caramall2 Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 UPDATE: After resurfacing and SS-M pads, still had vibration problem, I think it was even worse. Dealer replaced rotors and now the brakes work great. Only issue: Slightly rough under 10 mph because the pads apparently can take several hundred miles to bed in properly. Bottom line, in this case it was warped rotors (perhaps the deposits added to the problem, but the rotors were still warped). ----------------------ORIGINAL POST------------- I thought I'd put this out to the whole site (I had tacked it on to an exisiting thread). I had the classic "warp" rotors, deposits on the rotors, or whatever the cause....I went ahead and had the dealer resurface the rotors and install Endless SS-M pads (P.S. They said they wouldn't resurface under warrantee--just wear and tear; unfortunatly I was short for time and the only dealer in probably 100+ miles). When I drove the car, it seemed better but noticed a slight vibration. After several days it's still there. Heres the scoop: - Light/medium braking, if I only have one hand on the wheel it shakes slightly (firm 2 hands and you can't really see it--only feel it very slightly). Firm breaking and it seems to go away. - As I come to a stop, when I'm under about 10 mph, you can hear a "creak, creak, creak" at the rotors turn--almost like a the rotors have a bad "spot" on them. Thoughts? Maybe some minor vibration is to be expected. Just wish I could get firm, non-vibrating braking. Someone suggested the rotor metal in one spot may be changed, etc., causing the problem even if the rotors aren't warped. Thanks all. AC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Either : - the rotor is hotspotted - the dealer didn't resurface them evenly - the front brake pads/backing plate/shims are not seated correctly. - the wheels were overtorqued I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted June 24, 2006 Author Share Posted June 24, 2006 Thanks for the info. On the wheel overtorquing, can I do this with the stock tire iron? Can you "see" anything to indicate hot spotting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 Either : - the rotor is hotspotted - the dealer didn't resurface them evenly - the front brake pads/backing plate/shims are not seated correctly. - the wheels were overtorqued +1 +1 +1 +1 Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Update: Rotors were resurfaced but still warped. Getting new rotors under warrantee. One clear sign the tech said is if it makes a "scrunching/creaking sound" like scrunching a rubber ballon when you're braking at slow speeds (e.g. under 10 mph). That's the calipers making the noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Odd that your brakes were warped, maybe they were not torqued properly. Anyway warranty should take care of that quite nicely! Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Odd that your brakes were warped, maybe they were not torqued properly. Anyway warranty should take care of that quite nicely! Brakes should NEVER shudder! Period, end of story. "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted July 16, 2006 Author Share Posted July 16, 2006 UPDATE: After resurfacing and SS-M pads, still had vibration problem, I think it was even worse. Dealer replaced rotors and now the brakes work great. SO GOOD to crank on the brakes at 70 mph and no vibrations, etc., just firm solid braking. Only issue: Slightly rough under 10 mph because the pads apparently can take several hundred miles to bed in properly. P.S. Another benefit is virtually no brake dust with SS-Ms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 UPDATE: After resurfacing and SS-M pads, still had vibration problem, I think it was even worse. Dealer replaced rotors and now the brakes work great. SO GOOD to crank on the brakes at 70 mph and no vibrations, etc., just firm solid braking. Only issue: Slightly rough under 10 mph because the pads apparently can take several hundred miles to bed in properly. P.S. Another benefit is virtually no brake dust with SS-Ms Good to hear. I will have to compare with my bobcats. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted July 16, 2006 Author Share Posted July 16, 2006 I think you'll find them to not have as much initial bite as your BCs from what I've read. They feel very solid though. Keefe noted the same about initial bite, but he likes a little less initial bite from what he wrote. I don't have much experience, but do like the legacy's more linear braking compared to some passenger cars. Was driving another car the other day, pressed lightly/moderately on the brake pedal and jerked drastically as the brakes were so touchy and power assist so strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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