon to back off the star wheel, or a screw driver works too, I used both. You'll need 8mm x 1.25 bolts with PB Blaster and Anti-Sieze compound to thread into the holes in the rotor to back it off the hub. The rear brackets on a 4th gen, you need a 6" extension and 14mm socket. I think the rear slide pins are 12mm. I lube the slide pins with green brake grease. IMO if you don't have the tools and a place, pay the man. You don't need to have the stealership do this. Any repair shop can. Find a good shop and use them for everything, if you like them recomend them to friends. Tell them to use your name, I have a trusted shop for over 30 years, I get stuff done cheaply and sometimes for free. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zimbonies Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Thank you Max - I could probably do it myself, but you're right. I will have a local independent shop do it right (new pads and rotors as opposed to new pads and turning the rotors). I can't imagine that the local guy would charge me more than the dealership would charge. I appreciate the response! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Your welcome. I like to paint my calipiers and rotors, so I have a good idea what's going on there. It's also let's me know the brakes are in good working order. I clean and lube the slide pins when I have the brakes apart. There are links here if you want to upgrade your pads and rotors. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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