Brake Replacement

Will be doing brakes soon. Looked at a lot of different brands and types. Ran across the Power Stop 1-Click kits. They have a front and rear kit that includes new drilled and slotted rotors with their Z16 ceramic pad kits. All four rotors and pads all the way around for around $330. What do think? Good deal, waste of money, or ? Would I be better off having stock rotors turned and going with a different pad? Any input would be appreciated.

I never bother to turn rotors. I buy ones that I use with the same pad a few times and then discard them.

 

So I'm a big fan of blank low cost rotors and a decent set of pads. Right now I'm running autozone's most expensive ceramic pad with a lifetime replacement program and their rotors.

 

I like for best feel endless pads. That $330 isn't bad for slotted rotors, but do avoid drilled, it's not what you need.

I bought the same setup. The ceramic pads are fine with little dust or squealing. The rotors feel like they have started to warp after 20k.

Here is my other option other than going with separate rotors and pads rather than a kit. Powerstop KOE286, front and rear standard rotors with ceramic Z16 pads. All for under $200. Thoughts?

Here is my other option other than going with separate rotors and pads rather than a kit. Powerstop KOE286, front and rear standard rotors with ceramic Z16 pads. All for under $200. Thoughts?

 

Either one should be fine. If you're not tracking the car, then drilled rotors work fine. They can crack between the holes if you do a lot of hard braking, enough to cause a bit of fade.

 

I run Centric Cryo rotors (no holes or slots) front and rear and Hawk HP+ pads but I track the car. I also have Goodrich stainless hoses and run Wilwood EXP600 brake fluid and I never have any fade although I flush and fill the entire braking system each time I go to the track. I also built my own front rotor venting and they work quite well.

 

For a daily driver, either one of those kits will work fine. If you want the look of the drilled rotors then spend the extra but they won't give you any better braking.

I bought the same setup. The ceramic pads are fine with little dust or squealing. The rotors feel like they have started to warp after 20k.

 

Did you bed the pads properly? That can make all the difference in the world on the rotors. Generally (not every time but a lot of the time) the rotors feeling warped is because not enough of the friction material is transferred from the pad onto the rotors and it causes high and low spots.

 

If you're not sure whether or not you bedded the pads properly, here's how you do it:

 

Go out and do 4 stops from 35 mph hard (quickly stop but don't attempt to lock them up) but don't stop completely-roll through just before you completely stop in order to keep the heat from transferring to the rotor.

 

Then go out and find a spot and do 2 stops from 60-70 mph hard but again, roll through just before completely stopping.

 

Do a couple more 35 mph runs same way and then drive the car for about 10-15 minutes to let everything cool off and then do a normal stop and you should have good stopping power with good pedal feel.

 

Will be doing brakes soon. Looked at a lot of different brands and types. Ran across the Power Stop 1-Click kits. They have a front and rear kit that includes new drilled and slotted rotors with their Z16 ceramic pad kits. All four rotors and pads all the way around for around $330. What do think? Good deal, waste of money, or ? Would I be better off having stock rotors turned and going with a different pad? Any input would be appreciated.

 

Not a big fan of the slotted/drilled.

 

We recommend the Centric Premium non-drilled/non-slotted combined with either Hawk HPS or Stoptech Street Performance pads. We've installed 100s of these on customer cars and use them on our track cars as well.

 

Shoot us a PM and we can make you a price.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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^^^^There you go Glen.

Mike beat me to it, buy from him.

The rotors feel like they have started to warp after 20k.

 

Rotors don't warp.

PM sent to AZP Thanks!

Rotors don't warp.

 

Generally they don't warp as you said, usually it is pad deposits on the rotors throwing off the balance causing vibrations.

 

If the rotors are slotted and drilled and of poor quality, they can warp from overheating. Very rarely seen this but it is possible.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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Rotors don't warp.

 

For him it's probably pad deposit.

 

I can ensure you given enough heat, and cooling cycles rotors do warp. I've done it with properly bed rotors. I've done it twice on this car (seems the brakes are slightly undersized for this car).

 

I'll have 10K with a properly bed set of rotors and pads. Feeling silky smooth. Go for fast afternoon in the mountains and by the end of a few hours I've warped some rotors. If I do the same run in the S2000 the rotors never warp. Only thing I can figure is my brakes are the same size on the S and for a car 700-800lbs lighter. With that lovely weight/heat curve the rotors/pads on the Legacy are getting a lot hotter.

For him it's probably pad deposit.

 

I can ensure you given enough heat, and cooling cycles rotors do warp. I've done it with properly bed rotors. I've done it twice on this car (seems the brakes are slightly undersized for this car).

 

I'll have 10K with a properly bed set of rotors and pads. Feeling silky smooth. Go for fast afternoon in the mountains and by the end of a few hours I've warped some rotors. If I do the same run in the S2000 the rotors never warp. Only thing I can figure is my brakes are the same size on the S and for a car 700-800lbs lighter. With that lovely weight/heat curve the rotors/pads on the Legacy are getting a lot hotter.

 

The brakes on the LGT are more than adequate for 99% of the driving done with them. They are only a few mm smaller than the rotors found on the STi.

 

If you are warping rotors, there is likely something wrong with your brake system. Which pads/rotors were you using for these runs in the mountains? What kind of elevation changes? Speeds? I'm curious.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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The brakes on the LGT are more than adequate for 99% of the driving done with them. They are only a few mm smaller than the rotors found on the STi.

 

If you are warping rotors, there is likely something wrong with your brake system. Which pads/rotors were you using for these runs in the mountains? What kind of elevation changes? Speeds? I'm curious.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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Mike I totally agree. For most drivers, 99%, they're plenty good. The feel is poor and the performance lacking. But they're large enough for normal driving.

