Pantheist Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 Well I was driving down a small (but paved) road that turned into a dirt road, then into more of a path. The path got worse and worse, but I kept going down it because it was dark and I didn't want to have to go in reverse for a few miles down a somewhat treacherous road and here in NH it's pretty common for these types of roads to just open back up onto main roads. Unfortunately, that's not what happened. The road turned into something more closely resembling a dry river bed and the car started bottoming out, so in the end I was forced to reverse out anyway. While I was reversing I bottomed out pretty badly a few times, after one of which the exhaust got significantly louder. I assumed I punched a hole in my muffler. I got out alright though, checked for leaking fluids (there weren't any) and the car continued to drive fine, albeit loudly. The next day, after driving about an hour and a half the check engine light came on. I brought it to autozone and they told me it was one of 4 things, but the most likely given the circumstances was a hot O2 sensor problem. I got under the car to check for any loose wires, and didn't notice any. Weirdly enough though, I also didn't notice any holes in the exhaust- lots of dents, but no holes. Not sure if that could be related, but I figured I'd mention it just in case. Is there any way I can troubleshoot the O2 sensor? Does it make sense for it to be broken like that or is it just loose or is the problem likely elsewhere? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 25, 2013 Moderators Share Posted September 25, 2013 Post up the codes that were pulled at Autozone, should provide more info (they should be a "P" with 4 numbers, i.e P0148) "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 post up the codes that were pulled at autozone, should provide more info (they should be a "p" with 4 numbers, i.e p0148) p2096 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 25, 2013 Moderators Share Posted September 25, 2013 loud exhaust combined with that code could point to cat converter damage. I'm honestly not sure though. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 loud exhaust combined with that code could point to cat converter damage. I'm honestly not sure though. Hope that's not it :\ Think it could be that I just missed a hole somewhere in the exhaust? If extra air was getting in it'd throw that sensor off, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12sechatch Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 air getting in or out would mess with the sensor, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 even if it doesn't have a hole, you could have bashed it hard enough to separate it at the turbo, dp/cb, or mid/axleback joints which would make the noise. check the wires going to the O2. you may have also damaged the cat by bashing its housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 Will do. Also, is this likely to be something that can cause damage to the car if I keep driving it before I fix it, or is it just an emissions problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 Well the wiring to both o2 sensors looks fine, and I tapped the cat and didn't hear any ratteling... maybe I didn't hit it hard enough but I didn't want to risk making the situation worse. It looks more scraped than dented Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 25, 2013 Moderators Share Posted September 25, 2013 It's also not likely to cause the car to run poorly, AFAIK. Did you clear the code? If not, clear it and see if it comes back. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 It's also not likely to cause the car to run poorly, AFAIK. Did you clear the code? If not, clear it and see if it comes back. Sorry it took me so long to get back-I cleared it then drove it about 30 miles today, and it's still off. The loud exhaust noise is definitely coming from somewhere around the engine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 I'm also going to need to replace my front sway bar brackets if anyone has any advice on what I should get. edit: end links, not brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 and the check engine light is back on :\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 you might start at the turbo and loosen each set of bolts and re-torque. A visual will not always tell where the damage is. Other option is to get it on a hoist and check every connection with motor on. You should be able to narrow the "loud" spot quickly. The o2sensor could have gotten damaged and need replacing. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 you might start at the turbo and loosen each set of bolts and re-torque. A visual will not always tell where the damage is. Other option is to get it on a hoist and check every connection with motor on. You should be able to narrow the "loud" spot quickly. The o2sensor could have gotten damaged and need replacing. Thank you While it was lifted with the engine running I could feel the hot exhaust coming out of the connection between the downpipe and the midpipe. Looks like I need a new gasket- do I have to take the whole thing apart to get it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pantheist Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Patched the leak awhile back and cleared the code then it came back after a few minutes. Today I finally got around to putting on an AFR sensor a mechanic told me it looked like I needed. Unfortunately, I didn't notice right away, but the connector on the one I got was wrong (even though it was right in the picture :\). Being the impatient person that I am, I cut off the connector from my old sensor, stripped the ends of the wires, did the same with the new sensor, then spliced them together. Tried clearing the code again, but now the light comes back on immediately rather than after a few minutes. Does this mean that either it's not plugged in correctly/I didn't get a good connection when I spliced the wires, or am I back at square one? edit: figured it out. I'm an idiot, works great now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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