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My knock sensor behaves the same as before. I get some random 'knock sum' increments at idle and cruise, but not much. Like 3-5 in an hour or two of cruising, plus one (maybe) per stoplight.

 

I'll go look at my clutch lever....

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Here is a review I did on the exedy 1050kg clutch and the lightweight flywheel from Australian Clutch Services. This is on a Jap spec 2.0l GT which has the same stock DMF as the US spec 5 speed 2.5GT manual. Sorry it is so long.

 

So after having my car off the road for almost a month while I got the heads done I just got it back on the road. While the motor was out I took the opportunity to do the clutch.

 

The old clutch did 127,000kms and would slip very occasionally. On removal and inspection there were a couple of hotspots on the flywheel and the clutch plate was pretty worn especially toward the edges. Not quite down to the rivets but almost.

 

So I ordered a new clutch and flywheel. Not the easiset thing to do but eventually got one.

 

As I picked up my motor with the fresh heads on it I asked them to rattle off my old flywheel with the torx T50 plus impact socket I had special ordered. FIRST MISTAKE! All over the legacy forums the T50 is supposed to fit. It is loose in the bolts though. I didn't see this and by the 4th bolt the tool was stuffed and they stripped the internal teeth on the bolt.

 

These bolts are hardened steel and very hard to drill. After snapping heaps of bits I went to my specialist tool shop and bought a carbide and diamond tipped bit which turned the bolt into butter. At that stage I got a warranty T50 bit as well.

 

I took the motor round the corner to Australian Clutch Services and asked them to rattle off the other three intact bolts (with the new T50 bit) it just managed to do that (even though the teeth bent on it) and finally the FW was off. Incidentally the correct tool is a square edged spline drive. Never found out which one though. Maybe get it from Subaru if you don't want the headaches I got.

 

While at ACS they asked what I was putting back on it. I showed them my new clutch and flywheel. They looked at it and said it was one of theirs, how on earth had I got it? It hadn't been released yet. Then they said the supplied pressure plate probably wouldn't hold it. For those interested this is why.

 

The 5 speed box in the liberty/legacy GT is the only one to get a 245mm clutch (all the 6 speeds get a 245). When they retro fit a non dual mass flywheel it is a 225mm clutch like all the other subaru 5 speeds including the wrx. The 245mm liberty/legacy GT pressure plate is rated at about 800kgs, the stock 225mm OEM wrx plate is 850kgs but on the smaller clutch. So overall you need a much stronger pressure plate with a slightly smaller clutch plate. Hopefully that makes sense. In the end I walked out with the 1050kgs spec pressure plate (this will be the one on all "standard street" clutches for liberty/legacy from now on).

 

Oh and I got a spiggot bearing because my kit didn't come with one. MAKE SURE you get that.

 

So install as per normal all went well.

 

Driving impressions.

 

At first I thought the pedal was as light or lighter than the stock clutch but I think that is because I lubed all the pivot points. Driving it is slightly heavier but my partner didn't really notice the weight.

 

The feel is MUCH MUCH better than my old one.

 

I stalled it when I first took off and have a couple more times since BUT it is easier to drive off in when you engage slowly, just if you pop it you will stall.

 

In every other driving situation at any revs the car is more responsive and the engine more tractable. Even crawling at idle in 1st gear.

 

My partner asked why it is so much faster. The car does accellerate so much better! Her butt dyno is less biased than mine.

 

There are no NVH issues when you are inside the car with the window up. If the window is down and you are in a carpark or next to a high fence you can hear a bit of clutch rattle around 2000-3000rpm when you are accellerating. At first I though it was pinging but I am sure it is the clutch.

 

I was going to send in my box for new syncros as the shift was slow and notchy. I don't know if it was the new oil or the clutch or a combo but in the end I couldn't afford the preventative maint of new syncros. Thankfully I didn't. The shifts is buttery smooth in every gear now. Awesome! For the record I just used Castrol Multitrax as recommended by CASTROL for sub boxes.

