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2.5i Spark Plug tutorial


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Well the one tutorial is for a LGT and that doesn't really apply to the N/A crowd plus it is always helpful to demonstrate on what you (hopefully) well be working on after reading this if you need help. As stated this thread is a walk through on a fairly simple and cost saving procedure, Spark Plug Replacement.

 

What tools you will need:

 

5/8 inch spark plug socket

Two 3" extensions

One 6" extension

Basic socket tool set

Needle nose pliers

Phillips and Flat head screw drivers

4 NGK FR5AP-11 or BKR5EGP or which ever plug you decide to use

 

**//Note the Bosch wireset commonly stocked at your local parts store is probably wrong, go for the store brand set and a quick spot check is to pull them out of the box. There should be two long wires, 1 medium length wire and one shorter, they should also have the plug tube boot on the electrode connecting end//**

 

I did this in conjunction with an oil change, air filter change, Fuel filter change, front and rear differential change with Extra-S. If you are somewhat savvy with cars all these are easily done and will save you BIG $$$ over the dealer price of this service.

 

I started on the driver side of the engine with the plug nearest to the front of the engine so that is how this walk through will be presented.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010340.jpg

 

1. Open hood/bonnet and look over everything note locations and routings of wires and connections.

 

2. Remove the pop-it holding the washer fluid neck in place and move it out of the way( it is flexible i tucked it under the A/C line). Remove the battery, and take out the three bolts (12mm) holding the fuse box to the fender well (see pictures below) as well as the bolt connecting the small black ground wire to the fender well ( this is the black wire in the same harness as the positive red wire)

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010343.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010344.jpg

Now once the 4 bolts are out DO NOT try to pull the panel out it is connected to various things in the front bumper and being so is still held in place.

 

3. Firmly grasp the ignition wire and pull it off the spark plug

 

4. Place the 5/8 inch spark plug socket on the 6 inch extension and insert it into the opening on the head where you pulled the wire from. Tip: fit the socket onto the spark plug before connecting the ratchet to the extension this helps ensures the socket is gripping the plug correctly. Once it is firmly in place connect ratchet and begin to loosen plug. All it takes is one full turn and it should be able to easily be turned by simple rotating the extension.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010345.jpg

Note if you have a socket that doesn't have the rubber grommet to hold the plug you will have trouble pulling it from the head don't worry simply use a pair of needle nosed pliers insert into the opening where the plug is and grab it and pull it out.

 

5. Once you get the plug out it should like the one on the left and the new one is on the right

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010347.jpg

6. Now to install new plug simply place it into the 5/8 inch socket firmly and insert it back into the opening once it is in the best way to ensure you don't cross thread is to SLOWLY turn the plug as if you were to loosen it.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010348.jpg

If done correctly you will feel and possibly hear a slight "click or tick" this is the beginning of the thread on the plug once you hear/feel that begin to slowly turn the plug clockwise once you get it hand tight ratchet on and tighten them down to btwn 12-15 ft/lb ( use more torque if you lubricated the threads and less if you did not) if you dont have a torque wrench tighten them 1/2 to 3/4 quarters turn past the point where you cant freely rotate the ratchet.

 

Once that is in place the wire back in the opening and press it FIRMLY until you hear a faint "CLICK" this is important no click means it may not be properly seated back on the plug itself and it may not get fire from the coil. when pressing on the wire place most of your force in the center of the wire boot and hold the pressure on it will click!

 

7. The rear plug on this side will require some moving around to get to so:

Unplug the sensor that runs to your A/C line

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010349.jpg

Now remember the fuse panel now that the bolts are out of that you can now rotate the whole piece up and out the the way to allow for your ratchet with extension to fit.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010350.jpg

Notice i just rotated the entire panel up 90 degrees and now you lots of room :lol:

 

8. Follow same extraction and installation procedures from above directions. Note you may need to use two 3 inch extensions or a single 6 inch to get this one out.

 

9. Make sure you connect that sensor back to your A/C line, bolt the ground wire back, install fuse panel bolts, place battery back, and put the white pop-it connect back in for the washer fluid neck but KEEP the battery disconnected.

 

10. Now on to the passenger side take a moment look over everything note locations and wire routes. Then remove the entire intake from the engine. This is done by loosening the ring clamps around the snorkus leading from the filter box and leading to the big black torque box mounting to the intake. Unclip the MAF sensor.

