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2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal


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I got the p0011 code in the fall. I immediatly drove home, emptied my oil, ran some cheap synthetic for 50 miles then replaced that with eneos 5w30. The cel went away and all has been well *knocks on wood*

But really i need to check that banjo bolt asap. This michigan weather isnt very motivating though.

 

 

We want more background.

 

Did you buy it new ?

What oil and filters have been used?

Do you drive the car for long distances or just stop and go in town ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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i bought this car from the dealership i work at (suburban KIA) last january. It had 105k miles when i bought it and was bone stock. It had been serviced by our neighboring suburban chrysler jeep dodge ram dealership before I bought it.

When i went to do the first oil change i went to a local subaru performance shop (OAKOS) and asked their opinion on oil. I ended up choosing eneos 5w-30 and subaru blue oil filters. (when i first changed the oil i found the stealership goon had put a huge mopar filter on there which angered me)

I have been consistently doing 3k oil change intervals. I mainly just drive to work which is about 11 miles away with the ocassional spirited drive every week or two

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when i first changed the oil i found the stealership goon had put a huge mopar filter on there

 

Not to derail your question, but you don't happen to know what filter # it was do you? I'm always curious about alternative filters. It would be nice to find one that has the higher subaru bypass pressure (30+ psi?) but has more actual filter material in it/larger size.

BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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Not to derail your question, but you don't happen to know what filter # it was do you? I'm always curious about alternative filters. It would be nice to find one that has the higher subaru bypass pressure (30+ psi?) but has more actual filter material in it/larger size.

 

sorry, I have no clue what filter it was. I knew even less about cars at that time then i do now so when i saw it all i thought was "this is a subaru, not a chrysler/dodge! this cant be correct!" also i was already in a fuss about how tight the drain plug was on there so i didn't even think to check the filter number and do some research on it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK.. I am trying to locate and check my banjo filters and have gone through this thread and have found the following pictures showing the locations:

http://elementtuning.com/V8%20Install/Elemen13.jpg

One here where the upper arrow is pointing to the hole in the avcs supply line which is on the back passenger side of the engine near the turbo.

 

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab156/blk94civ/4ab1bb25.jpg

and one here where that was circled in post #678 under the intake on the front passenger side of the engine.

 

I am confused.. both these locations are passenger side and the OP states there is one on the drivers side. Is one of these pictures wrong? I have checked what I thought was the banjo bolt under the intake near the AVCS solenoid and there was nothing in it. Maybe this wasn't a banjo bolt... It had copper washers and looked like the pictures..

 

Does anybody have any good zoomed out pictures of the bolts locations? maybe with a little smaller circle lol.

 

Thanks

 

** Ok I think I have answered my own question. On the new models ('08 or '07+?) it looks as though they moved the passenger banjo filter to up top under the intake manifold. The one for the drivers side is on the front of the head behind the timing cover (for all '05-'09 i think?). This means that i should have no reason to check for the banjo filter under the turbo by the up-pipe on my '08? The bolts that I actually did check were the ones right at the AVCS solenoids. Apparently these house the filters on other Subaru models, but not on the LGTs? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

There should be separate threads for Banjo Filters for the 05-06 and 07-09 if what I found is correct...

Edited by Yeti 08
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I quote myself from http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5065102&postcount=4. This info applies to 05-06 only I believe...

 

passenger side:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65157&d=1237512742

 

driver side:

 

I finally got around to pulling both of the Banjo filter bolts. The turbo one was about 50% plugged. And the driver side ACVS unit was 25% plugged.

 

Pic. of turbo Banjo filter. Over 73k on my GT

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0812072233.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0812072235.jpg

I stated this earlier.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost....7&postcount=44

 

But change my mind. Do to my oil\filter change history. I put new filter bolts in to see if the clogging took place more in the first 30k Mobil1\Fram or the last 43k, using Amsoil oil\filer.

 

The driver side Banjo filter bolt is right behind the top cam pulley cover.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0813071900a.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0813071900.jpg

 

 

 

To remove this bolt. You have two options. 1) Pull everything of the front driver side of the motor to pull that cam pulley. So you can remove the rear cam belt cover. To have room the remove the banjo filter bolt.

 

2) This is what I came up with to service this bolt, without doing #1 above. Make sure the engine compartment is still warm. Plastic bends better when warm. Need to remove the AC bracket by the oil dipstick, unbolt the dipstick ( if you choose to remove the dipstick for more room. Put a oil drain pan to catch the oil that will leak out of the dipstick tube.) To make room for a cut tool ( I use a dermal with pen attachment & 1\8 in. milling bit.) To remove the tit off the head of the banjo bolt. Then using 17mm wrench to break it free. Unbolt the other end of the AVCS oil supply line. Now the fun begins. Once the filter bolt broken free. Than take a old 17mm box end wrench & grind it down to 3\16 thick & unscrew. Or try this http://www.sears.com/craftsman-7pc-h...blockType=G212 Use a pry bar to move back the rear cam belt cover. Remove filter bolt & line together. Clean up the head of the bolt. I ground it down between 1\8"- 3\16".

