Jaxx Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 so i work for a ski resort and the drive to the mountain is 16 miles (2300-6100 ft) 400+ turn 2 lane road i turned my rotors and flushed the fluid in October before ski season i have been having trouble again i took them off sunday they warped at the hat between 4-5MM they are so warped that: the rotor is grinding against the caliper bracket its visible to the naked eye when spinning the rotor in the caliper this is on stock pads i have a set of xp8 but are so loud the GF made me take them out any other ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dark_rex Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 get some better rotors. the DBA streets, or 4000's will have much better thermal properties from the superior vein design, and larger mass. dR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 find a lower gear Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 so i work for a ski resort and the drive to the mountain is 16 miles (2300-6100 ft) 400+ turn 2 lane road i turned my rotors and flushed the fluid in October before ski season i have been having trouble again i took them off sunday they warped at the hat between 4-5MM they are so warped that: the rotor is grinding against the caliper bracket its visible to the naked eye when spinning the rotor in the caliper this is on stock pads i have a set of xp8 but are so loud the GF made me take them out any other ideas Get a spine. I'll rent you mine (my wife gave me permission to). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhsa Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 dunno if this is it, but it could be the stock pads depositing chunks onto the rotors which caused them to warp. do a search and you can find more info on that. i think its foolish to run stock pads on our cars. they have a nasty problem of chunking at speed. if you run nice aftermarket street pads (like hawk hps), change out the rotor for dba (if you want to spend the money) or stock (if you can get them under warranty), you should have absolutely no complaints. i run hawk hps all around and i don't worry about deposits any more. at least for now if you're still under warranty, go back and get them to replace all brake items under it. so i work for a ski resort and the drive to the mountain is 16 miles (2300-6100 ft) 400+ turn 2 lane road i turned my rotors and flushed the fluid in October before ski season i have been having trouble again i took them off sunday they warped at the hat between 4-5MM they are so warped that: the rotor is grinding against the caliper bracket its visible to the naked eye when spinning the rotor in the caliper this is on stock pads i have a set of xp8 but are so loud the GF made me take them out any other ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 well i won't be using the OE pad set any more .. the rough/high spot ate 1/4" worth of pad in 6 miles yesterday had to use e- brake for the last 2 miles .. yes i know this is dumb ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 The stock rotors are quite warp-resistant let me assure you. I'm sure the crappy stock pads and perhaps riding the brakes in the mountain roads caused this to happen. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 not riding the brakes .. it the 45-50mph over that warped them the last 2 miles in either direction are relatively flat so cool down should have been fine xp8s are going back on will better fluid help warp resistance or just decrease fade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 not riding the brakes .. it the 45-50mph over that warped them the last 2 miles in either direction are relatively flat so cool down should have been fine xp8s are going back on will better fluid help warp resistance or just decrease fade? decrease fade -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMsuby Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 any other ideas If you are that hard on the brakes then don't bother turning them. Every time they warp get a new set. Taking metal off your rotors will just cause them to warp more which can cause them to crack and suddenly fail. I don't think there really is any good economical solution to your problem except to provide better cooling to the brakes with duct work or to drive slower and lighten the vehicle a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turninconcepts Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 If you are that hard on the brakes then don't bother turning them. Every time they warp get a new set. Taking metal off your rotors will just cause them to warp more which can cause them to crack and suddenly fail. I don't think there really is any good economical solution to your problem except to provide better cooling to the brakes with duct work or to drive slower and lighten the vehicle a bit. +1 You were out driving the stock pads. Good call on going to a better compound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted April 16, 2007 Author Share Posted April 16, 2007 If you are that hard on the brakes then don't bother turning them. Every time they warp get a new set. Taking metal off your rotors will just cause them to warp more which can cause them to crack and suddenly fail. I don't think there really is any good economical solution to your problem except to provide better cooling to the brakes with duct work or to drive slower and lighten the vehicle a bit. that makes allot of sense thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMsuby Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 I forgot to consider whether you are lubing the lug nuts and using a torque wrench to tighten. A loose or missing lug nut can also cause problems on top of a rotor that is too thin. Also, make sure to clean the wheels and rotors as well since a nice clean and flat surface makes a big difference. I like to spray a coat of paint on the back of the wheels after I finish cleaning them up. I'm sure yours probaby looks nasty from all that snow and salt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 on proper, even torque. tighter != better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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