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Success with non-OEM Wheel Hub Bearing Units


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I ordered all four wheel Hub Bearing Units from Detroit Axle on eBay for $168.48.

Part numbers:

Front - 513220

Rear - 512293

(suspiciously similar to the MOOG Part numbers)

 

No problems with ABS, Cruise control, or NVH.

 

Install was rough because of the old rust-seized hubs, but I was sure to test drive after each corner was installed. No issues.

 

I'm extremely happy I didn't have to spend stealership prices for OEM hubs.

 

I wanted to be sure before I bought them, that they'd be warrantied, so I reached out to DA and MOOG.

Some notes from Detroit Axle and MOOG engineering:

 

Yes, our hubs are compatible, and are made to manufacturer specs. The warranty does cover manufacturer defects, including if the ABS sensor is giving erratic or bad readings. If that happens, we can replace them, or if it is within 30 days from purchase, we can also refund them.

 

Thank you, and have a great day,

 

Dan L.

Detroit Axle

Customer Support Hours

Mon-Fri 9am-5pm Eastern Time

Sat 9am-4pm Eastern Time

Toll Free: (888) 583-0255

 

RE: Cruise control compatibility

A little info on this. While this may or may not apply to this specific issue, our engineers and research departments have seen this issue before.

 

On the legacy, the speed signal goes from the sensors to the abs and/or vdc module (depending how the vehicle is equipped), then to the ecm. The cruise control is controlled by the ecm. On most vehicles, a problem with the speed signal would trigger an abs code first. As I read the diagnostics on the legacy, it is possible that a cruise control fault may be set without an abs fault due to the speed signal. Once a cruise control fault is set, it will not re-engage until after the ignition switch is cycled (clearing the code). I am not saying that a cruise control speed signal fault is automatically caused by a faulty wheel bearing, the proper diagnosis has to be performed to determine were the problem is. (speed sensor, sensor air gap, connections, signal interference {radio wave or foreign particles}, bearing magnetic encoder ring).

 

Our research department has seen one particular issue about the encoder signal. The bearings usually check out fine. They actually installed an alleged defective bearing on a lab car and when removing the original bearing they encountered much resistance. The hub area had rust all around it. There is a backing plate (disc cover) that mounts between the hub and the knuckle that had rust also. When the OEM hub was finally removed the knuckle hole had to be vacuumed to get much of the debris out. Afterwards the components had to be wire brushed and cleaned. When the alleged defective hub was installed it performed properly.

 

On this application, the speed sensor mounts into the knuckle and sticks out behind the bearing to read the encoder on the back of the bearing. If there is any rust still present on the mounting area or on the backing plate, it can cause the bearing assembly not to be fully inserted into the hole even when it is torque down. This would create an excessive “air gap” between the encoder and the sensor. Just a few thousandths additional air gap can cause the issues that are being encountered.

 

Hope that might help. You should be receiving a little thank you in the mail next week or so.

 

Thanks,

Adam Richardson

Federal-Mogul Corporation

Product Manager - Wheel End Products

Vehicle Component Solutions

Office +1 248-354-2679

Cell +1 248-752-5731

Email adam.richardson@federalmogul.com

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Yea. 168 shipped for all four.

 

The rears had a deal for the pair. $69.

 

the fronts were $20 off. $49 each.

 

Theyre on ebay right now.

 

What exactly did you want pics of?

I dont have any of the install. Was too busy slide hammering the living daylights out of the old hubs. But I can screen shot the ebay auctions for you.

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A link to the site would be great.

 

I was just trolling, we trolls use that phase from time to time.

 

If these things last, you got a great deal.

 

Check out the DIY threads about this topic.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/walkthroughs-basic-operation-maintenance-36.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 month later...

Part numbers are exactly the same as the Moog hubs.

 

I'd be interested to know if these are indeed the same hubs for $40 less (for a set of two) than the cheapest place I've seen Moogs. Would brighten my day for sure.

 

"Pro part" part numbers are very similar as well at 29513220 and 29512293 respectively and are listed on Rock Auto as $53 and $58, which might make more sense.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I bought a set from Carpartswholesale on ebay and they didnt work. When the cruise was set the car pulsated like it couldnt read the wheel speed correctly, which was super annoying. Sent them back and got a refund, went with OEM all is good now.
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I bought a set from Carpartswholesale on ebay and they didnt work. When the cruise was set the car pulsated like it couldnt read the wheel speed correctly, which was super annoying. Sent them back and got a refund, went with OEM all is good now.

 

Interesting...How come the OP is not having any CC issues...?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I haven't used them on any of my Subarus, but I use Detroit Axle hubs on my truck and love them. They were $100 apiece shipped, as apposed to $400 at NAPA or $750 from Chrysler. I've used every brand hub I can find for this truck, they were all crap except for OEM and Detroit Axle, which is IMO better quality than the OEM was. Heavier, smoother and quieter right out of the box. Very good quality unbelievably cheap. Their ball joints are also fantastic and stupidly cheap.
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Interesting...How come the OP is not having any CC issues...?

 

I dont know, maybe one of them could have been defective. I didnt want to worry about having to change it again even if a new one still didnt work so I just went with OEM to save from any more headaches.

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OEM comes with 12 month no question asked replacement policy. If you fry your hubs in less than 12 months, it starts to pay for itself. Or maybe not.
I was doing that, regularly. Changing one out every six months or so. At hundreds of dollars a pop, it got old fast... and Chrysler wasn't any more interested in warranting them than any of the aftermarket ones were. OEM lasted longer, but still ended up costing more in the end. Detroit Axle was the best of both worlds to me, last as long as OEM and cheapest ones on the market too. I don't know if they even have a warranty, but for the cost and service life I don't really care.
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I had installed aftermarket hub bearings in my car and the cruise control quit working. They did not set an error code either. I did this back in October and today I finally replaced them with Subaru original parts. Needless to say, my cruise control works again. Thank goodness I can get my parts through my job so they only cost me $155 a piece.
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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Awesome, I'm planning to use the DA unit in the LGT when it's ready. My truck goes through hub assemblies like dirty socks, and the DA ones have been in there so long I've forgotten to think about changing them so I have high hopes for yours.
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My LF wheel bearing is making noise. Ordered a pair of DA bearings off of Amazon for $65 shipped.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHGS6QU/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item]Amazon.com: Detroit Axle: Front Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly 513220 - 5 Lug with ABS (Pair of 2): Automotive[/ame]

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