Went to dealer for P0171, also says my turbo done for ?!!!

A few days ago I had the 'system too lean P0171' pop up. I thought maybe it was one of the vac hoses has popped off like the famous 'T' under the intercooler, but all was fine when I checked. The car didn't show any symptoms, still idled fine and boost was still there. I also had my MAF cleaned like a month ago.

I cleared the code and it didn't come back until two days later. I figured it was probably a dirty injector, but I took it in the dealer to verify before I started buying parts. After an hour and half they told me that I have a leak at the turbo and intercooler connection (I used high temp rtv sealent with a AVO tmic) and recomend to replace my MAF sensor (does this really go bad ???)

Here's the scary part that has me more concerned then the leak, my turbo. They said they they can hear the bearing going bad (I can't describe the noise when they showed me, but for a 1/2 second it sounds like a very muffled screech sound around the turbo area. Very hard to hear with other sounds going on). On the road it sounds fine, there's no high whistles going on and boost is very smooth through the rpms. Maybe it's on its last legs ? I can report that the past week or so, for a handful of times when I start the car, I hear squealing, but I always pick it u on my left ear. I always thought it was one of my belts ? maybe its the turbo ?

It would be $1500 to install a new vf40 (1 year/ 12k warranty) or $400 to install my own turbo, no warranty (I would go with BNR)

I don't feel beaten or down, the car has 110k on it, I knew turbos go out around now. I just want to make sure, I don't want to replace it if I don't have too. On a budget and only car.

What are your thoughts ? You think I should drive the car and stay out of boost ?

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1322503259.jpg

I think at that mileage, and if you can afford it, swap in a BNR turbo now.

Think about down the road if you have a catastrophic failure and get left stranded, or with more damage to the engine.

It might be time to get some 'insurance' for the next few years with a new turbo now.

I think I had that code and P0011 and P0021 a short time later. The turbo was on it's way out. Mine began to whine shortly after the 11 & 21 codes. When the whine became a whistle I stopped driving the car and put a VF52 on it.

You have a little time. But if the whine becomes a whistle stop driving the car.

Thanks for the quick replys. I'm already looking at turbo options. I want to go with BNR since he's pretty good according to the forum, I do see one BNR 18g on sale for $750 in the marketplace, but doesnt that require injectors, a bigger pump, and a tune ? I don't even know if that's a good price or not. I don't mind extra power, but I don't want spend all that if I don't need too. I'm not going with vf40, it's obsolete and the vf52 the successor for it anyhow. What about a 16g ?

I dunno, just spilling my thoughts right now.

I went with the vf52, did the install myself and my Tuner met me at the dyno he uses and for $300 I had a great tune and 280whp.

I do believe you need to upgrade injectors and fuel pump with the 16g, 18g, and 20g.

I suppose you could be fine with stock like I did with a 16g. But it requires the oil line kit too.

I have the banjo filter removed and use stock oil lines.

I also have a Invidia catless up/dp and IPR tmic. Everything else is stock. I have Cobb AP V2 too.

I'm in pretty much the same spot, stock turbo working fine, but plenty of play in the shaft... Here's what I settled on:

BNR EVO III 16g Hybrid

AVO TMIC

Grimmspeed EBCS

Deatschwerks 850cc Sidefeeds

Walbro 255

Infamous oil line kit

Infamous tune

All for about $2100 with plenty of injector for an e85 tune next spring - you'll want an uppipe and downpipe too if you haven't done that already... Good luck

I guess that depends on whether you want to "tune" for it. I may be mistaken, but I thought you need a tune to properly run a 16g with stock setup. If you don't mind, then using a 16g would be a good choice, might as well replace the up/down pipes while you are at it. If not, you should probably stick with stock, but a vf48 instead of the 40.

Oh, I forgot to mention. I'm pretty beefed up at stage 2 already. up/ dp, 3 port, tune, tmic, catback. lol

Could I get a 18 or 16g and run it with low boost until Im ready for injectors and pump ?

LOL @ incompetent diagnosis.

You had a vacuum leak, so the A/F learning compensated, that's why it's at 25% The MAF sensor is NOT bad.

ECU reset should have been performed after fixing the vacuum leak, and then check the A/F learning values several drive cycles later. If you want, clean the MAF sensor as well.

You can probably tune the 18g for around 290-300whp on stock injectors. A buddy of mine was right around 300 on a VF52 on stock injectors running about 95% capacity. The car will run out of fueling toward the top end at higher boost levels, but 15ish should be fine.

I was in the same situation when I went with the 18g. I was going to run on stock injectors for a while and then drop them in when I could do something to beef up the transmission. A new fuel pump will run about $75 and require a little modification to the housing. So I would recommend it (as it was recommended to me by my tuner) as a little precaution even running stock injectors.

I went with the vf52, did the install myself and my Tuner met me at the dyno he uses and for $300 I had a great tune and 280whp.

 

I do believe you need to upgrade injectors and fuel pump with the 16g, 18g, and 20g.

 

I suppose you could be fine with stock like I did with a 16g. But it requires the oil line kit too.

 

I have the banjo filter removed and use stock oil lines.

