93ej22 Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 alright guys well my 95 auto trans reverse's gear crapped out on me. im looking at getting a replacement sent my way as soon as I can. since I am going to have to pull it all out im looking at pulling and resealing the engine while its all apart, I also ordered the cv axle to replace my bad one. gonna try and do whatever I can while its apart has anyone solved the problem when you swap to a 5mt from an auto to keep them from throwing the 1706 code? would be nice to have a 5 speed but not worth it if I couldn't get it to run like it supposed to. suspension is next it is all real tired, and the engine is really weak the 93 we have pulls way harder than my 95 without trying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 P1702 is the code that is being thrown and there is a few of us with this issue still on the 95.. honestly my car runs perfectly fine aside from that annoying orange light on the dash.. i had been averaging around 30 mpg in the few months after the AT to MT swap.. So far I believe pin 80 and 20 have been grounded in an attempt to solve this on the '95..to no avail so here's to hoping someone with the info stumbles upon this thread, clearing the CEL daily is annoying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 yeah seems like I picked the one year that is hard to do much to because they had just switched to obd2. would be nearly impossible to get away with a engine swap and still pass emissions (thank god im not in cali at least) would love to have an eg33 under the hood when this 22 finally goes, would probably be easier to use a turbo ej for emmissions tho I gotta do some research and go over the wiring diagram and see what I can figure out about that code I rewired my truck front to back so hopefully I can track something down.. what does it say for the code cause? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 7, 2014 I Donated Share Posted October 7, 2014 I don't think the check engine light can be resolved on a 95. I did a 5mt conversion in my 95LSi and still haven't figured it out. Wiring diagrams in both the FSM and Alldata are wrong -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 95 just seems to be the black sheep, im wondering if the 96 diagram matches up with a 95? most places don't have a 95 listed as obd2 so im really not sure what the deal is. I sent an email to the guy at numbchuxconversions to see if he has any idea about wiring to drop in an eg33 into a 95 without throwing codes, maybe he has some insight on the trans swap wiring has anyone tried swapping to a 5 speed ecu? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 9, 2014 I Donated Share Posted October 9, 2014 95 just seems to be the black sheep, im wondering if the 96 diagram matches up with a 95? most places don't have a 95 listed as obd2 so im really not sure what the deal is. 96 is different. I've tried using 96 pinouts and it did not work. When I used the 95 pinouts, my OBDII port stopped communicating and my check engine light still stayed on (even after a hard reset AKA battery removal) I sent an email to the guy at numbchuxconversions to see if he has any idea about wiring to drop in an eg33 into a 95 without throwing codes Look up iWire about doing a wiring harness merge and the EG33 ECU. From there you will need to do the 5MT swap as if you were doing it on a SVX. There is a ton of documentation on it in the SVX forums. I haven't done an EG33 swap myself yet (it is on my never ending list of projects to do though) so I can't give you first hand advise here...but this link might be a good place to start reading up on it http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/search.php?searchid=1072446 has anyone tried swapping to a 5 speed ecu? It won't work unless you swap the 5 speed harness and intake manifold on. And then you have to plug the EGR port on the drivers side head. Yes, the entire intake manifold assembly is different (along with most of the crap attached to it). I learned this the hard way when I dropped an engine from an automatic car into a manual car. I was able to get it to run but it misfired so bad and would stall whenever I put it into gear and started to drive. Swapping over to the entire manual transmission engines intake manifold fixed the problem. There are other tid bits that will need to be swapped as well (ABS controller, cruise control, etc) The parts in the steering column are different as well (lock cylinder, switches, etc) however they share the same plugs between automatic and manual. I'm running a manual trans steering column in a car wired for an auto trans with no ill effects from it. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 iWonder if iWire would be able to pinpoint that pin it is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 9, 2014 I Donated Share Posted October 9, 2014 iWonder if iWire would be able to pinpoint that pin it is... I don't know why I didn't think about contacting Brian. I sent him a message on Facebook. Hopefully I'll hear back from him soon. As soon as I do I'll report back with what he has to say. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 9, 2014 I Donated Share Posted October 9, 2014 Brian with iWire got back to me. He says pin 30 is the one we seek. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 so did this age old problem finally just get solved by pin #30? let me know if one of you tries that o nan unrelated note it looks like I may be digging deep into my car this week im pretty sure my timing belt just went when I was on the freeway, was coming out of a highway to highway onramp on the gas got a nice TING, engine died right away and refused to restart. so I may have a toasted engine and a dying transmission. sounds like it may be time to swap drivetrain or cars at this point im finding mixed information on this engine, is a 95 interference or no? I have some sources saying post 93 is interference and some saying post 97 is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 negative on the 95 EJ22E being interference.. they usually are the most reliable of all the subie motors... that being said, ive managed to crack a piston in half in one... as for the pin...i'll be able to attempt to ground #30 on sunday at the earliest..thats awesome..I'd imagine you gave him a rundown on our issue yeah, john? