DIY: DownPipe Install

I initially balked at the idea for fear of rusty, scary bolts and nuts. But, thanks to a lift, and all tools I needed, the install went very well - 2 hours, even with me stopping to joke around and chat with friends there.

 

First I removed the heat shield. More bolts there (10mm) than on the turbo/downpipe itself. None were hard to reach. Along the passenger's side, there's one down there - a small wrench had it off easy. Feel around the casing and you'll be able to remove the heat shield from the top after you find the nuts (6 or 8 I think).

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69287&stc=1&d=1244731600

http://www.d-mphotos.com/images/specb/downpipe/downpipe1.jpg

 

Three 14mm bolts hold down the TIMC - there are two off the turbo, and one on the upper right of the IC. Channel-lock pliers help the hose come off the BOV, and a screw driver to release the hose clamp around the intake inlet elbow thing.

 

http://www.d-mphotos.com/images/specb/downpipe/downpipe2.jpghttp://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69288&stc=1&d=1244731600

 

Now that the IC is out of the way, you'll see two bolts/nuts there on top, with a bracket. Those are 14MM as well - loosen those, then find the nuts on either side. Reaching your hand around it's possible to remove all the bolts on the DP/Turbo from the top.

 

 

As an aside, sprayed them down the night before with PB Blaster. They were so easy to come off, I was shocked - just torqued nicely, no worries.

 

Now, get under the car. There are two brackets holding on the stock piece, on up near the trans, and another down on/near the cat. They are 14mm as well. Only the one near the cat will be re-used. While you are there use a 22 open end to loosen and remove the O2 sensor.

 

Where that pipe connects to the y-pipe, there are spring-nut things. On the nut side it's a 12MM, on the other side it's a 14. The way mine were angled I used a 14mm socket one and a 12mm wrench on the driver's side, and a 14mm wrench w/ a 12mm socket on the passenger's side.

 

When everything was off, I had a friend use a pry bar a bit to move the pipe off the bracket near the O2 sensor. Once that got bent a little the whole thing came down.

 

Compare - see what the WG opens into on the OEM? A metal plate. A wall.

 

http://www.d-mphotos.com/images/specb/downpipe/downpipe3.jpghttp://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69289&stc=1&d=1244731600

 

As a pre-caution against the Invidia WG flapper-tapping, I grinded down near the top of the divorcer, to help ensure clearance.

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69290&stc=1&d=1244731600

http://www.d-mphotos.com/images/specb/downpipe/downpipe4.jpg

 

The Happy Machine!

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69291&stc=1&d=1244731600

http://www.d-mphotos.com/images/specb/downpipe/downpipe5.jpg

 

Just as easy, the new one went back up!

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69292&stc=1&d=1244731600

 

You can see the bracket towards the bottom there - down near where the two pipes are touching (but not yet lined up). That's the bracket we pried a bit to get the OEM pipe to drop. Also - there's one bolt you'll have to get from under - and you'll have to use a wrench. The way the pipe works, there's no clearance for a socket.

 

http://www.d-mphotos.com/images/specb/downpipe/downpipe6.jpg

 

After everything was tightened up I took to grinding/trimming down the Heat shield. I WISH I had remembered to take a photo of it. I'll find a photo of a stock heatshield and mark where I cut it.

 

Now - everything is back together and I'm set! I get the whistling/chriping - makes me think there's an exhaust leak. But I'll work those out eventually. As far as sound? To me it sounds like a tractor now.

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69293&stc=1&d=1244731600

 

Good write up!

 

I see you have the limited addition Spec B waste gate flapper.

Thanks (the wheel is also larger in that pic, too - but nobody notices )

 

I have a question for you, can you drive a car with a dp and no tune to the tuners location, around 20 miles, i got a Cobb DP and waiting to get it installed

Sure thing. Just don't go crazy. If you're into OpenSource type tuning I suggest (WARNING: NO AFFILIATION other than BEING A CUSTOMER. Me suggesting folk GO to this site, and contact them in NOW WAY implicates me as a part of this BUSINESS) visiting www.camtuning.com.

 

 

For the record - I STILL have a HORRIBLE exhaust leak at the junction tween the DP and the OEM exhaust. Going to give it one-more try before taking to a muffler shop.

 

For the record - I STILL have a HORRIBLE exhaust leak at the junction tween the DP and the OEM exhaust. Going to give it one-more try before taking to a muffler shop.

 

 

Did you use any type of sealer? If not, try the permatex ultra copper, held every joint in my exhaust w/o leaks

Gonna try that next; thanks Regal.

 

:beers:

Did you trim the lower section of the heatshield too? I couldnt figure a way to get it it trimmed and retain enough points to keep it from rattling, basically i didnt reinstall the lower section, which I think was a mistake and i may give it the ole college try.

I did trim it - I have 4 bolts in, IIRC. I'll take it out this weekend and get pics for ya, aight? So...check back. To date, no audible rattles.

Nice writeup.

nice write up. Your car sounds like a tractor now? any other aftermarket pipes or just the DP?

did you put the donut gasket back on to your DP-exhaust connection?

Thanks - Just the DP and an Exhaust leak where it meets the OEM Catback.

 

LOTS Of whistle, too - as I rev. REALLY like that sound; second only to a VTA EWG.

heres my stupid question...what is the difference between the uppipe and dp? plz excuse my ignorance im new to turbos...

The UP goes form the exhaust manifold, and leads up and into the turbo. The downpipe (DP) comes out the backside of the turbo.

Awesome writeup!

So I installed my HKS downpipe about a month ago. Had a leak between the new DP and OEM straight pipe (go figure, I didn't have a gasket). I ordered two gaskets 3" gaskets and smashed thoughs suckers in there with a little copper sealant. No more leak.

 

I get a lot of whistling and popping when on the throttle hard. Makes me think that I have a leak at the turbo but I installed a brand new gasket during the install. I was told since it is the DP a small leak isn't a big deal but I would like to get it resolved. Any ideas?

 

Also, I got ride of the spring bolt BS connecting my new full size DP with the OEM straight pipe. Is this going to be a problem or do a lot of people do this? I just couldn't get a tight seal with the spring bolts.

 

Thanks,

 

Sean

updatd pics

subscribed for my swap this weekend.

Okay this is an old thread but relevant:

 

-Is removing the intercooler required? Or does it just make it easier?

-How hard is it to reach the 3 bolts on the bottom of the turbo? How do you reach them?

-How hard will this be with only rhinoramps?

-How important is it to have a torque wrench when putting it all back together?

I think removing the IC is required. It's very easy to do anyway..

 

Pain in the butt to reach. I can't recall if I reached from top or from under.

Pain in the butt using on-ramps - unless you're a guy that likes working on cars.

I don't recall torquing anything.

Did mine without removing the IC. It would make it easier with it off though. Also did it on ramps, but then again I do pretty much all my work on ramps.

Okay this is an old thread but relevant:

 

-Is removing the intercooler required? Or does it just make it easier? Not required, but takes 10 minutes to save an hour.

-How hard is it to reach the 3 bolts on the bottom of the turbo? How do you reach them? Only the bottom bolt needs to be reached from below. All the other 4 can be reached from the top. A ratcheting wrench works best. From the bolttom you can reach right up over the axle.

-How hard will this be with only rhinoramps? Ramps work great, I love them.

-How important is it to have a torque wrench when putting it all back together? Well... I like to at least torque the turbo bolts. I believe it is 35ft/lbs. CBE is 13ft/lbs for spring bolts. You could do it without, but...

 

Ratcheting wrenches and PB Blaster are your best friends when swapping a DP.

^^^ Good words.