 

To remove the air intake funnel simply remove the two pop-its hold it to the radiator shroud beside the hood/bonnet latch. To remove the other half of the filter box remove the black screw holding it to the fender well ( located closer to the cylinder head) and the bolt on the inside of the air box both are 12mm. You will be left with the following

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010352.jpg

 

11. Now tuck the power steering hose above the other line that runs along that side of the engine and unclip the breather tube and place it out of the way and you will have all the room needed.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/P8010353.jpg

 

12. Now start with either one you want pull the wire take out plug insert new shiny plug insert wire back firmly onto the plug. Note: if you start with the rear plug you will notice that the bracket holding the ABS pump limits the space in this case I used a combo of 3 inch extensions placing them on the plug first then fitting the ratchet on my ratchet was right up against this bracket but turned fine. Reinstall the aribox, intake tube, MAF sensor connector, Oil breather hose and you are done.

 

13. Reconnect positive battery wire. BE aware that it may your alarm system to go off haha mine did and i jolted up and hit my head :lol:. Make sure all connections and bolts are back in place and connected firmly.

 

14. Test start. It will take a few turns before your engine fires 5-7 cycles when it starts have a look at your engine if it is shaking violently you left off a wire and it isnt firing that cylinder causing an unbalanced sequence shut off engine press each wire to ensure it is seated right. Restart if your engine is running smoother you fixed it. Also notice how I worked with one cylinder at a time this is ensure no cross wiring on cylinders in case you forget the order of the wires.

 

I hope that is a good guide to spark plug removal and installation it can save you a lot of money. Enjoy if there is something I should add post and ill edit.

 

 

 

I hope this gets stickied:redface:

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Nice.

 

I always add some anti-seize to my plugs.

[SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE]
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i assume you did this on your 08 2.5i. how many miles? i believe spark plug changes are at 60k, but i guess it wouldn't hurt to do them a little earlier; i'm at 39k. fresh bread is better then old bread close to the expiration date right?
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Thanks :rolleyes: Yeah i have used it in the past ( on a 2.4 L LD9 Grand Am Engine) and they vibrated aloose and actually popped out over time

 

Hmmm, odd. I can't see why that caused it. I have used them every time when I changed the plugs in my Cobra's and Mustangs w/o a problem.

[SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE]
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i assume you did this on your 08 2.5i. how many miles? i believe spark plug changes are at 60k, but i guess it wouldn't hurt to do them a little earlier; i'm at 39k. fresh bread is better then old bread close to the expiration date right?

 

All walkthroughs will be for a 2008 Legacy 2.5i. 60K is a long time on plugs especially if you always run 87 :eek: I have only ever ran high test 93 octane in my legacy. You car will run fine up to 60IK on plugs but I wouldn't expect it to be a performer and you may take a cut in fuel mileage. I just wanted to show ppl that may have reservations about self maintenance that IT is possible and you learn a few things in the process and save $$$$$$$ because the dealer WILL hit you in the wallet for this maintenance.

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Hmmm, odd. I can't see why that caused it. I have used them every time when I changed the plugs in my Cobra's and Mustangs w/o a problem.

 

 

Well i think that was more of a cracked shim that was around the base of the thread of the plug it cracked and created a gap then vibration took over sorry the anti seize wasn't the culprit. I also believe that over torque plays a big role in a seized plug

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Damn dude did you use every smilie on the site?:lol:

 

Thanks. it bolted right on, no cutting or anything:D

[SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE]
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I had the whole thing and all of it bolted right in;)
[SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE]
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"F" WOW i can't believe I asked that hahaha ive been under my subbie and a buddies LGT enough to know that the LGT mid pipe and 2.5i Mid pipe END at the same place ( where both LGT and 2.5i axleback sections start) WOW i feel like a total n00b right now I knew that all along . time to edit
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ok mods time to sticky right ???

+1

[SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE]
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i might get off my a and do this weekend thanks you made it seem easy

 

And not to seem "car salesman-ish" but it is it took me longer to do it this time b/c i was making a tutorial but next time should only be 45 min MAX the hardest part is removing things like intake, battery etc. And there is a lot of room around 3 of the 4 plugs to work with.

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Ngk fr5ap-11
[SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE]
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since we all agree that changing out plugs before 60k is better, why not just get the NGK copper v-power? i've read that copper is better for performance and platinum is better for longevity? :icon_ques

 

 

Preference my good friend ;)

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Thanks Gee-Otto for the walkthrough, it is most helpful as I was originally reading the guide for the LGTs and thought damn what a PITA! Luckily for the 2.5i it is a lot more straightforward. Before I get started, can you advise if having only a 6" extension is going to be a problem?

 

You explain that the rear pass. side is really tight, that the ratchet is against the ABS bracket when tightening up. In that case am I going to find it impossible to thread *just* the plug, socket, and 6" extension into the engine even before I fit the ratchet?

 

If it's the case I'll go and buy 2 x 3" extensions. I'd rather be prepared than be left cursing and having to put the car back together halfway to go to the shops! Thanks.

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