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 THANK GOD! I was about to be really upset if I had to start over with another engine I am way too broke for that right now. hoping all is still okay inside, will have to yank the covers off and see what actually got messed up in there, I know I heard something I didn't like come from up there and it died immediately so that seems like a timing belt issue to me. will have to dig into it and let you know later. and if you can make the CEL go away with a manual swap I will be looking into that as a much more viable option to get rid of the reverseless 4eat I have now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 11, 2014 I Donated Share Posted October 11, 2014 im finding mixed information on this engine, is a 95 interference or no? I have some sources saying post 93 is interference and some saying post 97 is The post 93 idea came from Wikipedia and its wrong. I actually edited that page last night to reflect the CORRECT information. A 95 2.2 is NOT interference. I snapped the belt in mine recently and just slapped on a new one and was good to go. This is a picture of what happened to my belt when my engine was racing at 6,000RPM -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 11, 2014 I Donated Share Posted October 11, 2014 as for the pin...i'll be able to attempt to ground #30 on sunday at the earliest..thats awesome..I'd imagine you gave him a rundown on our issue yeah, john? Yeah, I explained everything to him. I'll give pin30 a shot a soon as I'm able to as well. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 that is one mangled belt! hopefully I will have time to tear into my engine tomorrow and see if the timing set is what gave out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 rained pretty good today. hoping tomorrow is a bit nicer I don't get to work on it under cover this time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 gonna try my damnedest to get out there tomorrow and get the timing covers off, weather has been the typical fall in SW WA tons of rain and lots of grey, I broke a couple of the plastic bolt holes on the covers last time when I changed the water pump so hopefully I can get it on and off without more damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 either of you guys try the pin 30 fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 finally had time to go get the stuff out of the way so I could pull the side covers and it was definitely my timing belt it snapped right off. didn't have time to get the crank pulley and center cover off but I picked up a new belt and my by breaker bar to get that done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 don't be surprised if you find the toothed idler pulley to be bad. that is the most common failure point. the belts rarely ''snap''. they can and do fail, but usually because an idler fails first. i would buy an entire kit, belt, 3 idlers, plus the idler for the tensioner. no need to replace the piston type tensioner unless it is bad, they rarely fail. water pump maybe, how old is it? they don't last forever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 water pump is new only about 1.5K miles at most, im thinking when I changed it I put the belt back on backwards and it got stressed in the other direction and gave out under acceleration. but I will know here as soon as the rain stops. hopefully it wasn't an idler but I had heard they are usually what goes first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 well I twisted off my 1/2-3/8 adapter trying to get the crank bolt off with a 3/8 22mm socket so I gotta swing by my dads and borrow a 1/2" drive 22mm socket and a cheater pipe, I used a 3" piece of steel pipe on my breaker bar to remove and re tighten it last time and it worked great I did get everything else out of the way radiator is in the back and all the cover bolts are off I just need to get the pulley off and I can take a look, how can I tell if the idler is bad? will it be visibly blown out like a shot bearing or will I have to feel it for rattle or a locked bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 alright got the new belt on, the idlers were fine it must have been a mistake I made installing the belt the last time. running to my dads place to put the tensioner in the vise and should have it together in time for work tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 got it going this morning after work, it runs and drives great now other than the lack of reverse... I think I may have had a cam a tooth off when I did the water pump because it doesn't seem quite as sluggish but that may just be me also pulled a screw out of my back pass side tire and sealed that up. still have a long to do list for this car ahead of me while I was at the yard I was looking around at a few of the legacy's and the one impreza they had, anything that had a turbo from the factory had the whole engine pulled already even the one that was totaled in the front . I have only found one that still had the turbo engine still in place at the yard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 finally got my new snow tires mounted on the nicer set of 14" steelies I picked up a while back, I like the look of the wheels a little better and the tires are a real aggressive tread pattern will have to get some pics posted tomorrow going to be working on this car as I can afford the parts so will likely be a slow process but over time I have a lot planned for it, thankfully I got a better job a couple weeks ago and am making more. transmission is top of my list by far, It still works for commuting and if I am really picky about where I park I don't have to push it lol. so I may take the extra time to gather parts and swap over to a 5 speed I did notice rockauto has wrx and sti struts available (separate part #s so they have the right stuff listed for both) but I would like to get myself a nice used set of wrx or sti coilovers if I can save up for a bit, and of course strut bars, need to add a rear sway bar as im cursed with a 95 L, and probably a little beefier front bar. lots of improvement to be had, maybe some wrx brakes, will see what my budget looks like when i get a couple more pay checks im debating pretty hard over how I would like to handle the engine/drive in this one, I went way overboard when I did my truck and I would like to keep this one a little less expensive and a lot quicker turn around since I have a 95 I guess I have the best 22e heads to put on a 25d block with a little porting and a cam grind so that may be my route with some equal length headers and misc supporting mods. i will try to gather up parts while i wait for my 4eat to lose the forward gears and need to be pulled. hoping to find a 25d with blown head gaskets on craigslist or in a yard when i have a few bucks in the bank and jump on it. i was thinking about going nuts and throwing some boost at it or a eg33 swap but it just isn't worth the headaches or money, i would rather dump that money into the suspension and have a car that handles really well with less overall power but a nice tq curve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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