 

I also have a Invidia catless up/dp and IPR tmic. Everything else is stock. I have Cobb AP V2 too.

Every time I see you post up Max, I think more and more this (VF52) is the way to go when it's time for me to do a swap.

But I only have 60K miles on my wagon so I have a year or so before I even think about a swap. :knocks on wood:

Thanks I'm really happy with how easy it was to buy, install, for my Tuner to tune and how great the car drives. It's very smooth, responsive and linear.

I was thinking about selling the car during the early summer, I'm glad I didn't. I can't tell you how much pleasure I get out of driving a 280whp wagon.

Sure I spent about 3000 on it over the summer...but this thing is so much fun.

Thanks for the quick replys. I'm already looking at turbo options. I want to go with BNR since he's pretty good according to the forum, I do see one BNR 18g on sale for $750 in the marketplace, but doesnt that require injectors, a bigger pump, and a tune ? I don't even know if that's a good price or not. I don't mind extra power, but I don't want spend all that if I don't need too. I'm not going with vf40, it's obsolete and the vf52 the successor for it anyhow. What about a 16g ?

 

I dunno, just spilling my thoughts right now.

I just had my VF40 come apart and went with the BNR 18G. I havent got the car back yet but from talking to Bryan@BNR, you can run factory inj. and fuel pump and it will still drive fine without a tune as long as you stay out of boost. When I get my car back I fully intend to get a tune but it may have to wait a week or so. $750 is a little steep considering BNR sells them for $775 with a core refund of $200 when he gets your factory unit back. Good luck!

The core charge is added onto the cost of the turbo, and they don't include shipping which runs about $35. It worked out to $810 after shipping and the core refund from bnr. I'm not just defending my price (which is obo for a unit with 500 miles and 9 months left on the warranty) but it has come up a few times already in the sale thread and PMs, so I thought I'd address it. Lol.

But like he said, and I have as well, you can run a turbo upgrade without injectors, you just won't get the moat out of it. And if you're going to be driving it untuned, disconnect the vacuum line that runs from the wastegate back toward the boost control solenoid and plug the open connections. This will keep you from building more boost than is safe for the engine. Don't drive that way for too long if you can avoid it, but it should keep your engine safe

...The core charge is added onto the cost of the turbo...

Youre exactly right, my bad. I retract my previous statement.

After an hour and half they told me that I have a leak at the turbo and intercooler connection (I used high temp rtv sealent with a AVO tmic)

Get one of those Mr Gaskets from your FLAPS for between AVO TMIC and turbo connection. They are reusable and seal pretty darn good. Just trim out the inner rubber ring to the correct size, and install.

...obo for a unit with 500 miles and 9 months left on the warranty)

I have a hard time imagining that BnR warranties second hand turbos. I can't be the only one who is curious.

I'm still interested in your BNR turbo Joeblow. Just waiting on what Bryan will say for a warranty transfer.

Verdict?

EDIT: I am not suggesting the turbo is worth or not worth the price, merely wanting to know if BnR will transfer warranty.

Just reading up on BNR turbo's. He says not to run 5w-30 and don't use Mobil one ?! Really ? ( I run M1 no problem)

Also which oil line would you guys go with :

http://store.forcedperformance.net/PROD/FPMLSSSTI.html

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-995/IP%26T-Filtered-Turbo-Oil/Detail

The easy replacement filter in the IP&T kit looks pretty useful, but it is more than twice the cost of the FP. That's money I could use on a tune.

LOL @ incompetent diagnosis.

 

You had a vacuum leak, so the A/F learning compensated, that's why it's at 25% The MAF sensor is NOT bad.

 

ECU reset should have been performed after fixing the vacuum leak, and then check the A/F learning values several drive cycles later. If you want, clean the MAF sensor as well.

THANK YOU for pointing that out ... I read it and was like wtf ... Of course the MAF is reading incorrectly ... Vacuum leak d'oh. LOL again.

P0171 just showed up for me recently. Car seems to be fine. It first showed up on the road driving at highway seeds on cruise control. Went away for a tank of fuel then came back. Went away when parked overnight then now has been on a for a good while now.

I checked hoses a few times. Nothing too crazy but I looked around and didn't see anything noticeable. Really bothers me, but not sure what to do next. Really do not want to take it to a dealer but might have to

Are there 'hidden' hoses I should check? Anything else simpleish to check?

P0171 just showed up for me recently. Car seems to be fine. It first showed up on the road driving at highway seeds on cruise control. Went away for a tank of fuel then came back. Went away when parked overnight then now has been on a for a good while now.

 

I checked hoses a few times. Nothing too crazy but I looked around and didn't see anything noticeable. Really bothers me, but not sure what to do next. Really do not want to take it to a dealer but might have to

 

Are there 'hidden' hoses I should check? Anything else simpleish to check?

Do you know about the ones between the tmic and the intake manifold ?

Don't take it to the stealership, unless your under warrenty.

Do you know about the ones between the tmic and the intake manifold ?

 

Don't take it to the stealership, unless your under warrenty.

Is that the blue T people talk about. I can barely see it if I take my engine cover off and move the hose at the bottom of the intercooler. All the hoses look like they are attached. It is very tight and hard to see.