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True on the oil line BUT it is capable of much more power with a few add ons and proper tuning. Mine got 237/275 HP/torque on stock injectors and fuel pump. Expect to get significantly more with new ones and new intake.

 

That HP number is pretty low. I suspect I'm somewhere around 230/230ish with just a stage 2 setup. If I'm recalling some other numbers from the past correctly, I'm expecting closer to 300/300 with my 16g setup (full supporting mods w/ ELH headers). Never been much of a numbers guy though, who knows when I'll ever put the car on a dyno.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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If you've added a DP and modified your tune to up your performance then you're at Stage 2. When you change-out/upgrade your turbo, IC, fuel delivery and injection, and further modify your tune for more performance, then you're at Stage 3.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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That's what I thought. So 230/270 is OK. Just FYI SBT here is my equipment list:

BNR 16G turbo

Perrin intake

Invidia Catless Up pipe

CNT Catted Down pipe

IP&T -4 High flow oil supply line and return,

10 micron inline oil filter with filters removed from banjo bolts.

All new hoses

Locally tuned

 

Awaiting installation:

DW 850cc injectors

DW 65C Fuel pump

Upgraded TMIC

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That's what I thought. So 230/270 is OK. Just FYI SBT here is my equipment list:

BNR 16G turbo

Perrin intake

Invidia Catless Up pipe

CNT Catted Down pipe

IP&T -4 High flow oil supply line and return,

10 micron inline oil filter with filters removed from banjo bolts.

All new hoses

Locally tuned

 

 

Awaiting installation:

DW 850cc injectors

DW 65C Fuel pump

Upgraded TMIC

 

Without pump, injectors and additional IC cooling, you're likely at the top of what would hopefully be a conservative tune.

 

The 16g pushes you into "stage 3" territory. The "stages" are all just arbitrary though, just used as a general indicator of your mods.

 

This. Once you upgrade your turbo, and supporting mods, you've crossed the threshold into Stage 3 performance.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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...Without pump, injectors and additional IC cooling, you're likely at the top of what would hopefully be a conservative tune.....

 

Yes Sir, thus only 237HP. ;) I was pleasantly surprised at the torque number though. My local tuner also pushed the upgraded TMIC very hard... says it makes a big difference even after fuel system upgrade. I don't know what final boost level I will get to, but it won't be maxed out. This is my DD and it has some miles on it.

 

Another reason to watch the BarMan's closely as he is close to what I have, but a bit more with his exhaust.

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  • 1 month later...
05 LGT with stock VF40 104K. I know its bound to go sooner or later but can that be the shaft bouncing around? I know the sure way to know would be to pull the turbo but I just wanted to see if anyone has heard this noise before. I've data logged it but no knock detected there.

 

 

 

Here's a link to a video

 

Oh yeah. It was the turbo no doubt. Dropped in the BNR 18G this weekend and no more knock... just the gentle whir of horsepower waiting to be unleashed!

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  • 3 weeks later...
Turbo just went out on my 07 lgt, will be replacing it with a BNR 16g. However, my mechanic (who has replaced a lot of vf40's/vf46's with BNR or VF52) says that the oil line that Brian recommends is not necessary. He showed me the line and it looks like it has less oil flow than stock...the diameter of the inside seems smaller. Can anyone clear this up for me?
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Turbo just went out on my 07 lgt, will be replacing it with a BNR 16g. However, my mechanic (who has replaced a lot of vf40's/vf46's with BNR or VF52) says that the oil line that Brian recommends is not necessary. He showed me the line and it looks like it has less oil flow than stock...the diameter of the inside seems smaller. Can anyone clear this up for me?

 

I replaced mine with Infamous Performance v2 feed kit. At the very minimum you will want to remove the banjo. Keep in mind that Brian requires an upgraded oil feed for the warranty. One thing you know for sure is the stock oil feed is KNOWN for oil starvation, so it seems silly to argue a filtered feed line would suffer the same problem. You don't need the Infamous kit though. Brian offers a supply with his turbos too.

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He does? He didn't when I got mine last Christmas. And Storm since it is required by BNR to have a warranty, why not upgrade it? The stock line is a known problem. Both my banjo bolt filters were dirty... not completely clogged, but very dirty. Getting rid of them solves one problem the filtered unit takes care of.
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Last I heard Bryan stopped selling the FP line kit with his turbos. That doesn't mean he doesn't require you to have an upgraded line in order to get your warranty. The simple fact is that the TD05 and TD06 CHRA needs more oil volume to maintain that hydrodynamic oil wedge than the little VF-40 or even TD04 turbos. It's well documented now that the stock oil line may not be able to supply that much oil. Given the damage a grenaded turbo bearing can do to your engine, an upgraded line is cheap insurance.

 

If your banjo filters were very dirty you're either not changing your oil often enough, or you're using crappy oil.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Both my banjo bolt filters were dirty... not completely clogged, but very dirty. Getting rid of them solves one problem the filtered unit takes care of.

 

So is there really 2 banjo filters on an 05 lgt? I was told by Bryan personally that there was only one. I had asked him about installing the fp inline filter, and I mentioned something about a second banjo filter, and he said he didn't know what I was talking about...

