Rx330 OEM conversion for Full OEM HID's Write-up

Those are the AFS projectors so they will require custom mounting.

This is a Non-ASF

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=33470&d=1173427299

Thanks. I looked up the thread where I placed the order and I did ask for the non-ASF version, and they did confirm that they have them... just a mix-up on their end.

 

I've asked about an exchange. Will keep you all posted.

They apologized, I'll be exchanging them for non-AFS.

Nice!

Thought I'd bring this one back.

 

I bought my LGT with an RX330 retrofit and angel eyes done by the previous owner.

 

Three problems:

 

1) Pass side headlight gets moisture in it.

 

2) Pass side headlight high (xenon) high beam doesn't work.

 

3) One of the CFL rings on the pass side headlight has come loose.

 

Clearly I'm going to have to disassemble that light to get into this.

 

Any tips on resealing to ensure it's moisture proof? Also I saw some mention of a cap that shouldn't be tightened too much, as it allows air to enter & leave the headlight? What is this?

 

I understand there is a solenoid in the light that moves the cutoff shield for high beam activation. This solenoid could be bad, or there could be a wiring issue to blame. I can diagnose the wiring, but is there anyway to test or replace the solenoid? I'm not too worried about this, as I am unimpressed with the xenon high beams and will be upgrading the stock high beams & re-wiring those.

 

I know the angel eyes/CFL rings are unrelated to the retrofit, but I also welcome any tips for properly securing these. I believe the previous owner used some type of adhesive - the kind that is yellow when it dries. The driver's side is fine, so I'm hoping if I can clean & prep all the surfaces really well, that a re-application will work. Any idea what adhesive to use?

^re the moisture: reseal with high temp black rtv silicone. best luck with the other issues.

use the black high temp RTV

 

the solenoid though if its broken you will have to source for the lights or just don't worry about it and leave them in the low beam position.

 

Angel eyes you can remount with perhaps some clear high temp RTV or silicone but if you use silicone leave the lights apart for at least 24 hours so it can cure fully. Silicone if not left to cure will leave a haze inside your lights.

Yeah if the solenoid is busted, I'm just going to disconnect the xenon hibeams. It could be wiring though - this guy didn't do the cleanest job.

 

Black high temp RTV it is. Clean all the surfaces real well, maybe rough it up a bit, final alcohol swab?

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Welcome any others for ensuring a one-time fix with this

 

BTW - am I alone in thinking the bi-xenon high beams are unimpressive?

Edited May 7, 2010 by ece_tim

maybe you could use the grey double-sided 3m mounting tape for the AEs? (i don't have even a remote idea of how they mount, but that stuff pretty much locks down everything i've ever thrown at it ).

Thanks, I'll consider that whenever I dive into these. I'm concerned over there not being enough surface area for tape, but thanks for the tip.

If I had to mount some angel eyes I would find something clear that can withstand high temps like maybe just krazy glue. Put it on let them sit to cure fully and touch up more if needed.

 

As far as the sealing goes. Mine are using just the stock sealant but the high temp rtv will work great. You don't need to clean off anything if its the stock stuff there but if the other guy put silicone on then clean all that junk off.

Yeah, a clear adhesive would be ideal. I'm just not familiar with adhesives, so I'll have to do my research.

They apologized, I'll be exchanging them for non-AFS.

Wondering how everything worked out with your install? Any issues with the kit from the Retrofit guys?

They switched them out pretty quickly, but everything is still boxed up, I haven't gotten around to installing any of it yet.

since im local to the retrofit source i stopped by their operation and picked up the stuff to do my retro. only thing i did different is i got the TSX lenses and wow what a difference.

yeah I run E30 Lenses in mine. My next thing is custom shielding which I might get to this week depending on the weather.

Custom shielding? As, the low beam shield? To what end?

well I'm not happy with the shields that are in there now because they are flat so I am making custom curved shields so that the beam is sharp throughout the entire beam instead of just in the center as you get with a flat shield.

I just received everything I needed for my RX 330 retrofit, but now I'm wondering something. I ordered a set of TSX-R lenses and when I opened the box, they actually ship the whole TSX-R projector. Now, am i still better of using only the TSX-R lenses in the RX-300 projectors or using the whole TSX-R projectors ?

 

Witch set-up will give me the crispest and widest light output ?

the widest is definitely the RX bowls and they are also a direct swap with our stock ones so its also the easiest.

Allright !

 

I also will try to make a custom curved shield. I'll post it up once it's done !

how do you go about making a custom shield so that everything is focused and sharp. wouldn't that be kinda tough?

It just takes patience and its a trial and error thing.

Ok, finally posting here after reading, and reading, etc...

I am going to be attempting this over the holiday season (first retrofit), I have on order RX non AFS projectors with the TSX-R clear lenses. I know that the bowls should fit right in although I have 3 questions,

 

1) Do I have to order a conversion kit for the D2S bulbs, or just the bulbs themselves (I would imagine I have to order a kit to get from the wire harness that holds the H7)

 

2) I also want to black out the back, basically the opposite of clearing them, what kind of matte spray paint should I use, does it matter, I imagine high heat is a plus) Like the attached image

 

3) Best adhesive for putting the glass back on?

Edited December 10, 2010 by Myevodream