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0815071950.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0815072338.jpg

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif

This would be me:p:). 2 microns filtration, 15k OCI, Cobbs stage 1 93 tune, 16.2 psi. of max boost & 169k+miles on the original motor & turbo. Took the original ones out at 73k. Another 4k I will have 100k on this set of banjo filter bolts. Then I will inspect & if all is fine. I will leave them out. If I have crap in them. I but new ones in & change them out every 100k.

 

Mike

 

 

 

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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one washer goes between the head (block) and the oil line, the other between the oil line and the head of the bolt.

 

 

BLOCK:OIL LINE:BOLT HEAD

 

^^The colons abover are your washers, the bolt would be threading in from the right and going into the head/block to the left. Does that make sense?

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Yes thank you. I was really confused and when putting on the bolt and no idea where the second washer went. I made the mistake of turning on the car without the second washer and i got a lot of oil on the ground
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** Ok I think I have answered my own question. On the new models ('08 or '07+?) it looks as though they moved the passenger banjo filter to up top under the intake manifold. The one for the drivers side is on the front of the head behind the timing cover (for all '05-'09 i think?). This means that i should have no reason to check for the banjo filter under the turbo by the up-pipe on my '08? .

 

Yes this is confusing, the 08 has the passenger side filter under the intake plenum (must be removed to remove that filter). The driver side is in the same place as other years, behind driver side plastic cam gear cover. You need to remove the air pump to see it on the 08.

Some have on other years removed driver side bolt without taking timing belt apart. I'm not sure if things changed but I say no way to do it on my 08, even grinding the head off the bolt. The timing belt has to come off, cam gears.

FYI you can tell the bolts have a filter inside because the bolt head is slightly raised.

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Just loop thread thru the washer to put it on and to hold it in place. Then pull the thread out before torque it down.
**There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you?
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I want to replace the filters , what are the part numbers these bolts.

 

(A) Union screw with filter (with protrusion)

(B) Union screw without filter (without protrusion)

I found this 15194aa110, but also found 14445AA090

Also for the gasket I found two part number 803910050 and 80391204

Also 15194AA110 - Banjo Bolt for the turbo (Called a union screw by SOA)

803910050 – Washer for 15194AA110 (Called a gasket by SOA):

 

no sure which number are correct

 

thanks

Edited by Heticor
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I want to replace the filters , what are the part numbers these bolts.

 

(A) Union screw with filter (with protrusion)

(B) Union screw without filter (without protrusion)

I found this 15194aa110, but also found 14445AA090

Also for the gasket I found two part number 803910050 and 80391204

Also 15194AA110 - Banjo Bolt for the turbo (Called a union screw by SOA)

803910050 – Washer for 15194AA110 (Called a gasket by SOA):

 

no sure which number are correct

 

thanks

 

 

Just go to the dealership parts counter and ask them. Or PM "underdog" he can get you what you need too.

 

IMO do not put the filters in the banjo bolts.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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2009 OBXT, 69k, Just bought it a couple months ago.

 

Threw a P0011 code over the weekend. Limped it home, drained oil, did a heartland flush (with new oil filter), drained/threw away the filter then filled up synthetic and new filter. Unplugged battery overnight and code was gone. Drove it for a few days and no code.

 

Then last night, went in and cleaned the OCV on the driver side (it was fine) and removed the passenger side banjo. The EXTERIOR of the filter looked decent, but after removing you could see that the INTERIOR was gunked up.....over 60%. Ripped that B*tch out and car runs great. Turbo even sounds better.

 

Long story short, get rid of the screens, may look fine on the outside but in, not so much. FWIW, it's a circular screen, so there are 2 filters (essentially) that the oil has to pass through.

 

Next up, passenger banjo.

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I think you mean next up drivers side filter.

 

Either way your on the right track. Dirty oil is better than no oil.

 

Make sure you let us know how the drivers side looks.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have 152k miles on my car and still not replaced this filter. I attempted to replace this past weekend but due to limited time and dropping the 1/4 deep socket into engine cavities, I was unable to sucessfull change. I did get the socket out.

 

I hope to change this sometime in the future.

 

I don't think this is somethign that needs to be changed every 3000 miles.

I have 152k on mine. Oil change intervals approx 7000 miles.

Using synthetic.

 

Doesn't seem like a problem as long as your not hard on the engine.

