Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

DIY Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement Walk-through w/.pdf


Recommended Posts

I did both rear wheel bearings on my 2005 Legacy GT Wagon this past weekend. As promised, here is my walk-through of the process.

 

I took over 40 medium-res pictures to accompany this walk-through, but for some reason, some of them are MIA on my camera card, so apologies in advance that the pictures I typically include are not all there.

 

The Walk-through PDF is attached.

 

LMK if you have any questions.

4th Generation Subaru Legacy Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement Walk-through (Complete).pdf

Edited by SBT
Attached complete walk-through PDF
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Great write up there, SBT

 

You can use a slide hammer to remove the old hub too.

 

I used one from Harbor Fright, it worked but I broke one of the pieces, so I took it back and got my money back.

 

I recently purchased the KD slide hammer from tooltopia.com for less money shipped.

 

I'll replace the right rear soon. Then I will have all new wheel bearings on the 05.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Max, thanks for the suggestion on the slide hammer. Any possibility of damage to the CV joint or to the diff-side connection beyond that? With the puller, it was a nice, easy transition off the shaft. There was the potention for ~1-1.5" of movement on the shaft (back and forth) while taking the hub off, which is why I opted for the puller. Also thanks for the link to the tool place... good stuff.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slide hammer works fine without damage to the CV joint or to the diff-side. I replaced 4 front wheel bearings & 2 rear wheel bearings over the 197+ miles on my GT. The only thing I would add, is do not use slide hammer to remove wheel bearings if not replacing the wheel bearings. I have pulled the hub right out of the bearing assembly twice out of the 6 wheel bearings I have replaced.

 

Pics. of my slide hammer I put together. I used a old hub & adapted to my slide hammer.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0418002052a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0421002035.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0421002113.jpg

 

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0418002051.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0418002052.jpg

 

Mike

Edited by HAMMER DOWN

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Like Mike said, becareful with the slide hammer, I also began to pull the bearing out of the hub. I stopped and let the PB Blaster do its work, after about 15 minutes I was able to tap the backing plate with the hub out of the spindle.

 

I did my right rear, the last of the 4, saturday. My wagon has all new hubs now.

 

Just read you link, I have not removed any of the ABS sensors when doing this job.

 

I would also suggest you get a 3ft pipe for the breaker bar.

 

 

Also a 1 1/4" socket is the same as a 32mm.

 

Why did you say to pull the battery cable ? That sounds like something out of the shop manual. They seem to pull the negitive cable for everything.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure how removing the HBA without removing the ABS sensor is possible. It sets into the groove. Mine wouldn't come out without pulling the sensors one each side, actually hung-up on the first side, and I realized I'd missed that. One of the steps in the FSM.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My wagon is a early 05, made in jun 04...

 

I did wipe the ring ont he axle CV before I installed the new hub, but mine don't come that close to the sensors.

 

I put a thread up back in April I think it was with a few photo's. I'll try and find the pictures, but the house is a mess with having oak floors installed this week so I don't have a home PC right now.

 

I also laid the parking brake/backing plate on 4x4's with 2x4's and drove the hub out of it.

 

Also if you put some anti-seize compound on the two 8mm bolts before you thread them into the brake rotor.

 

I also recommend anti-seize on all the bolts and lug nuts.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find the hardest part is getting the 4 bolts back into the new hub, just trying to line up the threads. But I'm 57 y/o and don't see so well in low light conditions.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Max - Think I detailed this in the walk-through .pdf, but I pushed the bolts through the rear trailing arm and the backing plate so they were just jutting through, then held the HBA in place with one hand, while I reached around with the other hand and hand-tightened the bolts into the new HBA. Once they're started, you can just run them in the rest of the way with your ratchet and then torque to spec. Was actually the easiest part for me. And same age, same issues... ;)
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea, I have to admit I didn't take a lot of time trying to line up the backing plate, Hub and the spindle before I started sticking stuff back together.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Awesome walkthrough, thanks. Of course no part exposed to the elements is easy to remove on a Subaru with 140k New England miles on it. Like Max Capacity, I had to remove the hub and backing plate together, then encourage them to separate with PB Blaster and a 3lb hand sledge.

 

Also, the rotor was very difficult to remove, had to retap the M8 bolt holes and use some long bolts to force it off the e-brake. One left to do, when I can face it again...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I set my brake to take off the axle nut, since both axles were in the air. Then released it to pull the rotor off. Some PBB around the rotor-to-hub interface helps to release some of the rust around that area and free up the rotor when you run-through the rotor pull-bolts.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Did you pull out the ABS sensor before you pulled the HBA? If not, it could be broken or cut (hope not) and would need to be replaced. Did it seat well when you put it back in?

 

Recommend taking it out - clean everything around/in the seating area - and then re-seat it. The other thing to check is the connector - make sure it didn't come apart somehow in the process.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use