terrible001 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 so i'm chasing down an oil leak and think i have pin pointed it to my turbo oil return line, i replaced the rubber hose and clamp in between the 2 metals lines but my leak appears to be coming from the metal line that goes into the head. does this part even come off? i'm having trouble and afraid to muscle it out in case its not meant to be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Not meant to be removed. Are you sure the leak is at the head and not coming down the hose or higher up on the turbo ? Can you get a picture of it ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGT-CO Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Im having a similar issue with my VF40. I seem to be leaking oil from the oil return flange that bolts to the turbo. It leaks slowly. This is the second time I have had a leak from this location. What a PITA. Ill have to remove the turbo soon to replace the gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGT-CO Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 subscribe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible001 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 its not so bad removing the turbo, 1st time is kinda tough but it looks like more work than it is. however my oil return is leaking at the metal pipe that comes out of the head. still havn't been able to find any info on it at all so i'm gunna see what i can do with some hightemp RTV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Are you sure the pipe from the head is leaking or just the old rubber hose ? Your saying the joint where the pipe enters the head ? http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4770_zpsefb30f6c.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGTwagon99 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 I am having a similar issue, an oil leak from the banjo bolt in the rear of the head, shown in that picture ^. I tried new copper washers, but found that there is a small imperfection on the mating surface where the washer should seal between the head and the bolt. Not really sure what to do yet, thought about maybe trying to file or sand it down until the groove is gone. So just make sure that mating surface is clean and smooth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Are you applying enough torque to crush the crush washer? Put a 17mm box wrench on it and snug her down a little more maybe? The banjo will break when it's too much torque Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible001 Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 yes that small pipe coming out of the head is whats leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGTwagon99 Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 I just had that line off to send the heads to the machine shop. I reused the washers on the bolt, and have had no leak problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 yes that small pipe coming out of the head is whats leaking Clean the area really well and use JB Weld. There's no pressure there so you should be fine with that. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible001 Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 thanks man will do that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Hose it down with brake cleaner really well, then wash it with lacquer thinner, and then JB weld and it will stick well. You can use the very thick type JB weld putty and force it into the area around the tube and it should stick fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 I just had that line off to send the heads to the machine shop. I reused the washers on the bolt, and have had no leak problems. I can't remember the last time I replaced a copper or aluminum washer on a banjo bolt connection of any kind, and I've never had one leak. They're soft for a reason-so they will form and re-form over imperfections. I even reuse them on brake calipers and have never had an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PutnamCO Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 I can't remember the last time I replaced a copper or aluminum washer on a banjo bolt connection of any kind, and I've never had one leak. They're soft for a reason-so they will form and re-form over imperfections. I even reuse them on brake calipers and have never had an issue. Agreed. If I find an imperfection, putting the washer on a wire (coat hanger works well) and heating it up with a blowtorch refreshes them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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