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I have 152k miles on my car and still not replaced this filter. I attempted to replace this past weekend but due to limited time and dropping the 1/4 deep socket into engine cavities, I was unable to sucessfull change. I did get the socket out.

 

I hope to change this sometime in the future.

 

I don't think this is somethign that needs to be changed every 3000 miles.

I have 152k on mine. Oil change intervals approx 7000 miles.

Using synthetic.

 

Doesn't seem like a problem as long as your not hard on the engine.

 

 

It's better to run without them or get the infamous external filter and oil feed line. Worth the longevity. Even if you're not hard on your car it can still clog those pesky filters.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Howdy folks,

 

I read through a lot but not all of this thread. Is there a clear procedure/instructions for servicing the 07-09 passenger side banjo bolt? I don't anticipate replacing my turbo with anything much different from stock, but it does seem like pulling the filter would be a good idea. I'm definitely not up for the driver side (AVCS?) one, and it doesn't seem particularly important compared to the one into the turbo…

 

Thanks, Doug

 

2009 OBXT, 69k... Then last night, went in and cleaned the OCV on the driver side (it was fine) and removed the passenger side banjo. The EXTERIOR of the filter looked decent, but after removing you could see that the INTERIOR was gunked up.....over 60%. Ripped that B*tch out and car runs great. Turbo even sounds better.

 

Long story short, get rid of the screens, may look fine on the outside but in, not so much. FWIW, it's a circular screen, so there are 2 filters (essentially) that the oil has to pass through.

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  • 1 month later...
Howdy folks,

 

I read through a lot but not all of this thread. Is there a clear procedure/instructions for servicing the 07-09 passenger side banjo bolt? I don't anticipate replacing my turbo with anything much different from stock, but it does seem like pulling the filter would be a good idea. I'm definitely not up for the driver side (AVCS?) one, and it doesn't seem particularly important compared to the one into the turbo…

 

Thanks, Doug

 

I just removed the filter on my turbo feed banjo bolt this saturday (2007 legacy gt) Really all you have to do is remove the inlet to reach it. So disconnect bpv hoses, remove intercooler, remove that bracket of sesnors that are connected to the inlet and above the ps pump (you will have to unplug them and remove the hoses from most the sensors to be able to move it out of the way). remove the head breather hoses and the crossover tube they go to. Remove the passenger side pcv breather hose. Remove the breather system hose attached to the inlet. Remove the bpv hose from inlet and the pcv hose from the inlet (it may help to take it off the pcv sensor as well). Then disconnect the inlet and remove it, now you can reach the banjo bolt on top of the head easily. you will want new clamps to ease re installing the inlet. its really not that hard it just takes patience and perseverance as some of these hoses are hard to get a good hold on.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I appreciated the procedure, as I would never have even known where the banjo bolt was. I would add a few things from my first time at this rodeo for anyone else who has never attempted this. If you are able to do this in 30 minutes the first time you ever do this, then kudos to you, because it took me much longer. Although I was able to get the banjo bolt out with the turbo heat shield in place, it was absolutely necessary for me to remove it to put the banjo bolt back in. Additionally the crush washer between the engine block and oil supply line fell out immediately and down where it was inaccessible (aka the abyss). I had spare crush washers, but reinstalling the one between the oil supply line and engine block required some creativity as the first one that I tried to install also dropped down into the abyss. Also a bone to pick with the statement "don't over tighten". Would you care to quantify that? Apparently I guessed right, because I didn't snap the bolt and it hasn't shown any signs of leakage. Also, you can get by with a u-shaped 17 mm combination wrench if you don't have a 17 mm stubby. I tried using the s-shaped 17 mm combination wrench but it definitely won't work. By appearances, it looks as though a 17 mm wrench with an offset might also work or one with a deep box end, as long as you can clear the exhaust flange and the hose that is almost entirely in the way.
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I have 152k miles on my car and still not replaced this filter. I attempted to replace this past weekend but due to limited time and dropping the 1/4 deep socket into engine cavities, I was unable to sucessfull change. I did get the socket out.

 

I hope to change this sometime in the future.

 

I don't think this is somethign that needs to be changed every 3000 miles.

I have 152k on mine. Oil change intervals approx 7000 miles.

Using synthetic.

 

Doesn't seem like a problem as long as your not hard on the engine.

 

 

No, you don't have to maintain your inspection every oil change but, I would want to inspect the filter in the turbo side, because of curiosity. Just to see how clean or dirty the filter screen is. A ritual most of us have to undergo...:)

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I pulled both of mine out at 155K and they both were clear and clean. Replaced DS with a new one and left the PS out since I'm now using the IP&T inline oil filter
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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  • 3 weeks later...

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