5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

I believe you can log it. I forget what it's called, something like AT Timing Retard. IIRC there might be 2 parameters associated with it, one is the 0/1 value for ON/OFF, and the other is a measure of the actual timing pulled.

And I have and I have not seen it change . And I know it's not doing it now because megasquirt

Yes which I have also done and have not seen a dip

So i am still experiencing some weird shifting issues with my 5EAT. In auto mode it seems to be shifting way early at low rpms.. around 35 i am in 5th gear and if i try to accelerate over 40% throttle, it just seems like i hit a rev limit around 3000 or 3100 rpm in 5th. But if i downshift to 4th and do 40% throttle, it would go all the way to 5000 rpm. In manual mode it is fine also. Could it be a grounding issue? I know my passenger side head (close to the manifold) ground wire is not intact or is it just normal 5EAT auto mode? Any way to reset the TCU or could resetting the ECU help?

that seems normal ^

ClimberD:

 

I believe I blew my center diff. Car still drives but it certainly feels like some teeth are missing or something.

 

Am I able to get parts / repair this or am I going to have to find a used trans / core to get parts from?

So i am still experiencing some weird shifting issues with my 5EAT. In auto mode it seems to be shifting way early at low rpms.. around 35 i am in 5th gear and if i try to accelerate over 40% throttle, it just seems like i hit a rev limit around 3000 or 3100 rpm in 5th. But if i downshift to 4th and do 40% throttle, it would go all the way to 5000 rpm. In manual mode it is fine also. Could it be a grounding issue? I know my passenger side head (close to the manifold) ground wire is not intact or is it just normal 5EAT auto mode? Any way to reset the TCU or could resetting the ECU help?

 

that is normal. it shifts as soon as possible in regular Drive. since you're in 5th gear with such low speed the torque converter just keeps spinning to let the transmission catch up to the engine for that speed/gearing.

Mine was rebuilt a few weeks ago. The shop was able to source used parts for about $400 (dealer was over $1000). Expect about double the parts cost to re- and re-, plus drop the VB to be flushed out, and change the filter in the fender behind the battery.

 

These are Canadian costs, by the way.

 

My autoslalom launches are now not as fun.

 

Sympotoms: could turn the wheel to about 90 degrees in either direction before a crunching sound and thumping that felt like it was right by my leg. Highway driving was fine. Parking lots, intersections and driveways - not so much.

 

ClimberD:

 

I believe I blew my center diff. Car still drives but it certainly feels like some teeth are missing or something.

 

Am I able to get parts / repair this or am I going to have to find a used trans / core to get parts from?

Mine was rebuilt a few weeks ago. The shop was able to source used parts for about $400 (dealer was over $1000). Expect about double the parts cost to re- and re-, plus drop the VB to be flushed out, and change the filter in the fender behind the battery.

 

These are Canadian costs, by the way.

 

My autoslalom launches are now not as fun.

 

Sympotoms: could turn the wheel to about 90 degrees in either direction before a crunching sound and thumping that felt like it was right by my leg. Highway driving was fine. Parking lots, intersections and driveways - not so much.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I'm 99% sure that's what blew on mine. I have all used parts on order and scored a great price!

 

Thanks for the reminder about the filter. I didn't realize one was there.

yea the intermediate shaft is like 700$ from the dealer..

 

best is to get another tranny and swap out the parts.

yea the intermediate shaft is like 700$ from the dealer..

 

best is to get another tranny and swap out the parts.

 

Yeah man, I searched around and saw the pricing. Ouch.

 

I lucked out and found a COMPLETE center differential, even includes the tail housing. Got a great price on it shipped. This guy was parting out a 5eat for some reason but the center differential was in good condition.

 

I have yet to pull mine apart, will soon though and post some carnage pics for everyone's enjoyment.

 

 

EDIT: I have the tail housing off and sure enough the planetary gears are stripped. I will pry the assembly out soon for pictures.

Edited July 23, 2014 by firehawk618

Anyone hear from Dave lately?

5th gen gear ratio...

 

Does anyone here know where to begin the process of changing the gear ratios?

 

My goal is to get about a 10% increase in acceleration.

 

I saw the following post, but it deals with a manual transmission, and an older car.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gear-ratios-86386.html

Get smaller tires.

 

I actually contemplated that.

 

If I run a 255/40/17 (Toyo R888) I will be ~4% compared to stock. I want a bit more than that.

 

I also thought of 245/40/17 race tires (same or more grip than my 275s...falken azenis 615k). This would net me 5% and drop my unsprung weight by at least 6# per corner, but I will have to hassle with temperatures and I would be claiming that I am running race tires instead of street tires.

 

If I can have a permanent solution, it would be great.

take 10% weight out of your car

or put a turbo

 

to physically change ratios is possible but difficult. but the problem is the ecm will freak out and the trans may not shift properly.

take 10% weight out of your car

or put a turbo

 

to physically change ratios is possible but difficult. but the problem is the ecm will freak out and the trans may not shift properly.

