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Hi guys need some help again.

 

My BL5, sedan manual turbo is going really good,

Its still all stock parts nothing has been changed.

I have a few mates who like to take their cars on nice drives down windy narrow bumpy roads with alot of corners and heavy braking.

 

They have Interga Type R's and Mr2's.

 

Well i decided that i would join in with this cruise,

So i follow at the back behind them.

I was having problems keeping up with them. Everytime i got a bit of speed up i had to hit the brakes, and around the corners i couldnt keep up and they all dissapeard, so i had to start pushing my car abit more. Well the more i started to push it the harder the car was to control and the back just kept on stepping out and i had to keep buttoning off the gas.

I was getting really decent speeds in the corners aswell and my passenger said why cant you catch them your going pretty fast around the corners and on the straights. It just seems that my car doesn't like really narrow sharp corners. Has anyone else had this problem if so what is the cause and how can i fix it?? (other then getting mods) I have pretty new tyres, wheel balanced and alignment so its not the tyres that are causing the issue.

It seriously feels like a boat when u enter a deep corner on the brakes then try and power around it but the back doesnt want to follow. Please help

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New struts and springs, appropriate sway bars (front to neutralize the oversteer) and track time with an instructor to learn how to steer the AWD system through corners (throttle is your friend)

 

Yep pretty much what he said.

 

Better brake pads may help too.

 

Koni yellow inserts and Epic springs help a lot too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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How old is your stock suspension...?

 

My wagon had stock suspension till Jan 13, once the Konis and Epics were installed it tranformed the car, it now handles better them my 09 Spec B.

 

The stock Spec B needs sway bars.

 

The wagon is on the stock sways.

 

Was taking the wagon thru a climbing left hand bend the other day on back roads, in 3rd gear, had to miss the potholes while feathering the throttle. To miss one of the pot holes had to point the front end towards the telephone pole, yet give it a little more throttle to settle the car and keep turning. The wagon never miss a step. Never crossed the center line. I was doing about 50mph at the time.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I would suggest:

 

1. Master Cyl Brace - for better pedal feel

2. Stainless lines for safety and feel - don't like rubber lines for caynon runs

3. Driver training - Get some track time with an instructor

4. Drive within your limits - the car feels unsettled but it will take a pushing

5. Suspension - after you've improved your skills consider upgrading where needed after learning the car

 

I've found the car really wants to under-steer while close to the limit. The right application of throttle can help. The AWD system is very forgiving and can help pull you out of a lot of corners. Proper gear selection will be key.

 

Please though don't learn on the streets.

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OP is your car an AUDM or JDM model? Did it come stock with Bilstein shock/struts? As the other knowledgeable folks have said upgraded suspension and tires can take you there but those FF and MR cars are also lighter than your AWD Leggy.
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I've found the car really wants to under-steer while close to the limit. The right application of throttle can help. The AWD system is very forgiving and can help pull you out of a lot of corners. Proper gear selection will be key.

 

Please though don't learn on the streets.

 

 

 

That's why they make big empty parking lots... during a snow storm...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks for all your comments,

Yeah im not really into the whole going hard and fast around corners etc, Not my thing. I just feel its to much of risk, as for my tyres i have

Dunlop Fast Response...

Ive never heard of a 1. Master Cyl Brace I know what a master cly is etc but never heard of a brace you can get.. more info on that please :)

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The brace stiffens the firewall around the area where the MC mounts. Under heavy braking the firewall can flex.

 

If you drive like that a lot it may be nice to have.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Check out grimmspeed.com for a master cylinder brace. It's just a piece of welded steel plates in the right configuration to mount to the strut tower and then brace the master cylinder. Due to the way the stock master cylinder is mounted to the firewall, you get a bit of a mushy brake pedal feel when the firewall sheet metal flexes when depressing the brake. The brace shores that up and improves the pedal feel. Note: the brace does not actually improve braking or stopping distance. However it can instill a little more confidence in the driver under heavy braking. Honestly, it's more of a preference thing than a truly necessary mod.

 

A set of good summer tires will significantly improve handling and grip. Do NOT drive in the snow on summer tires. It is unsafe (even with awd).

 

Enjoy!

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  • Moderators
The master cylinder brace is not a "performance" upgrade--it does not help the braking distance really at all, it's just a "feel" thing. Stainless brake lines would also be at the bottom of my list as far as "things needed to keep up with your friends"...

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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take a driver skills class to learn what you can do with your car...look for a marquee car club to offer it - Porsche, BMW, Audi all do this.

 

next take a hpde class - high performance driver education class from similar orgs.

 

going fast on twisties is about managing speed. The adage "slow in, fast out. Fast in, dead out" holds true regardless of what you drive.

 

your tires are likely the same or less width as your Honda buddies and less performance oriented. Tires make a huge difference in your ability to stick a corner, after learning proper way to get through them.

 

reading reviews of this high perf all season touring tire indicates this is not best tire for spirited driving of twisties on less than good roads.

 

mcb - waste of money, its the last thing to change

if you not into the going hard and fast into corners thing, alot of suspension changes will make you sad. If you can find someone with your car who has made suspension changes ride with them to get a feel for it first.

a brake pad upgrade is worth considering if you had spongy braking at the end.

 

if this route is something you do occasionally, and you like your car's performance the rest if the time, I would advise minimal changes. Otherwise you'll get a canyon carver that sucks everywhere else.

 

the suspension forum has lots of good advice on what works. Well worth reading.

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http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=UHP

 

Are those your tires?

 

In no particular order, I'd do these as others have mentioned.

  • better tires, although the survey results show dry traction is fine I guess
  • brake maintenance/upgrades (pads and fluid replacement)
  • driving instructor and practice
  • suspension maintenance/upgrades (your car is 10 years old! suspension stuff is wear and tear!)
  • power mods

 

I bolded the item that I think makes a huge difference.

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I wouldn't expect a stock LGT to keep up with an ITR on a canyon road, considering equal drivers. The power is pretty equal but the suspension is not. At all.

 

I would visit scca.com to find your local scca chapter and start autocrossing with them. I honestly wouldn't touch the car other than to replace worn out things. At this point that is probably shocks and maybe a few bushing. Learn how to drive the car first, then you will know what you should add in order to make the car better.

 

Spongy brakes are more likely a symptom of brake fluid than pad. Cook the pads and the car just won't stop, no matter how much pedal you give it. Start with a brake bleed, either with Castrol GT-LMA or Motul 600. I run Castrol in all my street cars, but it wasn't high temp enough for the race car. As far as pads go, something along the lines of Hawk HP+ will handle anything you should be throwing at it on the street or autocross. They'll even handle your first couple of track days, before you learn how to brake. With an AWD car the last thing you want to do it lift out of it. It's more likely it needed more throttle. But again, go get some seat time.

 

The cheapest way to take a couple of seconds of your time is to change drivers.

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Wow thanks guys, always so helpfull!!

Ive got alot to think about now. I have mates who have adjustibles in their WRX's and damn the ride is so bumpy so yeah i dont really want that type of ride lol.

Yeah my tyre is on that list.

driving instructor and practice ill look into that.

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