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idle issue still unresolved!!


c-lo

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:iam: :iam: :iam: From what I've just been told from my service rep, my car (which idles at 700rpm) is functioning normal. States that when the car is warm it'll run anywhere from 650-700RPM.

 

So I says to him: "so why does my car shutter when it idles? I can sit in my car and feel the car shutter! I can stand outside my car when it's idleing and put my hand on the car and feel it shutter!!"

 

He had no response. :iam: :iam: :iam:

 

I'm Fuc#$%^ pissed

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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A boxer engine has a "rough" idle.

 

I thought I read somewhere this layout was supposed to be smoother than a traditional in-line 4-cylinder? It is much smoother than my 2.2 liter Toyota with balance shaft...it shakes like a $20 whore needing a "fix". I am really happy the the idle quality on both of our 2.5's, NA and turbo. Now I have read that the sound of the boxer is different...it has been called both "agricultural" and "sewing machine-like" by the auto rags.

It is still ugly.
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I thought I read somewhere this layout was supposed to be smoother than a traditional in-line 4-cylinder? It is much smoother than my 2.2 liter Toyota with balance shaft...it shakes like a $20 whore needing a "fix". I am really happy the the idle quality on both of our 2.5's, NA and turbo. Now I have read that the sound of the boxer is different...it has been called both "agricultural" and "sewing machine-like" by the auto rags.

 

It is, just that badly idling produces unfamiliar vibrations. Not that this isn't "normal".. I don't know about "acceptable". If you datalog that car, at idle it's running everything in closed loop, and the timing/etc are jumping all over the place.. As usual, ECU issue.

 

Let me reiterate for like the 34235 time, a group of engineers between denso and subaru need to be fired.

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I think perhaps rather than the engine being smoother,you may have heard that the engine is lower thus helping the center of gravity.

 

It used to be that a rough idle was due to low vacuum,high compresion, aggressive cam, v8 engines.

 

It used to actually be cool. As mentioned above it is a boxer. I would like to get 200 posts. Thank you

This is not my beautiful car.

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Can't remember who said it, but I remember seeing someone post here that another cause of our less-than-perfectly-smooth idle is that we've got an unequal length header. (I assumed they were talking about the exhaust header?) The subsequent suggestion was that an aftermarket equal-length header would smooth things out. This is my first Subaru, and I felt the idle to be a little disconcerting at first, but I've since been convinced that yes, it is NORMAL.

Seek first to understand, then to be understood.

 

In other words: SEARCH before you post!

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A boxer engine has a "rough" idle. It's not the engine running rough, it's the compaction of harmonics that build up into a vibration that is very noticeable. Even Porsche's do it. It's normal. Stop crying.

 

That's a dick thing to say. :icon_mad: I stood there with Carlo while two qualified techs at another dealer listened to his car and agreed something was amiss. He's had recurring misfires, tracked down to a 'loose wire' on the coilpack. :rolleyes:

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That's a dick thing to say. :icon_mad: I stood there with Carlo while two qualified techs at another dealer listened to his car and agreed something was amiss. He's had recurring misfires, tracked down to a 'loose wire' on the coilpack. :rolleyes:

 

beat me to it. guess I should've brought that up to begin with. otherwise, the car runs fine. No more "misfire codes from a loose wire:rolleyes: " so I guess they truly fixed something. HOWEVER, this rough idle was an issue a month ago when the car went in .

 

I understand waht you are saying mweiner, but once this idle issue was pointed out to me by the 2 techs, I realized that this is something a little more involved.

 

car is going to another shop. Fu@# those guys.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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My apologies then, too, for jumping to conclusions. But yeah, you neglected to mention wire misfire thing originally which might have helped us keep from embarrassing ourselves. Good luck with the next shop!

Seek first to understand, then to be understood.

 

In other words: SEARCH before you post!

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^ honestly, I don't even think the misfire (#4) had anything to do with it. if it did than the "master tech" who worked on my car aint' no master tech since he didn't finish the job.

 

I'm starting to wonder if I even got my oil changed yesterday. Whole point of me going in was to fix the idle. Oil change was secondary. Oh well.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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When I had my second fuel injector go bad, my car was idling really rough, when I took it in. They didn't see anything out of the norm (they hook it up to diagnostic equipment and took it for a spin) a week later my check engine light came on for cylinder misfire. Turns out the injector did go bad :) again ... they two that went bad failed internally. My car has been good now for over 10k miles.
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When I had my second fuel injector go bad, my car was idling really rough, when I took it in. They didn't see anything out of the norm (they hook it up to diagnostic equipment and took it for a spin) a week later my check engine light came on for cylinder misfire. Turns out the injector did go bad :) again ... they two that went bad failed internally. My car has been good now for over 10k miles.

 

 

That was the next step.

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rao, happens on and off. doesn't matter

 

legacy05, my fourth was bad and replaced. the check engine light still came on and FINALLY they after bringing it back the 4th or 5th time they found a loose connector wire. Yet I still have this noticable rough idle that even the techs from this other dealership noticed.

 

My next step is to take it to a dealership close to my house. hopefully that'll be the end of it.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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wrong forum n00b!!!!

 

holds fist up at screen, rotates hand and sticks middle finger up at the screen:icon_bigg

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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Does it happen at cold start?

 

It certainly sounds like an injector problem.

 

no, happens even when the car is warm. the day I took it over to the other dealership to have the tech look at it, I had driven it for nearly 1/2 hour.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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Unfortunately, they won't replace the bad injector until it really does go bad and trips the check engine line. Thats why the second time, when I went to have it checked everything on the diagnostics check out "ok" until a week later when it tripped my check engine light :) Can you describe the idle? For me, even after driving 1+ hours, I would be at a stop light and my car would idle really rought to the point that it was shaking the car at times.
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I was asking if it eoes it when it is COLD because untill it warms up it will have a much higher duty cycle at idle then when it is warmed and that can mask an injector problem - to a point.

 

I'll check to see if there is a difference tomorrow morning.

 

Legacy05, Mine never idled that bad, but I know someone who had that same problem. This is not a "rough" idle where the car shakes constantly. It's hard to describe, but if you watch the needle on the rpm gauge you can see it drop as the car shutters. As soon as it drops, it idles back up to it's "normal" range. It's like its idleing between 650 rpm when it shutters and back up to 700rpm when it's normal. I know that's not a good description, it's hard to describe, easy to see when you sit in the car or put your hand on the car while it idles.

 

appreciate everyones input.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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