 

Was this simply the best mod I could have done? Hell yes! No additional strain on motor, extra accelleration and much better feel. Of course if my old clutch wasn't so worn it may be different. If you are thinking about a new clutch on your GT give ACS a call in Adelaide. Amazing!

 

Clutch is exedy 1050kg performance pressure plate, organic clutch plate and billet 6.8kg WRX 2.5l (06) flywheel. But it is all packaged as a DMF replacement for liberty from now on.

 

I have done around 500kms on it now. Fuel consumption is better and accelleration improvement is really very noticable. Great on the highway and good in traffic. The heads had minor porting and the valves got a 7 angle valve job so that may help (but every thing else is stock (incl boost, exhaust etc)).

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Nice bro. Interesting thing you mention about the bolts not bing Torx Plus T50. I had such bit and stripped like 5 out of 8 bolts and it took me looooong time to drill them out. They are hard shit.

 

EDIT: Hmmm, Subaru factory service manual says they are Torx Plus, although does not specify size.

Edited by unclemat
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As I picked up my motor with the fresh heads on it I asked them to rattle off my old flywheel with the torx T50 plus impact socket I had special ordered. FIRST MISTAKE! All over the legacy forums the T50 is supposed to fit. It is loose in the bolts though. I didn't see this and by the 4th bolt the tool was stuffed and they stripped the internal teeth on the bolt.

 

It's a "Torx Plus" bolt. TP50. Not quite the same as regular Torx.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx

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Yeah I ordered a torx plus, I think they got in the standard one and tried to cover their arse. The other trick is to give each a punch with a reasonably heavy drift first. The second lot came out like butter even though the bit was loose in them. I didn't care because the new flywheel came with normal bolts. Just love the car now though, sooo responsive.
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I'm going to order the Clutchmasters FX300 and I will put it in next weekend. I will be the first to try it. I will keep you all informed.
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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I'm going to order the Clutchmasters FX300 and I will put it in next weekend. I will be the first to try it. I will keep you all informed.

 

Damn I wish I just didnt fry my clutch I would love to know how that one does for you but I am going to order a bullydog clutch tomorrow

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  • 3 weeks later...
I'm also using a Bully clutch, Stage 1 (Kevlar & organic combo) in my OBXT with a resurfaced (Bully did it) dual-mass flywheel. It's a year old, 15,000km and it now slips in 5th gear. I spoke to Bully about it and they suggested four things that would make it slip:

1) contamination, any small bit of oil from the engine main seal or grease from the shaft

2) the Kevlar will glaze if slipped a lot and the glazing needs to be worn off through some hard starts

3) the pressure plate is not exerting enough pressure on the disk. They can adjust the pressure after bench testing it if it's not enough.

4) the disk is worn, the flywheel is worn, the pressure plate is worn

 

I'm hoping mine will hold till spring as I don't have a heated garage to work in. I'll take it in to them and have them test it. I also have my old clutch parts which they said they can rebuild which will reduce my down time and cost. So far customer service has been excellent and for me, they're only 15 minutes from home.

Dale

So my clutch is out and I popped over to Bully to see what they'd say about it...

My resurfaced DMFW didn't last very long with stage2 power levels. The heat appears to have caused the FW to warp a bit and then the clutch disc no longer makes contact with the entire FW surface.

The Bully Stage 1 disc and PP are still in good condition (wearing well) and a refurb job on them will make then usable to anyone with stock or stage 1 setup (PM me if interested). He tested the PP clamping force and he estimates it's good for up to about 450lb-ft of engine torque.

 

So I'm now upgrading to the Bully hybrid stage 2 disc with stage 4 PP mating up to an ACT Streetlite FW. The car should be back together next week.

