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REmoved my Front Sway Bar - turn in is now AWESOME!!!


rao

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So my lap timer was showing that I was losing a few thousandths on my daily autocross course and I was hearing an annoying clunk from under my car.

 

I decided to have a look under my car and wouldn't you know it, one of the front sway bar links was broken :eek: I removed the link and since I didn't have any lying around due to my sloppy inventory control I removed the entire bar so that it didn't fop around and scratch my tire rod ends.

 

The car's handling is not INCREDIBLE!!!! Turn in is almost as good as in a Mustang V6 :D

 

I may not reinstall the bar. I know a lot of people install larger rear sway bars, but installing a smaller front sway bar is the same thing and having no sway bar in the front is like an infinitely small bar!

 

On a side note, the rear O2 sensor also decided that it had enough and it failed. MY SUBARU IS FALLING APART :eek: I guess everyone is right.

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Oh the sarcasm in this thread.....though I was being serious about the sway bar being disabled in the BB6

 

So what should I do....I just installed my Whiteline Adjustable links in the front....take them back off now?

 

I mean they weight a whole 3 lbs each, and then I can take off the COBB bar.....another 4 lbs.

 

10 lbs off the front of the car.....oh man, the possibilities

-Travis

Rob (rao) you're a fine gentleman, thanks I guess.
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...

 

The car's handling is not INCREDIBLE!!!! Turn in is almost as good as in a Mustang V6 :D

 

...

 

Depending on the vintage of the Mustang, these two sentences may agree with each other, and I may agree with them both...

06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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Here are a few other free mods:

 

1) Debadge. This saves weight at the very extremes of the car.

 

2) Drop tire pressure by 2 or 3 psi. This reduces the unsprung mass your Legacy will have to deal with, and improve performance.

 

3) Improve throttle response by replacing the Intercooler with a piece of PVC pipe. That way you get a smooth custom fit, sure to improve performance AND save weight and drop the CG.

 

4) Don't worry about lowering springs, just load the car up with sand-bags, then snug some zipties around the springs. A few hundred will easily do the trick. Use the sand-bags to fine-tune ride height for that racing look. After the ties are in place, remove the sandbags.

 

5) Drain out a quart of oil. It'll save weight, and the car is designed to work throughout the WHOLE range from E to F. Also, remove the oil-can light behind the gauge cluster. It'll save weight, and prevent a bright amber light from illuminating low in your field of vision, that could distract you and cause an accident.

 

6) Just run inner brake pads, and block the sliders on the caliper. That way the inner pads will engage, and you won't have to worry about wearing through rotors. This will save weight in two manners, first simply from unsprung mass removal. The second, is removing weight from the periphery of the rotation of the wheel/tire/control-arm system. This reduces it's angular inertia and helps the suspension to work better. In addition, the decrease in weight means the brakes will have improved feel and response.

 

7) Remove the uppipe. This will nearly eliminate backpressure, ensuring a free-flowing system that will make more power.

 

I can't think of any others, but perhaps others can add to this list.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Wow...so much sarcasm and some truth in this thread...Sways don't only reduce body roll but they are also used for balancing the front and rear. Thats why your aftermarket front sway may be 75% stiffer but the aftermarket rear is like 180% stiffer than stock...WOW better turn in. Why? because the balance front and rear are different than stock.

 

Thread to check out if you don't believe me:http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1981716

 

Check the mod list...

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I suppose my choice of endlink oil might be to blame. I will have to run an oil analysis on it to see what happened.

 

That's the problem right there. You oiled a moving part? What were you thinking??? I hope for your sake you used an all natural synthetic...

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  • 1 year later...
I get that this whole thread is a joke, but how come no one has pointed out the obvious logical flaw in the original post? Rao says he detected the broken link when his autocross times fell off. Then, he says his times improved when he removed the bar. Clearly, a bar attached by only one link is the same as no bar. See?
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