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So is there really 2 banjo filters on an 05 lgt? I was told by Bryan personally that there was only one. I had asked him about installing the fp inline filter, and I mentioned something about a second banjo filter, and he said he didn't know what I was talking about...

 

With the IP&T kit you use a double banjo (supplied) on the front passenger side near the OCV. So yes there's 2 in that case because you're actually relocating where the oil draws from. I don't recall if there was a filter on the other banjo though... If you weren't to go that route then you would probably only remove the filter from the rear of the block.

I did say earlier that Brian offered a filtered supply. He offered it to me because at the time Infamous was between v1 and v2 and there wasn't a lot of other options. I did end up using the Infamous kit btw.

Edited by BrianEarlSpilner
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  • 3 weeks later...

Installed a new BNR 16G Infamous IP&T Filter & Oil Lines. Now need to get the system full of oil and antifreeze again before cranking. I know this is a basic question, but is the Legacy a mechanical oil pump or electic? I unhooked the spark plug wires and was just going to turn the motor over thinking this would allow oil to fill all the proper lines before actually cranking the car. Please give me some guidance here. . .alot of work don't wanna screw it all up.

 

Thanks,

Jim

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It's driven from the crank, and right behind the front pulley. I just pull the ignition fuse and fuel pump relay to avoid flooding and to be sure the motor won't fire up on residual fuel pressure. Crank over a few times, let the starter rest for a few seconds, crank again. A couple of cycles like this will be sure to get the lines full before start-up.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Hey guys I just took my fmic off the other day and noticed it's absolutely drenched in oil, I've only had the bnr16g installed since January. Could the turbo be blowing that much oil in the ic? Or do u think it's the pcv? Other than that it's been a good turbo
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It's driven from the crank, and right behind the front pulley. I just pull the ignition fuse and fuel pump relay to avoid flooding and to be sure the motor won't fire up on residual fuel pressure. Crank over a few times, let the starter rest for a few seconds, crank again. A couple of cycles like this will be sure to get the lines full before start-up.

 

Thanks for the tips! I turned it over several times to make sure things were lubed up and she cranked on the first hit. Running a little rough on the COBB Stage 2 tune, but been taking it easy on it until I get the eTune done. Super nervous about everything being good to go. . .don't wanna blow up another turbo.

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  • 5 months later...
the link to the very detailed of turbo issues history was a great help! Thanks. Wish I'd found this prior to purchasing the car ---:lol:

 

Just out of curiosity, if you knew about issues with the turbo, what would you have done?

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lol--I would not have bought 2005-2008 models if I had read about the difficulties before buying. I admit, had test run Subaru outbacks for a couple years and was certain Subaru would be my next purchase. Then, after driving my 1999 Landrover Discovery for 3 years, I test drove the 2005 Legacy GT wagon, comparing it to the Outback. The turbo won and I purchased it because of the handling and response. BTW, my 2005 Legacy GT is for sale now as is.
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  • 2 weeks later...

So if I want to really be somewhat overcautious and try to make my car last as long as possible, is this list a good starting point? My car has 144k miles on it, is stock (with Stage 1 AP tune), has the original turbo. This list comes from reading this and other threads that identify some of the causes of turbo/engine failures. I've done TB/WP already.

 

3k OCI w/ good oil (Rotella T6 is what I use)

Clean/Remove banjo filter screens

Clean/replace OCVs

Replace oil line with the Infamous one

Use the larger Mazda oil filter

Get off the stock tune (done, but is a custom e-tune better?)

 

Should I go as far as replacing the turbo now since it has so many miles on it? I'm very content with the performance of the car now. If I do replace it, would I be better off getting a rebuilt VF40 or getting a VF52 or BNR16g and a nice safe tune? I know I won't see the full potential of those turbos, which I'm fine with, just want something more reliable. I'd love to see this car hit 200k+. I love my car, and want to keep it as long as possible.

Edited by Sk8erOrd

2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium w/ PP (6MT)

2006 LGT Ltd 5MT OBP Cobb Short Throw Shifter | GS Catless Up Pipe Gone

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If you just want the same turbo - get a rebuilt VF40 from JMP / have yours rebuilt by him.

 

I would get a compression and leakdown test at a trusted mechanic ($150-$200) which will tell you the overall health of your motor.

 

If those numbers come back good and you are happy with the current performance, no real reason to get something with more power.

 

Just PM JmP6889928 about getting your current turbo rebuilt.

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If you just want the same turbo - get a rebuilt VF40 from JMP / have yours rebuilt by him.

 

I would get a compression and leakdown test at a trusted mechanic ($150-$200) which will tell you the overall health of your motor.

 

If those numbers come back good and you are happy with the current performance, no real reason to get something with more power.

 

Just PM JmP6889928 about getting your current turbo rebuilt.

 

Ok, I'll add the compression/leakdown test to the list. I am happy with the performance, but that doesn't mean I would argue if I could pull a little harder to redline (the rare time I run it that hard) if it didn't cost too much more in the way of reliability. Like if I'm going to get an e-tune anyways, and if it's not much more than the rebuilt turbo.

2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium w/ PP (6MT)

2006 LGT Ltd 5MT OBP Cobb Short Throw Shifter | GS Catless Up Pipe Gone

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