 

I've run on factory pads/centric rotors now autozone ceramic/autozone rotors. The car will no longer be pushed in such a fashion and has become a commuter car for me.

 

I bed my pads in until they nearly smoke. No actual stopping and no ABS. They get a good 30-40 minute cool down drive in a remote area. I can smell pad when bedding and they're regular warm when I park it.

 

Elevation changes of 4500 feet to 8,000 and back several times in an hour or more. Speeds faster then most would drive on the track. Before I get flamed we're talking about roads not traveled and in areas of very low population.

 

Normal driving and I never have a problem.

 

I've experienced this before on an old 2000 TL. It was a simple case of weight meet brake issue. Warped a lot of rotors until I switched to slotted and stoptech to reduce the problem. At the same time I tamed the driving in that car and bought a track car. My opinion is a car of these weights require bigger brakes with better cooling to avoid regular warping. I'm not up on all things STI but I do believe they're a bigger pad, playing with peak pad temps, transfer and the like.

Mike I totally agree. For most drivers, 99%, they're plenty good. The feel is poor and the performance lacking. But they're large enough for normal driving.

 

I've run on factory pads/centric rotors now autozone ceramic/autozone rotors. The car will no longer be pushed in such a fashion and has become a commuter car for me.

 

I bed my pads in until they nearly smoke. No actual stopping and no ABS. They get a good 30-40 minute cool down drive in a remote area. I can smell pad when bedding and they're regular warm when I park it.

 

Elevation changes of 4500 feet to 8,000 and back several times in an hour or more. Speeds faster then most would drive on the track. Before I get flamed we're talking about roads not traveled and in areas of very low population.

 

Normal driving and I never have a problem.

 

I've experienced this before on an old 2000 TL. It was a simple case of weight meet brake issue. Warped a lot of rotors until I switched to slotted and stoptech to reduce the problem. At the same time I tamed the driving in that car and bought a track car. My opinion is a car of these weights require bigger brakes with better cooling to avoid regular warping. I'm not up on all things STI but I do believe they're a bigger pad, playing with peak pad temps, transfer and the like.

 

Gotcha, speed and elevation and car weight will definitely play into it.

 

We did a lot of testing on track and found the only streetable pad that also works on track are the carbolorain pads. We found all the other streetable pads would get embedded in the rotors and track pads were too aggressive and would grate down the rotors on us.

 

STi pads are slighly larger but not really a factor IMO.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

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Gotcha, speed and elevation and car weight will definitely play into it.

 

We did a lot of testing on track and found the only streetable pad that also works on track are the carbolorain pads. We found all the other streetable pads would get embedded in the rotors and track pads were too aggressive and would grate down the rotors on us.

 

STi pads are slighly larger but not really a factor IMO.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

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I think you're findings confirm what I've experienced, seen and read. If the pad doesn't deposit on the rotor it often glazes over and can become useless.

 

I personally think I've over looked the impact of elevation changes in my particular situation. Come from 80 to 20 flat is one thing. On an 8% grade even more heat.

 

As funny as this sounds, I'm very happy with these low cost autozone pads. I wouldn't track them but for street use they're just fine. Quiet, no dust, smooth, good initial bite and life-time replacements.

I installed Centric premium rotors 2 years and 16k ago (rockauto.com) they've been working great, asked for Mike @ AZP's opinion and bought the Hawk's from him, they're great too!

So I was going to order new parts for my brakes. Thought I would have a look at them first. Pulled off the fronts and the pads look almost full thickness. Reason for investigating brake parts was for inconsistent steering wheel shudder. Sometimes it would be severe and other times almost nonexistent. Pulled rotors off and used every cloth to break glaze, also used a scotch bright on an angle die grinder. Sanded the pads until the glaze was gone. Reinstalled everything. Took it out and went through the general bedding. A number of medium almost stops from 35-40mph then a number from 50-60 without complete stop. Drove around without using much brake to cool and then drove home being easy on brakes. The next day, vibration was gone and nice smooth stops. So far so good. I may do the rears next. Have been told the oem pads cause uneven buildup on rotors and under hard braking, can clean off somewhat. Then it comes back. Time will tell. Anyone have thoughts on this? Rotors are in good shape. Only 65k miles on car. Thank you all that have offered help and suggestions. If I do go with new parts down the road, I will be going with AZP for sure!

So I was going to order new parts for my brakes. Thought I would have a look at them first. Pulled off the fronts and the pads look almost full thickness. Reason for investigating brake parts was for inconsistent steering wheel shudder. Sometimes it would be severe and other times almost nonexistent. Pulled rotors off and used every cloth to break glaze, also used a scotch bright on an angle die grinder. Sanded the pads until the glaze was gone. Reinstalled everything. Took it out and went through the general bedding. A number of medium almost stops from 35-40mph then a number from 50-60 without complete stop. Drove around without using much brake to cool and then drove home being easy on brakes. The next day, vibration was gone and nice smooth stops. So far so good. I may do the rears next. Have been told the oem pads cause uneven buildup on rotors and under hard braking, can clean off somewhat. Then it comes back. Time will tell. Anyone have thoughts on this? Rotors are in good shape. Only 65k miles on car. Thank you all that have offered help and suggestions. If I do go with new parts down the road, I will be going with AZP for sure!

The only problem with hand resurfacing rotors is being uneven in the process. Typically you 'turn' them to ensure even removal.

 

If your results are good thus far, no reason to think there is anything more to be done.

Didn't really remove material. Just broke the glaze that was on them. Will see how it goes and if the vibration comes back, may just turn the rotors and go with an aftermarket pad.