Whats your wideband solution?

What do you use for capturing wideband O2 sensor data? It looks like most people use the Innovate Motorsports products.

I'm just going to move the stock O2 sensor to the DP. It will be good enough, tested and verified as comparable on RomRaider to a standalone WBO2. (flame suit on)

I use PLX (at the advice of Jarrad from PDX) he said the innovative stuff (while cheap) is, well, cheap. The one for ST.

 

He said they went through a bunch at the shop til they called it quits and went PLX.

I got the LC-1 kit from ImportImage at a great price.

 

http://importimageonline.com/imageprint/innovate-lc-1-complete-wideband-kit/product_info.php/products_id/2488

lc-1, the stock narrowband is only good to about 12:1 then it just reads incorrect, maybe moving it to the downpipe solves the issue.

The stock front o2 is not a narrowband, it is in fact a wideband as well. I run a Zeitronix setup.

^^ How sure are you of that?

 

 

 

LM-1 in the downpipe

^^ How sure are you of that?...

 

where do you get this information from?

The stock front o2 is not a narrowband, it is in fact a wideband as well. I run a Zeitronix setup.

 

Yes, it is a wideband. You can find the technical specs on romraider.

 

It doesn't matter though because you can't get the ecu to read below 11.03 even if you move it to after the downpipe. It might be fine for E85 or meth though.

 

In the current position, it will read incorrectly due to the high pressure.

Here's the specification for the Denso planar wideband.

 

http://i15.tinypic.com/4d45u7c.gif

 

And here is the Denso paper.

 

http://www.denso.co.jp/DTR/vol7_no1/dissertation5-i.pdf

This is how the front O2 sensor (in the stock position )reads in comparison to a LC-1. As you can see, the data is skewed due to the high pressure. root on romraider has a twinscroll so his front O2 sensor is post turbo and he said it reads accurately post turbo. However, it only reads down to what the ecu will allow it to read.

 

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r69/mickeyd2005/frontO2vsWBO2.jpg

^^ How sure are you of that?

 

 

 

LM-1 in the downpipe

100% Did Mickeyd posts up you guys enough proof?

Not nearly

 

I use a Zeitronix on the Legacy and a PLX Devices on the BMW. I have also used the Innovate. They are all basically the same.

PLX M-300USB, made especially to work with ST. Located in the Cobb DP's provided WB bung.

 

http://www.pltek.net/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=40&products_id=419&osCsid=9f8be38674be5c0316a4c16684d66a9a

MickeyD, do you have the Excel spreadsheet that the WB-vs-stock graph came from? If so, can you post it?

 

Thanks!

MickeyD, do you have the Excel spreadsheet that the WB-vs-stock graph came from? If so, can you post it?

 

Thanks!

 

It's just a scatter plot with a linear interpolation. There's no reason to save the spreadsheet, but I have the csv somewhere. Anyone with a WBO2 can create the same spreadsheet.

 

BTW, the 16 bit cars have a different front O2 sensor. The PDF that Jon [in CT] provided shows the current vs lambda chart for the older sensor. It drops off much earlier.

^^ How sure are you of that?

:lol: at the topic

 

 

 

 

the answer to the OP...Street Tuner

I use PLX (at the advice of Jarrad from PDX) he said the innovative stuff (while cheap) is, well, cheap. The one for ST.

 

He said they went through a bunch at the shop til they called it quits and went PLX.

 

I agree on the cheap and cheaply built statements. I have an innovate LC-1 and it worked correctly(spot on to requested AFR) until I started tuning for boost targets above 15psi of boost and then it just went crazy. It may be the bung location in my Autospeed DP too, I don't know. It reads fine at low to medium throttle, but once you go WOT and boost goes above 15psi; it just drops like a rock down to like 9.28ish:1 :confused:and my richest target AFR is 10.8:1 at the moment. It has even shown AFRs of 13+:1 and leaner at WOT in full boost. Free air re-calibration does nothing to correct it either.

 

I took the heatwrap off the top of my DP and I'm going to try installing a copper heat shield/sink and a anti-fouler spacer today, but I'm still not real optomistic about getting good readings from it. I can pinpoint the day and minute it went bad. On one log run it read perfectly and the next run a few minutes later it was throwing out random numbers between 0 and 20.33 and it's been flakey ever since.

 

The LC-1 may be cheap, but if you have to buy a new sensor every month or un-install/de-wire it and send it back every other month, then the low price is pretty much a wash in the end. I don't have any experience with other brands, but I'm not impressed with my LC-1 so far:mad:.

I know a lot of people use it, and I m sure they work fine for many.

 

I have just read so much negative feedback form them.

Mine worked perfect for a while. At least long enough to get A/F trims down to =/-1% and get my AEM intake dialed in to where my target and reatime AFR's were virtually identical across the table until I upped the boost beyond 15psi. I think it might be positioning or heat issue since it's still accurate in closed loop. I'm working on it today.

The Innovate is perfect for the person who likes a lot of voodoo, lots of wiring that doesn't make any sense and annoying rituals

The Innovate is perfect for the person who likes a lot of voodoo, lots of wiring that doesn't make any sense and annoying rituals

 

But it sure is cheap!

About 2K miles on my Innovate. Still seems to work fine. It reads 10.8:1 steady at WOT. In closed loop it tracks with the front O2 sensor.

About 2K miles on my Innovate. Still seems to work fine. It reads 10.8:1 steady at WOT. In closed loop it tracks with the front O2 sensor.

 

I'm not saying there is anything wrong, but my PLX NEVER reads "steady" AFRs. Whether it is at idle OR WOT the AFR is always, always, moving one way or the other to a larger or smaller degree.

 

And I'm not saying there is anything wrong with your tune, but 10.8?? Under any conditions??

Well, after cleaning the sensor, attempting to put a heatshield on, recalibrating it and sticking a doll with some needles; my LC-1 might be reading closer to correct for the moment:lol:.