Reloadit Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 The car has just had the heads rebuilt and new timing belt and I have driven it for a month now, it was running great but gradually got worse until last night it just died and wouldn't start. I changed the fuel filter and wouldn't start and then sprayed myself pretty good checking to see if fuel was getting to the engine, it is. It is getting fuel to the engine. As soon as I can I will start checking wires and plugs and see if I can find out if the injectors are working but if anyone else has experienced this problem and knows something I would be grateful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 check the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 check the timing. The car ran extremely smooth when I got it back, could the timing still be an issue? I'm hoping the new belt or new pullys haven't malfunctioned. I will have my guy check them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 It could have jumped timing. You can check the actual fuel pressure to rule out a fuel pump issue. Even when they are dying they can still be delivering fuel but not at sufficient pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Park Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Do you have a check engine light on? For a $150 deposit you can borrow a code reader from Autozone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 I have had a check engine light on for a while, code was for the EGR system. I just pulled a plug to see if I am getting spark and I would say it is pretty poor spark. In 30 to 40 seconds of cranking I might get on spark or no spark. I do have gas to the plug hole. I don't see any loose plugs. Should I be looking at a relay or could it be something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Ground maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 weak, inconsistent spark could be the coil, a ground or a low battery. did you test the coil to see if it is within spec? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Ground maybe? I did ground the plug to the block if that is what you are thinking or are you thinking I am loosing grounding somewhere else. I am going to be testing the Crank Sensor to see if it is working properly soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I was thinking more of a loose ground wire. I had the ground on the intake manifold on the rear by cylinder 4 disconnected, it would turn over weakly but wouldnt start at all and the dash lights stayed on with the key out. Check the wire it may be loose enough to not be getting full current but enough to do the rest of its job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 I was thinking more of a loose ground wire. I had the ground on the intake manifold on the rear by cylinder 4 disconnected, it would turn over weakly but wouldnt start at all and the dash lights stayed on with the key out. Check the wire it may be loose enough to not be getting full current but enough to do the rest of its job. I will check it out and let you know. I cross my fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Ground is tight and clean. I guess I need to test the coil. I will google "testing coil" and see if I can do it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 What about the knock sensor, can it affect the spark? The guy who just put this car together and had it running fine shows on his receipt that he replaced the camshaft censor for the tune of $75 but it looks like an original censor to me so I still have that concern. This car has been a nightmare. Mostly my fault for not taking it to the subaru dealership for the original repairs. Now I've got over $4300 into a car with a ton of miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Testing the coil pack is easy. All you need is a multimeter. I posted the fsm procedure for testing the coil pack here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/coil-pack-throwing-sparks-202221.html?t=202221 A knock sensor can be bought on eBay for $15 shipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 It was running very well but it did occasionally stall when I came up to stop signs but it would start right up and then a few weeks later it just died at a 20mph stretch. I will get a friend to help me check the coils and then consider the knock sensor or rent the gadget to check the codes in my driveway. It threw the EGR system code for sometime but maybe it will show a different code now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenva Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 I've had no-start issues a few times on my 96. Crank sensor Engine Temp sensor (not the temp sensor for the gauge)Fuel Pump (twice) I was still getting fuel through the filter even though the pump kinda worked. The pump was not giving me enough pressure. RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 I've had no-start issues a few times on my 96. Crank sensorEngine Temp sensor (not the temp sensor for the gauge)Fuel Pump (twice) I was still getting fuel through the filter even though the pump kinda worked. The pump was not giving me enough pressure. It seems like poor to no spark which has me concerned. I haven't tested the fuel pressure because of the poor spark. Maybe my method of testing the spark is flawed. I remember checking the spark on my older trucks and I could just pull the plug attach it to the wire and hold it and see the spark. With the subi I don't see much spark holding or touching the plug to the block. I wish I had a buddy with a car like mine so I could compare. See what a working car is doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 http://i60.tinypic.com/2qmot50.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thanks Twisty, I have a legally blind buddy who is good with testing electronics I think between the two of us as long as I can read everything for him and he can point me in the right place to hold the leads I bet we can stumble through this. I can only see to 6 A: should I see the more of this diagram? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 nah the 6A is the ignitor, its on the firewall and connects to the coil. pretty rare for that to fizzle out. the coil and cables are the important parts to test, and thats the full info on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 OK, tested the coil and it is fine. Knock sensor tested 535K ohms and voltage too knock sensor tested around 3.51 and I guess it is suppose to be 5. Didn't test ignition ignitor, cam or crank sensors. Have to google how. We do have power to the coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 did you ever pull the timing covers and check to see if it was still on time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 did you ever pull the timing covers and check to see if it was still on time? Twisty, I didn't pull the timing covers to look at the belt. I'm saving that for the last. I'm a 'wantabe' shade tree mechanic, not because I wanna be though. I decided to throw $50 at it and ordered online the cam and crank sensors, things I know I can pull and replace. My buddy who helped me test the coil believes we would get some spark even if the timing is off. Though he is not a mechanic, electrician for the state of Oregon, he has rebuilt his own motors for fun and if it turns out the sensors do not fix the problem he will then help me with the timing if that is the problem. I'm humoring him right now. If it turns out it is the timing, you certainly are the one who called it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 the side covers can be pulled without too much teardown, thats all you need. no reason to go all strippy on the front end again to do a check. and if the timing is off, there is a sprocket that tells the ignitor what cylinder is where on the crank at the bottom, so there is a chance that there wouldnt be a spark without the timing being at least close to the marks. just something to think about. i have a ej25 torn apart completely if you need pics of things. lots of similarities between it and the ej22, except for the obvious whole 2 extra cams thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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