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Rotor Warpage?


j255c

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I apologize if this has been posted before. I took my car out on a drive today, and the brakes just dont seem to bite like they did when i had the car for the first 5000 miles. The steering wheel shimmies when i brake, and it feels like a studdering/vibration when braking instead of a solid brake feel. Its hard to describe, but could this just be that my rotors are warped, and need to be resurfaced?

 

Thanks,

Jeff

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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Do you get the shimmy/shake on highway speeds only or even at city speeds?

 

Resurfacing is a temporary fix, because the stock pads suck and will crap out again. My front rotors were resurfaced twice and they still shaked at high-speed braking. The solution is aftermarket pads. After replacing mine with Endless Vitas and without resurfacing my rotors, brake shake is history.

 

Search for "brake shake"

I keed I keeed
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they just need a little resurrfing that what mine was doing and took back to dealer after a few 120 to 60 hard braking closed roads and all:icon_twis

 

now you're just re-creating more deposits and shaving your brake pads away. :lol:

 

 

just left foot brake and do it at 40 mph.. that'll get the rotor nice and clean again.

Keefe
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^^Don't be surprised if it doesn't work. Xenonk's technique works when the pulsations have just started. If you have had them for a bit, you have basically carburized the pad material into the rotor face. This deposit now becomes much harder than the rotor itself, so it will not be cleaned off by the pad.

 

You'll need to cut/resurface at that point, and if the deposit was deep enough it'll come back shortly after. Your only recourse after that happens is a new set of rotors, and to avoid this in the future, upgrade the temp range of the pads. The other major cause of deposits is holding the brakes when hot. Avoid this and you'll resolve this issue permanently.

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Originally I contacted a company based in CA by the name of Stopcheck....they were able to get them though a dealer in NC By the name of Import Tunerz.

I had to wait almost 6 weeks before getting them. I know the drilled just adds Bling but they perform great:)

They are also several pounds lighter than the stockers.

Toyota 6EATS .........SUCK!!!!!!
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I really don't like crossed drilled brakes and there slotted don't they come with directional vanes they will just stress crack and clog up the holes maybe the slotted might help this but I have crossed drilled on my 300tt and every single rotor has stress cracks and alot of them are filled up with brake pads:icon_bigg
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  • 2 months later...

ima resurrect this thread zombie style cos its the only one that appeared to be what I'm looking for.

 

I just got off the phone with my service department. My car has just over 12k miles on it now and this is the 2nd time the rotors have been turned due to warpage. they also have to replace my pads because they've been destroyed by the warpage.

 

I asked him since this was the 2nd time these rotors have done this if it was a better idea to replace them, they said SOA does not allow subaru to replace rotors?! how can they know of this signifigant problem (as a lot of people on the forum have had it as it is my understanding) and basically stone wall us? they're supposed to care about customers wanting to come back, not treat us like roaches! I like the service department, they seem pretty honest, but I'm kind of angry at SOA about this.

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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SOA will replace the rotor's once they have been worn beyond the min thickness specs. Yours apparently, have not hit that point just yet.

 

As for the rotor's being blamed for the problem, they/you are wrong! It's the pads! The rotor's are actually quite good for pillar veined rotors, but the pads absolutely stink. They quickly heatup outside of their temp range and begin dropping deposits on the rotors, and hence the pulsating/warped rotor's syndrome.

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^^Don't be surprised if it doesn't work. Xenonk's technique works when the pulsations have just started. If you have had them for a bit, you have basically carburized the pad material into the rotor face. This deposit now becomes much harder than the rotor itself, so it will not be cleaned off by the pad.

 

You'll need to cut/resurface at that point, and if the deposit was deep enough it'll come back shortly after. Your only recourse after that happens is a new set of rotors, and to avoid this in the future, upgrade the temp range of the pads. The other major cause of deposits is holding the brakes when hot. Avoid this and you'll resolve this issue permanently.

 

+1 The stock pads are prone to deposits.

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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It is the pads. You can keep going back back to the dealership in hopes that it will help solve the problem. IT WON'T, unless you drive nicer. I agree that Subaru should solve the problem (warranty, new car blah, blah blah....) but they won't. It is a FACT, ACCEPT IT!

 

Get the rotors turned, and drive the car like a grandma until you get some aftermarket pads in, then go nuts and enjoy!

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yeah. im really conflicted at this point about what i want to do next. Get a protune from tdc since i have the perrin tmic and am completely catless, get some s-techs and cusco f+r sways, or get some carbotech bobcat brake pads and ss lines ;(. Im feeling the brakes are the next wisest step.
06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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I dont recall buying an AWD turbo car to drive like a grandma.. if I wanted to do that I coudl have gotten a camry :lol:

 

seriously tho... so who makes a good set of aftermarket pads for us? I'm sick of this..

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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