 

Spare, jack, headrests (not drivers) and whatever is not bolted down comes out. I am afraid to take out anything else. The thought crossed my mind to take off bumper covers to get to and cut out or remove material. I have not looked under there.

 

I am running a single exhaust for reduced weight. I just started dieting to cut down on my added weight.

 

Not sure about ecm freaking out. It defintely shifts automatically at redline. Mid rpm shifts are related to load??? Dunno.

 

A supercharger is now available, but this motor was not designed to cool while creating 400 hp. I am contemplating it but very scared about overheating the motor or tearing the crud out of the transmission that wasnt designed for such power. If more than one guinea pig had it, I may be inclined to do it and run a lower boost.

 

A header and another tune are in my future plans.

 

I am tracking the car. I want to stay light, sensible, and careful with what I mod.

 

Changing the gear ratio seems like the logical next step. What I really want is a manual transmission but I have searched that path and spoken with a shop that has done such work on Subarus but 4th gen. They explained the process as very difficult and are dubious of their abilities to do it for a 5th gen. Bolting it up is not the issue...it is the computer.

 

I was hoping to get some initial info but I suppose I will have to chat with them once again...this time about my gear ratios.

 

I hope this will not be another dead end for my car.

the tcu wants to have matching output for input , other wise it will set undfeined ratio codes. they could be turned off. but some one else on here had a shit load of problems changing their tranny to one with different final drive ratios.

 

i'm sure you can easily get away with supercharger kit . and you don't have to per say go to 400 hp you can change pulleys to select the boost you want.

 

and most of the 2.5 turbo guys dont have cooling issues making 400+ hp.

 

what will make the most heat in your situation is the torque converter when its not locked.

the tcu wants to have matching output for input , other wise it will set undfeined ratio codes. they could be turned off. but some one else on here had a shit load of problems changing their tranny to one with different final drive ratios.

 

i'm sure you can easily get away with supercharger kit . and you don't have to per say go to 400 hp you can change pulleys to select the boost you want.

 

and most of the 2.5 turbo guys dont have cooling issues making 400+ hp.

 

what will make the most heat in your situation is the torque converter when its not locked.

 

 

Frank, if you know who did the swap, I'd love to know.

 

I am not changing the entire transmission. The idea is to swap out the front pinion and ring and swap the rear differential from a 2013 Tribeca. The tribeca is the only 5EAT with a 3.58 versus my 3.083 final drive. The 16% gain will help a lot.

 

I started down the path of getting a quote from a local shop that has done a lot of work for me. They don't specialize in Suabarus.

 

If there is going to be an issue, I'd like to nip it in the bud right now.

 

Again, we are not swapping out the transmission...just front and rear diffs. Do you see a problem with that, and would you be able to point me to the person who did the swap.

 

Cheers,

Fredrik

you might as well swap trans missions. much easier provided they are compatible.

 

but i am quite sure you will have check engine light issues specifically because the different ratios. and i have no idea how you would get rid of them.

 

the 05-07 outback xt has 5 eat with 3.58 ratios also

you might as well swap trans missions. much easier provided they are compatible.

 

but i am quite sure you will have check engine light issues specifically because the different ratios. and i have no idea how you would get rid of them.

 

the 05-07 outback xt has 5 eat with 3.58 ratios also

 

Yep...we discussed just swapping in a transmission. However, there are three things that hold me back.

 

1. Most used transmissions have at least 40,000 miles on them. I am at 17,000 and I know how I have treated it.

 

2. Even though it is the same transmission, there may have been upgrades year to year so I don't want to go backwards.

 

3. 2013 tribeca transmission has lower first second and third gears than the legacy. The 16% gain with just the diffs is more than enough and it would be cheaper overall.

 

There may be a hidden 4th reson as you mentioned. If I stick with my transmission, the ecu/tcm see the same ratios. I am guessing there is no electronic control beyond the transmission other than stability and traction control.

 

This is going to be a costly experiment. If we did entire transmission and diffs, we are looking at around $5000. $3000 transmission...unless we find cheaper.

 

I am waiting on pricing for brand new front and rear diffs from tribeca and an estimate of total cost. My guess is $1700 for front and rear and 8 hours of labor at $120. If I can do this for around $3000, I will have less concern over the wear of a used tranny and potential computer issues...fingers crossed.

 

A supercharger is not looking too bad but at nearly three times the price and some added weight.

Yeah, the trans and the abs/wheel speed sensors might not cooperate with the lower gearing.

 

I am curious to see what you find out though.

If I were in the position to replace the trans, I'd limp the one I have and make sure the replacement has a new set of clutches in it, depending on mileage. I'd have a good trans shop handle the assembly, cleaning, etc.

Fresh engine rebuild, but I must admit, I know nothing when it comes to the 5EATs.

 

First couple of trips up and down the block last night, it drove fine.

 

Let it sit for ~24hrs and tonight, it starts up and runs fine, but it won't shift from Park.

 

There's no feeback from the brake pedal, as is normally there to indicate a Park switch - Which wires/stuff should I check to resolve this?