SATSFYD Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Taking notes. **There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wsmith30132 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 I have a SS-18GXR on order and was wondering if I need to to do anything different to run this kit with a BB CHRA housing? I am not familer with where the BB CHRA oil restriction resides in the system, banjo bolt? I already have the V1 kit, any assistance you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 The turbo manufacturer should be supplying the restrictor for a BB turbo. Different manufacturers use different style fittings to accomplish the restriction. Kit might not work. I have never seen a SS turbo as they are brand new releases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wsmith30132 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Well I guess worst case scenario someone might be getting a great deal on a V1 kit in the market place. I'll contact them and see what they say. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 18, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 18, 2014 Hey Mike, having a bit of an issue here. Long story short, the fitting on the end of the ID fuel rail is too close to the double banjo bolt: http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/06A4A794-615D-4856-99FE-B281A1C70332-428-000000C6DFEFB6DC_zpsa58f96cf.jpg No room to even fit things in, much less tighten the banjo bolt down. If you have any ideas on extending the AN fitting somehow to get some of the "bulk" out of the way that would be awesome. Don't think it's really feasible to consider moving the oil line fitting. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 19, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 19, 2014 I think my plan is to take a dremel to the AN fitting--will hopefully get me just enough clearance to make things work. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 I'm blowing oil out of the filter where it screws together. Anyone else seen this? Ill probably just grab the v2 upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Hey Mike, having a bit of an issue here. Long story short, the fitting on the end of the ID fuel rail is too close to the double banjo bolt: http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/06A4A794-615D-4856-99FE-B281A1C70332-428-000000C6DFEFB6DC_zpsa58f96cf.jpg No room to even fit things in, much less tighten the banjo bolt down. If you have any ideas on extending the AN fitting somehow to get some of the "bulk" out of the way that would be awesome. Don't think it's really feasible to consider moving the oil line fitting. Use a different AN fitting (like coming out of the rail in a 90deg instead of a straight). Never fit test with an ID conversion rail. Or, llift the rail and mount the oil line, then replace the rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 I'm blowing oil out of the filter where it screws together. Anyone else seen this? Ill probably just grab the v2 upgrade. Internal o-ring failed or was damaged at some point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Internal o-ring failed or was damaged at some point? Could be. I put a lot of miles on this car though so I want to fix it soon. How can I get an upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 19, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 19, 2014 Use a different AN fitting (like coming out of the rail in a 90deg instead of a straight). Never fit test with an ID conversion rail. Or, llift the rail and mount the oil line, then replace the rail. Yeah, that's a possibility--although with the o-ring fitting that goes to the rail, even the elbow shaped adapters have the hex piece that is causing the clearance issue built into the fitting :/ Will mess with it some this evening. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Could be. I put a lot of miles on this car though so I want to fix it soon. How can I get an upgrade? PM me. Upgrade is $75 for current kit owners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Yeah, that's a possibility--although with the o-ring fitting that goes to the rail, even the elbow shaped adapters have the hex piece that is causing the clearance issue built into the fitting :/ Will mess with it some this evening. Let me know how it works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 19, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 19, 2014 Let me know how it works out. Will do. Any thoughts on the other message I sent? Any issue with just installing the double banjo into the back of the head where the filtered banjo normally is and just routing the filtered line starting there? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 Other than it is a ROYAL Pita no issues. It works. But it is a VERY tight fit. I normally would not recommend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 20, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 20, 2014 Let me know how it works out. Went the dremel route. It worked just fine, me thinks. Here are some pics: http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/7741C1C5-B8BD-4570-916C-FA6BACA432A3-428-000001FDF6C6A747_zps43a0aa91.jpg http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/A37C76E3-24CB-44DD-9966-9A266C0D3264-428-000001FDFD502526_zps95eccb87.jpg http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/F723A3B1-4CA5-4080-825A-B3EEB9E6B514-428-000001FE00E30A66_zps29597673.jpg http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/7C76F333-F2EC-4577-84D4-8EB01471031C-428-000001FE05B44D70_zpse6116e29.jpg It was just enough material removed that I could get a socket on the banjo bolt. I also chose not to remove any material from the ORB fitting side to prevent any possible o-ring sealing issues. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 Looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallysquirrel Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 You see the aluminum item below standing up(before anodizing). Wouldn't it be cheaper to produce if the machine shop started with a HEX and turned it to a RD. All the other parts are made that way. I assume it's aluminum 6061-T6511 since that would be cheapest to obtain? Unless that's a different grade and they don't make a HEX as is case with Alcoas 6020. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3644-4-1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 That cap is not turned. it is made on a CNC, not a lathe. The other parts are made on a lathe. Difference is the tool used to make it. Final cost is cheaper using the CNC. CNC makes for a more "polished" look as well. Caps are now anodized black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Tango Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Can someone tell if its possible to replace the hard line going from the OEM turbo to the location underneath the manifold of an 07 spec.B? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Tango Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Whoops.. I mean only the hardline going from those two point, and not the third one. My friend gave my a SS line with opposite end banjos with bolts, so I'm curious if its going to work. He has done it to his 04 STi and his 09. Not LGT, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Yes, it can be replaced. Beginning oil galley is under the turbo inlet tube. Easiest to get to with the turbo out. The ending location is the passenger side OCV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Tango Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 On the second banjo bolt, the one underneath the manifold, it has a two-sided banjo bolt. Lines on opposite sides. How does that work? I've been doing a solid amount of research, and all I can find is kits with all three so it makes me skeptical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 A cap seals off the line going to the turbo. All the oil goes forward to the passenger side OCV. The "t" is moved there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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