Oil weight for 131k miles LGT

The Ol' Legacy is hitting 132000 here soon, and the rocker cover gaskets are ready to be replaced. I'm going to put new oil in at the same time, I was told to get some thicker oil since it is an older engine.

 

I live in SoCal, and it gets up to 115F on a regular basis during the summer. I've also gotten into road rallying, so, I beat the car to hell during those. Should I go 10w-40 or 20w-50? I'm going to stay with synthetic, since that is what has been running in the car since I've gotten it.

my one mechanic told me the same thing so when i did my dad's 98 forester (150K+ miles) i used 10w40. but it took longer to warm up and the motor was noisier. i do live in the new england area so there might be a difference. i have since switched it back to 5w30 and its quieter and warms up quicker. i just also use regular and not synthetic, i don't know if that makes a difference.

I am using a high mileage synthetic blend in our older subi's and they seem pretty happy. Not much burn off and the motor is smoother than it was just using dino 5/30.

 

Valvoline Maxlife to be exact....13.99 at Walmart for a 5qt jug. It's think it's thicker than the 5/30 PP I am using on our newer subi's. You certainly could use 10/40 where you are at but I think the 5/30 will lub the motor better.

I would suggest sticking with the recommended oil weight and using a 'high mileage' formula. The HM oils have extra additives in them to work with a 'worn' motor and components, while the same weight will properly flow into all the tight spots necessary for proper oiling. I would be a little bit leary of going with a heavier weight oil with some of the components in late model engines. Just my $0.02.

As an update, I chose to go Rotella T 5w-40. A lot of suby owners around here are using it, and a few people that run subaru sand rails use it. On top of that, I'm prolly going to swap it in less than 30k miles anyway.

How does the Rotella feel in your engine so far?

Haven't put it in yet. I've been in the process of head gasket changing for the past two weeks. I'll have the engine out by tomorrow, then take it appart, get heads milled, put it back together, then I'll put the new oil in.

I'm about to give Rotella 5W40 a shot.

Update?

Update: Heads are coming off the engine finally, *should* have the car running by next weekend.

 

 

Head gasket problems suck...

Update: head gasket job is now 100% done. The rotella t 5-40 is in. everything is super smooth. Everything sounds great. I don't hear the cams ticking as much as they were using mobil 1 5-30.

i just switched to 5w-40 on my 05 and notice the engine runs smoother. im also running synthetic

I think our engines like the 40 weight.

I was told to not use Shell Rotella T, as it is formulated for diesel engines. Just an FYI. The source? I can't name him but let's just say he worked as a consultant for many oil companies, including Mobil and Shell.

Try Pennzoil Platinum 10w30. Shell is supposed to come out with an oil formula for turbo gas engines, but nothing out yet.

Because it is formulated for diesel engines does not mean it can't be used for gas engines, turbo or otherwise. I would like to know what is his basis for not recommending it other than just "its formulated for diesel engines".

Too many additives was his reason, and given the fact he's worked as a consultant and his bread and butter is this kind of stuff, I asked no further questions.

Gas and diesel oils differ in some aspects, different formulations, etc. it's a well-known fact especially in Europe where turbodiesels are popular.

If it was OK/the same, then I'd think Shell would not invest additional money in R&D to develop the gas version of their Rotella stuff.

The kind I got was for gas engines. No where on the bottle does it say diesel.

 

There was two types, diesel, and non diesel.

In my last subi (a Loyale) and my present 96 outback I use valvoline max life. I'll have to check about the grade but I'm pretty sure it's 5W30. In every oil change over the last 10 yrs in both cars I replace one quart of the oil with Lucas oil stabilizer. In the loyale my mechanic noticed the weeping was les than any other loyale he worked on. I was told "whatever your doing don't stop" after I told him about the mix. To this day I still use the mix of valvoline and lucas for a nice quite motor as subis go.

I run 20W50 which is recommended per the Owner's Manual for severe and high temperature operating conditions. That or 20W40 is also all my mechanic recommends after having done my head gaskets at 103k. I run Syntec Full Synthetic.

Try Pennzoil Platinum 10w30.

 

Thats what I use as well.

The kind I got was for gas engines. No where on the bottle does it say diesel.

The entire Shell Rotella T of oil is diesel formulated. Their gas engine oil is not out yet. As a confirmation, I went to the official site.

Their oil weights are:

10w30 - diesel formula

15w40 - diesel formula

5w40 - diesel and gas formula

If you're talking about the 5w40, then I am not sure about that one. Does anyone know when it came out on the market? If it's brand new then my information may be outdated although it's only a month old.

This is their approval list

 

 

Approvals and Recommendations

• API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF
  
• API SL, SJ, SH
  
• Cummins CES 20078, 20076, 20071
  
• Detroit Diesel 7SE 270
  
• Mack EO-N Premium Plus ’03, EO-N, EO-M Plus
  
• Volvo VDS 2
  

Lotsa diesels on that list. Like I said, I'm not saying I'm an expert, just relaying what I have been told by more than one trusty source. Their recommendation was that I personally wait until Shell puts out a gas-engine oil of weights such as 5w30 and 10w30.

Upon reviewing this topic

http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=120&page=1#Post120

might be more of a cat converter problem than engine problem. But I'd still be hesitant to use an oil formulated for a different kind of combustion engine.

It's designed API SL. Should be fine for a gasser.

Yeah, it is the 5w-40. On the bottle it says for use in diesel and gas engine. I'll get it analyzed in 3k miles.

Dyson or Blackstone? Please post results, I'd be very interested.

There have been some Rotella UOAs and all came back OK, yet I was still recommended I stick with other brands.