Edited by dschultz
typo
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I had to wait for the TSK kit to come in. Everything is in including a new passenger side axle. I just have to hook the driveshaft to the rear diff.
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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  • 2 weeks later...
I just install the ClutchMaster FX300 setup with a stock '06 WRX flywheel. I finally took it for a drive yesterday. The pedal is about the same as stock if not lighter. It's easy to engage and drive. The only thing I got this clunck sound sometime when the clutch engages. Only when I'm driving not when I'm parked. What could it be? Is that the chatter people talk about?
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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For the SpecB/6MT folks the ACT HD Extreme (for 04-07 STi) is a very nice set up for more than stage 2 power. It is rated for 560+ftlbs. You can use the OEM 6MT flywheel or the STi Streetlight Flywheel.

 

Bryan, that clunk is not the chatter you hear on deceleration.

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I fixed it. The 2 front bolts on the tranny crossmember were loose. The clutch has a very smooth engagement and no chatter.
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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Today I finished up my Bully hybrid (stage 2 disc with stage 4 PP) mated up to an ACT Streetlite FW. Initial impression, I find the pedal feel is lighter than my old Bully Stage 1 setup.

Right now this thing is digital, and it all happens just millimetres from the floor. I'll have to get some kilometres on it to break it in. To be honest, I don't notice much difference between the dual-mass and solid WRX style FW. And unlike my previous clutch install, I haven't stalled my car -- yet ;-)

 

Bully did a great job for me...I got the "upgrade" price on the clutch & PP as I bought from them before. I dropped off the new FW to them so they could mate all the parts and check the tolerances. They found the FW had a 7 thou bulge in the mating surface and machined it down for me at no additional cost. They also included the alignemt tool, FW bearing & release bearing. I didn't need to do a TSK3 as the snout was in great shape. Just cleaned it up and re-lubed everything.

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Edited by dschultz
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  • 3 weeks later...

for some reason i dont feel like i should be listing these here but money is tight so these are my options. OEM replacement equivalents, i think.

AUTO COM

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Legacy/Auto_Com/Clutch_Kit/2005/GT/4_Cyl_2-dot-5L/ACI31-82014.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain

 

 

BECK/ARNLEY

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1430733&parttype=1993&a=FRc1430733k495301]

 

VALEO

http://www.oereplacement.com/partInfo.php?ID=R-52254805CK&make=SUBARU&model=LEGACY&syear=2005&eyear=2005#compat

 

EXEDY

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-FJK1001-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DL8Q/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=002]Amazon.com: EXEDY FJK1001 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit: Automotive[/ame]

 

where can i rent a transmission jack?? ive looked and looked but havent found anyplace that does. anyone in wi wanna help me do this?

Edited by instantfury
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Right now this thing is digital, and it all happens just millimetres from the floor. I'll have to get some kilometres on it to break it in.

 

When I got mine, the engagement point started low, but it got steadily higher over the next month or so.

 

I think when it stops climbing you can consider the break-in done. :)

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It's been two tanks of gas now and lots of down shifting during stops. The clutch is feeling really good and the engagement point is now higher than when I started. Quite comfortable now. I do notice a little shutter when the car is cold for the first few shifts then it goes away.

That old dual-mass FW sure did mask a lot of drive train noise.

And the best part of all is no more slipping under full boost in 5th gear :-)

I'm looking forward to many years of holding power from this setup.

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does the number of springs in the clutch disk have any bearing on quality? a couple of the ones i posted above have 6 springs while some have 4 springs. has anyone heard of those brands? also, one is 8 and 13/16ths and another is 8 7/8. which one should i get? i need to order within the next few hours, so if anyone can help me out thatd be great, Thanks! Edited by instantfury
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The springs are just to dampen the transition of power through the disc. In the end 4 or 6 should have the same strength overall.

As for the diameter, the disk has to be compatible with the FW and the PP, specifically it has to fit inside the PP housing when mounted. The disc and PP usually come together. A 1/16th of an inch won't matter.

