sooberoo Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 First, I have a 2005 legacy GT with a JDM GT Bilstein suspension (Rev.C?). Original front sway bar, cobb rear sway and reinforcement brackets and stock end links. I've had some issues with clunking and creaking in the rear and my shop made some adjustments but mentioned that the end links were developing some play in them. In response I purchased the Kartboy end link kit that contains front and rear dog bones and mounting hardware. The bag containing the front dog bones included four spacers (bigger than washers). There were no instructions or pictures. The install links from the kartboy website while helpful were for a Forester XT, so unknown if the same applies for the Legacy GT I was wondering if anyone could post some pictures of the Kartboy front and rear end links installed, specifically pictures showing where the darn spacers go? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lieutenantcolumbo Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 http://www.fastwrx.com/kabialdr.html: Kartboy Endlink Spacers http://ep.yimg.com/ca/Img/trans_1x1.gifThese spacers are required when using Kartboy front endlinks with Whiteline front anti-roll bars. Set of 4. They are for the front sway bar (fsb). I have a Perrin 22mm fsb and I did not use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.hicksta Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Google is your friend I've had Kartboy endlinks three times. The most recent time I installed them (a little over a week ago) I didn't use the spacers and I have Whiteline sway bars. You'll see it's damn near impossible to use the spacers once you're under the car. Just make sure you're doing the install while the suspension is under load. Don't learn the hard way like I did http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a225/therectifier1616/IMG_20110228_124404.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 The one time I installed sway bars (Cobb, stock endlinks), I did not have the suspension loaded. Huh. That could explain some things... Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Mine is almost like the above photo, but I didn't need to use the lower spacers to make the end links vertical (front set). Rear didn't require any for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.hicksta Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 The spacers are for the fronts only. Rears were never an issue for me, but I've wrestled with the fronts before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Funny, the hardest part of the install was removing the OEM Front Right end link since the nut decided to round off. NEW TOOLS ACQUIRED (Dremel and cold chisels). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sooberoo Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Thanks for the replies and photographs. I did come across the thread about the Whitelines requiring the spacers late last night, well after the fact. The vendor I purchased the end link kit from (Touge Tuning) also provided me with comment this morning that the spacers would not be needed as I am running the stock front sway bar. I am kinda pi$$ed with my garage though. The shop has conducted some great work for me in the past and I have never had any complaints about them. You'd think that they would have thought that they should have loaded the suspension for the install (That's what had to be done during during the suspension install on my Miata). Their boss is away on holiday so I am sure that the monkeys are all screwing the pooch until he returns. Either that or the owner is the brain trust over there..... I may dig out the ramps and give this a shot myself. But now that I have said that, all the bolts that I would need to access have probably magically rusted tight so that I won't be able to budge them with my tools at hand (sort of a Murphy's Law thing with me:lol:) Sorry, tending to drift off topic. Again thanks to all for your advice and happy motoring! Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tito_b0y Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I may dig out the ramps and give this a shot myself. But now that I have said that, all the bolts that I would need to access have probably magically rusted tight so that I won't be able to budge them with my tools at hand (sort of a Murphy's Law thing with me:lol:) Sorry, tending to drift off topic. Again thanks to all for your advice and happy motoring! Cheers! Before you get under your car, I suggest getting/borrowing a sawzall to cut off the stock endlinks. Trust me. It's not worth the cursing, sweating, back-cramping and scraping of the knuckles 2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ 2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 In retrospect... The sawzall would have worked better cutting the shaft on the endlink instead of the dremel on the nut, but now I have acquired new tools ! PBlaster should be a requisite for any work under the car as well. Great stuff. Use liberally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Why are they so difficult to undo? These cars are not THAT old.... I've got a nice milwaukee sawzall if the going gets tough, but they are still physically attached throug the eyehole of the sway bar...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.hicksta Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 PB Blaster FTMFW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Why are they so difficult to undo? These cars are not THAT old.... I've got a nice milwaukee sawzall if the going gets tough, but they are still physically attached throug the eyehole of the sway bar...? I didn't have any trouble at all on the nuts until the front right. It just wasn't meant to be I also was using a 12-point socket and not a 6-point like I should have been Me not smart at 11pm (Was using a 1/2" ratchet but didn't think to use my adapter to get the 3/8" 6 point on) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lieutenantcolumbo Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Yeah, mine were bad. The front allen wrench holes stripped pretty quick and I had to clamp vice grips on the back side to keep the bolts from spinning. What engineer thought that design would work? Lot of PB Blaster was used. Rears were hella tight too, but at least there was a wrench fitting on the them. I took a break and contemplated cutting them off or heating up the nuts, but in the end I just wrenched them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I didn't even read the directions for removal. I read about the allen slot afterward. I just used vise grips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tito_b0y Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 My rears weren't bad at all, I still have both of them intact and in my trunk. The fronts, however, were a bitch and a half. Like the others said, my allen slots stripped PDQ and I didn't have a sawzall. So I gave up, left them loose (I couldn't even re-tighten them) and brought it over to AZP for them to cut the bastards off. It was very satisfying and a little unnerving watching them take a huge electric saw to my car 2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ 2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sooberoo Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 Well I ended up installing the links myself, with the car sitting on ramps to load the suspension. Getting the old links off was a complete beotch! Had to saw off one of the rears and of course I only have a dremel tool..... Fifteen of those wee cutting blades later and I could have purchased a cheapo grinder or sawsall. I definitely recommend using the allen wrench to take off the fronts. The new kartboy links went in with minimum effort once the battle with the stock links was over. Torqued them all to 35 and went for a drive. Turn in is wicked quick, but the best news is that the rear end clunking is gone! I am in love with my car again! Thanks to everyone for their advice and pictures. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbrown Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 For those who bought the kartboy front endlinks, did you get new bolts? I only received the washers and links.... It's gonna suck taking my old links off, my car is 6 years old with torn endlinks.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Yeah...It's supposed to come with all new hardware. And sooberoo, I cut all 4 of my endlinks with a dremel lol and it only took 2 wheels...how are you cutting lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Oh and the real trick to using a dremel is to loosen the nut first then cut the endlink in half =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 We are a KB dealer and all kits come with the bolts and washers and nuts. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbrown Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Thanks xero287 & azp installs, they forget to send them but may go get some screws just because im going on vacation and wanted this done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbrown Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Forgot to mention I've sprayed my old endlinks everyday with pb blaster until i can do the install tomorrow will tell you how it goes : ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 DO NOT JUST GET bolts and washers. If you do MAKE sure that the washers are the same size as the rubber bushing (the outer diameter) If they aren't then you risk your bolt putting extra strain on the washer and eventually piercing the bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Oh, and if you need help you can just pm me since I'm in MD too lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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