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innovate lc1 not fitting in megan dp????


tingtang

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Well searched and didn't find... or I'm still a noob and overlooked it.. so I took my car to get the innovate lc-1 WBo2 sensor put in... and they told me that the bung that came on the MR DP wasn't drilled big enough?? The threads matched up but they said the rest of the o2 will not fit inside?? I don't know y MR would do this.... make a bung which threads meet up but then not have a hole big enough to fit the sensor itself??? Anyone else have had issuew/problems with this?? Or if someone can link it if they know of one... thanks!
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That's pretty sad if they didn't make the whole big enough. I just had a bung install the other day....I drilled the hole myself with a unibit (Irwin) and then had a muffler shop weld on the bung in just a couple minutes for $10. Worked out great.

 

If you're having issues, I'd just do that....the LC-1 comes with an extra bung. I'd mount it a good 12" or more away from the turbo. Some do fine, but others have problems getting consistent readings if it's too close to the turbo.

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yea... thats what they said they had to do.... i dont understand y megan racing would make a bung for the down pipe... and then not make the actual hole the sensor goes to big enough?? i was just wondering if i gotta defective one or if anyone else had experienced this problem too... really sad if u ask me... but they said they would have to just weld the other bung down more...
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  • 4 weeks later...
so has anyone had trouble with the lc1 mounted right next to the turbo?? mine reads for a little then just craps out.... i plan on moving the bung further down...

 

 

Were you ever able to get it calibrated right? My sensor is inches right after the turbo, no problems in 4 months in that location. What do you mean it craps out, as in loses all power or gives bad readings? If it is cutting out, I would assume you have a short... did you do the install yourself?

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^ i remember urs bein right next to the turbo... mine is in almost the exact same spot... i never got around to calibrating it... but it was still reading numbers at least... now it comes on for a little bit.. reads some numbers.. then as soon as my car warms up it just sits at 7.4... so i read the error code it flashes on the red LED... and it turns out its either a bad sensor or the sensor is overheating... it gave 8 flashes, paused, then 8 flashes.... im hoping the sensor is just overheating... i have heard some people have problems with it being that close some people dont... so im going to try and move it back some... maybe closer to my rear o2 and see how that works... it craps out pretty early though... i would think the sensor needs to get pretty hot in order to overheat.... imma get it done this saturday so hopefully that fixes... if not i guess im just SOL... do they sell the sensor seperately?? i havent seen them sold with just the thing that goes into the bung but i could be wrong... oh and no i didnt install myself... there were too many wires i didnt wanna mess anything up, because i kno i would have... lol
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- They do sell sensors separate (with the LC-1 plug on it) -- I got a dealer on EBay that was going to give me one for like 70 or 80

 

- I moved mine down the pipe about 18 inches (a little before the pipe curves back horizontal; mine isn't permanently installed so I like to be able to still reach it from the engine bay)

 

- Mine is reading pretty rock solid now (I actually had a fuel pressure regulator problem...not the sensor)

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P.S. Innovate says (in their video I believe) that the sensor shouldn't be 6" or 8" (can't remember which) from the turbo. I assume that means 6" or closer. Some haven't had issues though having it in the typical "Cobb" bung location near the turbo.
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Did you buy the lc-1 brand new? Did you ever check to see what fuel the sensor is setup to be reading in the logworks software as we stated to do in your other thread about the lc-1? The sensor will not work if you don’t calibrate it…

 

Before you panic about not getting it to work properly and move the bung or buy a new sensor you need to spend some time doing a check down of things. Start by checking fuel type, then do a free air calibration, then, I believe its called a ‘heater calibration’ and if all those things don’t work, then you could possibly borrow legend’s old wideband sensor to check and see if it’s a bad sensor, if its not all of that. The wideband could be wired wrong since you’ve never been able to get it to work…