Here's a Bully Stage 1 picture.

 

As for tools...join a local car club as many have community tools that you can borrow and possibly a few guys could help you out.

Edited by dschultz
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  • 1 month later...
for some reason i dont feel like i should be listing these here but money is tight so these are my options. OEM replacement equivalents, i think.

AUTO COM

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Legacy/Auto_Com/Clutch_Kit/2005/GT/4_Cyl_2-dot-5L/ACI31-82014.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain

 

 

BECK/ARNLEY

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1430733&parttype=1993&a=FRc1430733k495301]

 

VALEO

http://www.oereplacement.com/partInfo.php?ID=R-52254805CK&make=SUBARU&model=LEGACY&syear=2005&eyear=2005#compat

 

EXEDY

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-FJK1001-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DL8Q/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=002

 

where can i rent a transmission jack?? ive looked and looked but havent found anyplace that does. anyone in wi wanna help me do this?

I will say for the Exedy, You will need the 06 flywheel.

Found out earlier today after we pulled the transmission that the dual mass does not line up what so ever so you will need the new flywheel.

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From this thread:

Clutch Buying Guide - NASIOC

 

Some useful information on Clutchmasters clutches:

 

Using this chart:

http://www.clutchmasters.com/images/partNumberGuide.jpg

 

Here are the Torque Specs (for 06-08 WRX, which is the same clutch the LGT uses):

15-106-HD00-SF ...525 lbs

15-106-HDTZ-SF ...595 lbs

15-106-HDCB4-SF ...655 lbs

15-106-HDCB6-SF ...655 lbs

15-106-HDB4-SF ...655 lbs

15-106-HDB6-SF ...655 lbs

 

Some other gathered info on 06-08 WRX Clutches:

 

Company Name/Part Number/Torque capacity is the format.

 

Exedy 15804 287

South Bend Clutch STAGE 1 RALLY 316

Exedy 15952 326

South Bend Clutch STAGE 2 TZ 345

ACT SB5-HDMM 420

South Bend Clutch STAGE 3 OFE 450

ACT SB5-HDG6 537

ACT SB5-HDG4 537

ACT SB5-HDR6 537

ACT SB5-HDR4 537

South Bend Clutch STAGE 4 SS OFE 550

Exedy FM032XD 585

South Bend Clutch STAGE 4 SS FE 650

On the search for a new DD...
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I will say for the Exedy, You will need the 06 flywheel.

Found out earlier today after we pulled the transmission that the dual mass does not line up what so ever so you will need the new flywheel.

 

yea same here.... bought it as a kit from amazon that was "guaranteed to fit my vehicle" not so much. i was able to use the throw out bearing though. returned the rest because of time constraints adn for some reason was awarded a full refund even though parts were missing from the box.

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It's been two tanks of gas now and lots of down shifting during stops. The clutch is feeling really good and the engagement point is now higher than when I started. Quite comfortable now. I do notice a little shutter when the car is cold for the first few shifts then it goes away.

That old dual-mass FW sure did mask a lot of drive train noise.

And the best part of all is no more slipping under full boost in 5th gear :-)

I'm looking forward to many years of holding power from this setup.

 

I too have pretty much the same setup. Is your disk the full faced organic Kevlar still or full Kevlar? I went with the stage 4c setup full faced Kevlar disc and the act flywheel. I followed bullys recomendation and took a couple thou off the flywheel with a flywheel surface grinder to break thru the hardness and give it a radial arced grinding lines from center of the fw arcing out towards the outside similar to what you would see on thier pp. I have absolutely no shutter nor chatter. Even backing my trailer into the garage. Engagement was near the floor but has since moved up an inch. And full engagement comes after another 2-2.5 inches. This is a beautiful clutch smooth as silk. We will see how it holds up.

 

I didn't notice any more drivetrain noise increase but actually a decrease. But I also changed the trans fluid at the same time with valvoline 75-90.

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