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DIY: Replace "wood" trim with "silver" trim


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So the "wood" trim on the 2010-2012 Limited bugs me. It really bugs me. It doesn't even look like wood. I would have prefered the faux wood used on IKEA furniture because that, at least, looks like wood.

 

We can debate the quality of the trim pieces and different ways to paint or cover the "wood" trim with vinyl, etc., but I felt like the "silver" pieces looked better. Plus it's OEM. That was worth it to me.

 

Having said all that, here's how I replaced my "wood" trim with the "silver" trim from the base/premium models.

 

PARTS

There's seven pieces total. Here are the part numbers...

Front door left: 94218AJ05A

Front front right: 94218AJ04A

Rear front left: 94228AJ05A

Rear front right: 94228AJ04A

Steering column - rectangular piece: 66077AJ00A

Steering column - small triangle piece: 66076AJ02A

Glove box: 66076AJ03A

 

Here's where the various parts are listed in the parts catalog on SPW with prices:

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j387/kierluorg/Subaru/Outback/49a0837b.jpg

 

Glove box & steering column pieces are labeled titanium, but it's the same as silver. I couldn't find where the small triangle piece is listed in the catalog. I had to give the VIN for a base/premium Legacy/Outback to the parts dept at a dealership for them to get me a correct part number.

 

TOOLS

Phillips screwdriver

Trim removal tool or a flat head screwdriver

Painters tape or rag to protect the trim you don't want to scratch

 

INSTALLATION

I originally tried to find someone to trade with, but this would've meant taking everything apart to remove the trim, putting everything back together, and shipping it off. I'd then have to wait 5+ days to get the silver trim pieces, then remove all the panels again and reinstall. A tad too long and too much effort for the cost of buying the trim myself and doing everything at once.

 

All the steps are already online in one thread or another so I'll just consolidate and link to relevant posts.

 

Front/Rear Doors

*Use painters tape to cover the painted surfaces on the b-pillar side of the doors/window openings before you remove the door cards. I ended up with some small scratches that had to be touched up.

 

Steering column (left side)

 

Steering column (small triangle on the right side)

*This was the scariest part since you have to pull the trim piece around the stereo.

 

Glove box

 

All told, it took about 2hrs to replace all the pieces and put everything back together.

 

Side by side of "wood" vs "silver"

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j387/kierluorg/Subaru/Outback/c034ff09.jpg

 

subarupartswarehouse.com also has the trim in wood (bleh) and carbon fiber (too dark with a black interior).

 

Each of these is approx $400 + shipping for all the pieces. The silver was $116 + shipping. They usually have 15-20% off discounts so look for those.

 

P.S. I take no responsibility for your actions. This is just what I've done. I am by no means a Subaru tech or another kind of expert.

 

P.P.S. Big thanks to those that posted the various DIYs on how to remove the different trim pieces.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Just ordered the silver trim pieces today. I had originally covered my oem wood trim with a Remin carbon fiber dash kit. Problem with the dash kit is that it doesn't cover it 100% so you can still see some of the original trim. Plus, it's a PITA to keep clean. I've also considered Plasti Dipping the oem trim instead.
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I like the wood better than the silver...guess the grass is always greener. I would be willing to trade anyone would would like the silver for their wood trim.

 

Have you taken a close look at the OEM wood? The grain is pixelated, they should be able to do better...

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Maybe better...anyone who bought the silver to replace the wood trim want an even $100 for their old wood (as long as it is in good shape) to compensate for their purchase.
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Maybe better...anyone who bought the silver to replace the wood trim want an even $100 for their old wood (as long as it is in good shape) to compensate for their purchase.

 

Where are you located?

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Have you taken a close look at the OEM wood? The grain is pixelated, they should be able to do better...

 

This. Its plastic wood. They should be able to do better. Because how much more does less crappy plastic wood cost to design/manufacture??

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  • 2 weeks later...

Front/Rear Doors

*Use painters tape to cover the painted surfaces on the b-pillar side of the doors/window openings before you remove the door cards. I ended up with some small scratches that had to be touched up.

 

Steering column (left side)

 

Steering column (small triangle on the right side)

*This was the scariest part since you have to pull the trim piece around the stereo.

 

Glove box

 

 

I found the steering column and glove box pieces to be the quickest and easiest. Pulling the door cards wasn't hard, but I'm having a b1tch of a time disconnecting the door lock cables.

 

Btw, does anyone know what purpose those Frankenstein-looking bolts on the bottom of the rear doors serve? I was thinking something to do with the rear anchor system but can't find any reference to them in the manual.

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  • 1 year later...

I have all the trim swapped out except the little piece on the right of the steering wheel, how do I get the nav/radio bezel off? Also, anyway to replace the little piece of wood trim on top of the transmission shifter??

 

Thanks

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I did this a few weeks back. One thing you have to do is remove the plastic under where you feet are located. Should be 2screws to the right and then 2toward the left where you're parking brake is located. Its going to be an EXTREMELY tight fit but directly behind that little triangle piece is a screw that holds it in place. I'm not a big guy so I layed on my back and used a 12inch connector with a pivoting head in order to get the angle on it rather that removing the center console. Wish I had pics for you but all the other prices are cake, however that Lil guy is a royal pain .
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I did this a few weeks back. One thing you have to do is remove the plastic under where you feet are located. Should be 2screws to the right and then 2toward the left where you're parking brake is located. Its going to be an EXTREMELY tight fit but directly behind that little triangle piece is a screw that holds it in place. I'm not a big guy so I layed on my back and used a 12inch connector with a pivoting head in order to get the angle on it rather that removing the center console. Wish I had pics for you but all the other prices are cake, however that Lil guy is a royal pain .

 

I was able to do all mine without having to do all that.

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