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i bought it brand new... from the link you gave me... yea... but imma take it into the shop that did it for me... and make sure they calibrate it correctly... either way if they move the bung down more its not gonna cost me extra because i had originally told them to put it down farther anyways because i was having fitment issues with the bung that came with my DP... but instead they just drilled the hole bigger and put it where i told them not to.... we will see this saturday... im gonna try and see if my friend will let me borrow his USB converter thing...
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It would only take you probably 30 minutes to check the fuel type and calibrate the sensor properly on your own. You can get a db-9 to usb converter at bestbuy, you will need it anyways to be able to log the wideband to your laptop since you don't have a db-9 port...
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^ yea but I figure if my friend doesn't use his converter I can just take his... I've been super busy lately... I've been in and out of the hospital since sunday... or I would have already done this.... what I'm hoping is this doesn't damage my sensor because I still do have to drive to work.... I wake up everymorning at 5... drive an hour and 15 minutes to work... get off at 3... drive an hour and 15 bak and go straight to the hospital... then I stay at the hospital till around 11 or midnight... and go home then repeat.... I'm not tryin to sound like I'm too lazy to test it myself... or I just like asking questions... I just wanted to know if anyone else experienced this and what they did to solve it... that's all... I know its a toss up... some people have issues and some don't... but just wasn't sure if these were the same isssues... because the unlucky people that have problems have problems with inconsistant readings... not stop working all together... like I said I ran the error code... which the lc-1 flashes the red LED a certain number of times and repeats for the error code... I looked it up on the manual and it said 1. Sensor overheated, and the fix was to move the bung farther down... 2. Broken sensor... fix was to get a new one.... that's y the first thing I said was I was going to move it down, or get a new sensor... because of the error code and the manual....
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Oh and in no way am I trying to be rude or anything like that... you have actually been the biggest help to me on these forums and it is very appreciated.... I'm just trying to explain where I was coming from....
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Well searched and didn't find... or I'm still a noob and overlooked it.. so I took my car to get the innovate lc-1 WBo2 sensor put in... and they told me that the bung that came on the MR DP wasn't drilled big enough?? The threads matched up but they said the rest of the o2 will not fit inside?? I don't know y MR would do this.... make a bung which threads meet up but then not have a hole big enough to fit the sensor itself??? Anyone else have had issuew/problems with this?? Or if someone can link it if they know of one... thanks!

 

Yep I had that issue, and many more with the Megan Racing down pipe. I eventually got fed up with it, and swapped for an Invidia down. Haven't looked back since.

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well... it really wasnt that hard of a fix... they just drilled the hole to make bigger... but it turns out i should of just moved it down the pipe some... i havent had any other problems with the megan DP besides that though... maybe i should write them just so they are aware of this... its kinda silly they would make a bung for a WB02 but not make the bung big enough to fit one... :lol:
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well the shop that originally put my WB in doesnt have time till next week... so today im gonna go to best buy/micro center to get the db-9 to usb converter... ive still been in and out of hospital.. and takin care of my mom so still havent had time to get around to it.. i kno i kno... im slackin.. but my moms the first priority.. then my car :) but i figure i might as well go through and do ALL the calibrations myself so i kno its done correctly..... as for my tune, im thinkin about putting on my FMIC and CAI and flashing mickeyd's stage2 FMIC tune... then using my maf scaling because his tune is for the k&n intake... my turbo has been on back order for the past 2 months now so ive just been sittin with this crap tune, thinkin i would just wait for my turbo and then get tuned...... im very anxious to unmarry my AP so i can get some extra cash from it...
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So I tried to calibrate my wb today... and I think I bought the wrong db9 to usb converter... the guy at best buy gave me a usb to serial something but he said it would work... everything plugs in just fine but I think he gave me wrong one... when I plug it into my comp it reads something is plugged in but nothing happens... it says I have to install but it won't let me... ill go bak to best buy on friday and maybe exchange it... any suggestions? Are the converters just a one way type deal??
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Usually you have to install drivers in order for your computer to recognize those serial to usb converters. I bought one off amazon and it came with a little disk with the drivers. If yours didn't come with a disk search the makers website to see if you can find the drivers there.
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i think it did come with a little disc.. but my laptop isnt one of those that have the little cd thing that pops out... it works like the cd player in our cars... i dont wanna put that little disc in there and then have it get stuck.... :(

 

thanks for the advise... ill try goin to their site... if they even have one...

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its wierd... i looked around online and i think this is the one i got...

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a148/gan_ni_niah/CA-232-1MB.jpg

i will find out for sure and post a picture tomorrow... i dont know... the lc-1 is a female db9 but it doesnt have the 2 screw holes on the side... instead it has the 2 screws on the side like the picture shown.. should i have gotten this one??

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a148/gan_ni_niah/usb-serial-adapter-for-windows-vist.jpg

or are they the same thing?? not bein able to screw them together doesnt bother me really... but thats all they had at best buy i thinik... unless the guys just didnt kno what they were talkin about... ill find out for sure which one i got and try and take a pic of the screw things...

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