Just replaced clutch... Horrible noise

Just replaced the clutch I started it and heard a HORRIBLE rapping noise. I have an 05 LGT and went from DMFW to a SMFW via infamous performance Competition Clutch Stage 2 kit. Any suggestions/theories as to what it may be?

 

Noise happens w/ clutch engaged or disengaged. Any idea's?

That shield at the bottom of the clutch area might have gotten pushed up, is there any way to bend that down w/o removing anything?

did you replace it or a shop?

I replaced it. It's really really crappy feeling when taking off in first, but shifts seem to be ok. i pried the shield down which resolved the noise.

I have the same exact issue. It has been driving me nuts and could not figure out what

went wrong. Which plate is this? Are you able to reach it without separating the trans

again?

Yea, i stuffed a pry bar and pulled it down, its between subframe and trans/engine.

you can see the shield in a few pictures in this thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-clutch-replacement-video-126975p9.html

 

I'm assuming the violent engagement is because it hasn't properly been broken in.

I replaced my clutch yesterday with the comp stage 2 w LWFW and i also had to get in there with a pry bar and get the heat shield away from the flywheel. I have very violent starts too. I have about 75 miles on the new clutch because im not sold on it and want to break it in and see if the violent starts go away. Its real bad in reverse. Its sad because it has actually made me not want to drive it. The only thing i can think is maybe we didnt push the clutch fork all the way back down. I am going to see if that may be the problem in the morning. Oh, and I used the move transmission back method without removing the cv shafts.

I replaced my clutch yesterday with the comp stage 2 w LWFW and i also had to get in there with a pry bar and get the heat shield away from the flywheel. I have very violent starts too. I have about 75 miles on the new clutch because im not sold on it and want to break it in and see if the violent starts go away. Its real bad in reverse. Its sad because it has actually made me not want to drive it. The only thing i can think is maybe we didnt push the clutch fork all the way back down. I am going to see if that may be the problem in the morning. Oh, and I used the move transmission back method without removing the cv shafts.

 

I did the same method. I also didnt feel like driving it, and i've only put 13 miles on it so far. I need to adjust the pedal i think the TOB is riding on the clutch itself. Otherwise its smooth in gear, just from a standstill or in reverse its evil rough.

Pried the shield away and that solved it. I could see the spot where it was hitting. I moved the transmission back a well. I think what happened was that the transmission was sitting on the cross member or the brace I have down there and it pushed the plate up.

It's easy to bend that plate during reinstall of the trans if you aren't paying attention to it.

 

Get used to the aggressive engagement, par for the course when dealing with a clutch like that.

Personally i was prepred for the violent engagement but this is some other kind of animal. If I let the clutch out under 2000 rpms it shakes and shudders and makes all kinds of noises. If im at or around 2000 it shakes a little bit. If i let it out at or above 2500 its a lot smoother but i get clutch stink like crazy and i can tell im just burning the crap out of it. Im at about 100 miles into break in and the clutch i put in my last car didnt stink half as bad. And none of the noises i am talking about could be chatter from the flywheel. I have flywheel chatter because of the LWFW and the chatter isnt bad at all IMO.

 

To update about the clutch fork i dont know what i was thinking about it not being pushed down all the way because the slave cylinder sits in that groove. With the slave intalled i have about half an inch of play side to side. I dont know how much play there should be if any in both scenarios (slave installed, slave uninstalled.)

I think i also have another problem as I replaced the clutch in fear that my TOB was on its way out and it wasnt that bad. I was getting a grinding noise that i could feel in the clutch when letting the clutch out to start moving upon cold start up (in the morning on the way to work, going home after work.) After like ten minutes of driving the grind/noise would go away and i couldnt get it to do it again if my life depended on it. Im starting to think that it wasnt the clutch and now i need to get back to troubleshooting. It seemed to be coming from the front drivers corner.

You have a LWFW and an aggressive clutch. That shudder is the name of the game.

 

The grinding and shuddering when very cold is mostly normal. All clutches slip a bit more when cold.

I didnt think i should be getting clutch stink like i am. Any ideas on the previous problem? It seems that it got worse because it happens all the time now not just when its cold.

Check wheel bearings and axles.

I know what i would be looking for with the wheel bearing but what would i be looking for with the cv shafts? I know there is like a quarter of an inch play in and out with both of them as i have gone over it recently. What else is there? Splines?

You have a LWFW and an aggressive clutch. That shudder is the name of the game.

 

The grinding and shuddering when very cold is mostly normal. All clutches slip a bit more when cold.

 

Think it will get a bit better with time? Obviously it wont be perfect, I'm starting to think i may nix the LWFL even though that's going to be hell (at least it wont take an hour to split the trans from the block)

 

I thought i understand that it would be a bit rough, but apparently I underestimated the difference.

 

I needed a flywheel regardless and it was slipping terrible, I'm a putz for not reading more into this. I'll have to deal for now, and hope after like 4-500 miles it will be livable.

It likely will not get much better.

 

LWFW's suck.

 

Look for rips and tears in the boots.

Well i know that the boots arent torn because i looked at them when i was under it replacing the clutch and i looked again this morning. How would you tell if where it goes into the transmission is bad or where it goes through the hub assembly is bad? I dont know how the cv shafts lock into the transmission since i didnt take them out. Sorry to threadjack IV.

There is a lesson here. If you replace a clutch, then replace ALL wearable parts. TOB,trans quill ETC.

 

Penny wise, pound foolish.

From time to time my Spec 2+ will chatter. I just put the tranny in neutral and side step the clutch pedal. The pedal bangs to the top and the chatter is gone.

 

The shuttering you guy's are talking about, I think is the same thing. I find these needs to be done if I baby the car to much.

 

Put some power through the clutch.

Who said anything about not replacing all wear items? Why wouldn't we when they are all included.

Thanks for the info max. I'm at like 125 miles how hard do you think I should get on the throttle (stage 2 pro tune).

Thanks for the info max. I'm at like 125 miles how hard do you think I should get on the throttle (stage 2 pro tune).

 

It's all good man. It's an open forum for everyone. I'm glad that my post has sparked help for the both of us.

 

Honestly, i would wait a wile before u start being mean to the clutch, (i also replaced my turbo at the same time so i'm wearing in 2 items) thus why i'm going easy on it. I'd wait 2-300 miles before you start giving it some serious beans.

 

I think in my case the negative results are just amplified by my tired engine/transmission/diff mounts. I have the whiteline rear diff inserts that I'm going to put in today or tomorrow. And once the turbo is broken in (2nd BNR 16g thankfully this one is very happy) I will allow it to have more boost so i can data log and Infamous1 can finish up my tune.

 

I'm basically debating if I'm going to take my girlfriends car to work tonight instead of my own. I don't feel totally comfortable with it for work yet.

 

Thanks for the imput BAC, i will likely change to an OEM WRX flywheel.

You can't use the oem flywheel with this kit....