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Project Legacy Gt outback begins...


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Just an update, total failure on install the trailing arms...

 

The aftermarket arm lacks the curve of the stock arm....there wasn't enough clearance for the adjustable toe link.

 

I guess I will go without it for now. Need to do some more research.

 

Anyway, some pictures just for fun.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/23/120f388a89f49a85c2b991543bfa4bc9.jpg

 

 

 

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Edited by rpmk104
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OP you can try SPC's Performance Rear Adjustable Camber Arm (67660), it comes with a round toe adjuster that needs to be installed with the arm so you can increase your OEM toe adj range. SPC is good stuff man, I've been running on it for a few months now.
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Yeah. But I don't really understand why he needs to change the trailing arm at all. I don't see the benefit.

When you lower or raise a car beyond the intended usage of the geometry, trailing arms start to push or pull the wheels backward or forward in the wheel arch and changing the rear caster and toe.

 

A longer trailing arm becomes necessary when raising the car.

Edited by GTEASER
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Trailing arms for the outback are the same as the gt.

 

The outback got around the problem by have rear spacers that drops the rear subframe back into spec. However, this means you lose some ground clearance from the lift.

 

I could get the outback subframe spacers but I would rather get a longer aftermarket trailing arm.

 

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Since I have an extra set of trailing arms I might play with the idea of making my own urethane offset trailing arm bushing.

 

I think I can squeeze out and additional half an inch length wise with the offset bushing.

 

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Mounted the tires. Nice and Meaty.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/28/b8bf92f2dad94e6c6e630916351c8c9e.jpg

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/28/f6542b213aff5130fa59c22399c82a3f.jpg

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/28/5056f18ecb7e01e3636e184558ef9cbd.jpg

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/28/fd48402eeaa507980206d011910f19d9.jpg

 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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Got the alignment. The maxed out camber in the front was one approximately -1.3. Left front with the driver in the car becomes - 1.3.

 

Front caster is out of spec, but this is the expected with the suspension lift.

 

The shop was surprised at how stiff and well dampened the suspension setup was.

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/28/cdbe685b86889eff6aeea570783b95d8.jpg

 

 

In the future, I plan on getting the offset control arm offset bushings to fix the caster issues.

 

I am looking into getting stronger and longer rear swaybar endlinks. I have the thicker sti swaybar installed, the weakest link in the rear is definitely the stock endlinks.

 

 

Aside from that, car handles great. Since I replaced most of the rear rubber bushings with spherical bearings, I definitely noticed an increase in road noise. But it's not too bad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Edited by rpmk104
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I have AVO front control arm bushings for sale.. I used one of the castor correction ones, so thats no good to you but I have both the front ones if you are looking for those too. I never ended up using them. THey are brand new.

 

Regarding caster, you need more than half a degree. I would go with the caster offset strut mounts from Primitive Racing. They add 0.7 and also a bit of camber I think which you could use by the sounds of it.

 

You could probably use both, since your caster is about 1.5 degrees low.

 

 

Regarding the trailing arms.. Just eye-balling it, it looks to me like the front trailing arm bolts are similar to the inner toe arm bolts. If so, you could maybe use the eccentric bolts from the toe arms at the trailing arm mount and get some adjustment that way. Just an idea.

 

I assume you are not using them anyway... I have a set here left over since I have the SPL eccentric lockout kit holding my megan toe arms in place. I'll throw them in for free if you buy my Primitive Racing rear diff skidplate and/or my front control arm bushings!

 

If not... then you could always get the OEM trailing arms modified by welding some plate steel to the ends with new holes.

Edited by brandon.mol
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Also.. these might be useful??

 

http://get-primitive.com/alignment-solutions/340-team-dyn-15x7-5x100-matte-blk.html

 

They aren't meant for this particular application, but they may work if they will bolt in where the trailing arm bolts to the chassis.

 

The guys at primitive racing are very experienced when it comes to lifting Subarus.

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