htioki Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Looking for a DIY guide for power steering replacement for 05-09 2.5i. Can anyone help? I did search and read through the threads that came up, but none of them are DIY guides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 I just replaced mine..twice(don't ask) and it's very simple. Do you have a Haynes book? I followed the instructions from that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htioki Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 I don't have a Haynes. I'll see if I can get a used one from Amazon or ebay. But if anyone cares to share, I'd really appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 (edited) Removal + install *I also added pages PS-6/ME(H4SO)-40 that are referenced on the installation page. Edited January 4, 2014 by apexi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Bump to the top. I just used this to remove the leaky pump on my wagon. Hard to find a clear leak but there was a pool of fluid on top of the engine block under the pump. Not sure what I'll do. I might just order a pump from NAPA in the morning. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Max Capacity, mine is doing the same. Can't find a leak, fluid not low, but crap all over the place. Did you try changing the o-ring on the input or outlet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) Not yet, Picked up the reman pump today. Funny, I've been emailing my buddy at the parts counter at the dealership most of the day...I have the printed papers with the PS pump right in front of me. Do you think I have enough sense to ask him to get me the 34621AC024 U shaped bracket and crush washer for the supply hose...DUH. So now at home I call and he'll order it on Monday, to late to order today... item 7https://subaruonlineparts.com/sop-parts/#parts Edited October 21, 2016 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 The pump is installed, had to use the cut off wheel to take a little material off the pump so it would fit into the bracket. Just have to wait for the "item 7" crush seal to come in Tuesday. Filled the coolant, added some PS fluid to the tank. The front of the car is still up in the air, tomorrow I'll put the lower engine cover back on. Had it off to fix an exhaust leak, that's in a different thread in the 4th Gen forum. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) Well over night with the supply hose and banjo bolt just stuck into the pump, there was a nice puddle of fluid on the driveway...duh. So I put the old crush washer on filled the tank, and started the engine. I wanted to make sure everything was good and no exhaust leaks, see other thread. It's getting cold out and I didn't want any surprises Tuesday after work when install the new crush gasket. It will be easy to replace that item 7 crush gasket before dinner on Tuesday. the temps will in the 40'sF. Edited May 2, 2019 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 (edited) So last evening, in 15 minutes to replace the crush gasket and get the car back on the ground. During the test drive I noticed the brakes fell spongy. When I pulled back in the driveway and opened the hood, I noticed the brake fluid was a little low... after going to NAPA to get fluid, I noticed the brake fluid was much lower. Seems that "junction box" that the recall was for finally began to leak. AAA flat bedded the car to the dealer last night. Looks like the PS pump wasn't leaking, but I really didn't have enough run time to tell. Still lot's of smoke from all the fluids and new DEI exhaust wrap. The car drove ok for the mile or less. Edited October 26, 2016 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 What's the junction box recall? I have similar symptoms and was considering replacing the pump...now I'm not so sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I believe he's referring to the brake line joint connector recall, there are some pictures in the link below. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/05-09-legacy-outback-brake-line-corrosion-recall-204831p2.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Ah ok, I've already been in for that one. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 More questions about the PS Pump replacement- 1. I've noticed some of the pumps recommend installing a filter, have any of you done this? 2. Have you guys been replacing the reservoir tank as well when replacing the pump? I've seen that recommended as well. 3. Same thing goes for hoses, I've seen them replaced to get rid of any contaminants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Did this last night with a new Cardone unit from Rockauto. Not terribly difficult, but you do have to keep all the fasteners straight and know what you're doing. The leak had pissed ATF all over EVERYTHING so the job was utterly filthy. Nitrile glove manufacturers lick their chops at this sorta thing. Results: whine is gone, no detectable leaks, steering is much smoother. I reused "part 7", the crush washer bracket thingy. I may pick up a new one at some point but...if it doesn't leak...who cares... I didn't use any of the crush washers or O rings that came with the pump (the infamous O-ring had already been replaced recently so I reused the OEM one. Looked like better material). Oh, also the back bracket bolt that is a PITA to get to- I cross threaded it putting it back into the block. Bummer. Be careful putting that one back in, its not easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonyr Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 2008 leg 2.5 n/a Had my rack done and had the pump replaced while it was getting done. I watched the pump primed by hand till the reservoir was being filled through priming the pump. Mechanic changed the o ring wich was included in the Cardone p. S pump. Turn and steers excellent. Only problem is it now makes a whinning sound. This is the 3rd Cardone pump they had to out on. The first 2 where not primed and seized instantly. That's how I know they primed the last one. It's been about three weeks since the job was completed. Any one have any suggestions. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 I would check to see how much deflection there is in the power steering belt, maybe it's too loose or too tight. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3173288&postcount=8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 I'm getting ready to do this job myself....ANY Suggestions? Do I have a filter on my 06 gt sedan? Is one reman pump better than another? I plan on replacing some of the old hoses... Anything I should watch or for? Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 What kinds of aftermarket PS pump have you guys gonna with? Oem it's crazy expensive...or reman Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) I used an AC Delco remanufactured pump on my non-turbo legacy. Don't do what I did. In the first picture, I thought I could just remove the bolt outlined in red, pull the pump out, and be good. It doesn't work, you can't take that bolt out all the way to get the pump out. The bolt outlined in green is one of the 3 bolts you need to remove to get the pump off the block. When the pump and bracket are removed from the car, that's when you remove that bolt outlined in red. In the second picture, the bolt outlined in green is another bolt you need to remove to take the pump off the block, the bolt outlined in red is the 3rd bolt. The bolt outlined in red appears to have red threadlocker on it from the factory, but it didn't give me much trouble coming out... I replaced all 3 bolts by the way, that's why they look so new. Weird ocd habit of mine... The replacement bolt that I outlined in red came with red threadlocker pre-applied to it. In the last picture, there are two torx T40 bolts that you need to remove as well. Also in the last picture, you need to remove the nut from the PS pulley, and transfer the pulley to the new pump, unless you buy a pump that comes with a pulley. I sprayed that nut for a few days with penetrating oil before doing the job since I was worried about it giving me trouble after like 210k/8yrs, and it came off without any issues (Just to be clear, I thought that the pulley would be hard to pull off the pump, but it wasn't. I sprayed it with penetrating oil from the front and back for a few days beforehand). I think that nut is 17mm or 19mm, I just zipped it right off with an impact gun. I replaced the crush washer on the pressure line that exits the pump, not sure if you have to, but it's cheap. My new pump didn't have the pressure sensor on the back of it, don't forget to take that off and transfer it to the new pump. Not sure what else I did.. It's a pretty easy job, shouldn't give you much trouble. Edited December 19, 2017 by apexi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelshum Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Used 2 reman Cardone pumps and both failed quickly (within 5000miles) got fed up with them and went with OEM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Used 2 reman Cardone pumps and both failed quickly (within 5000miles) got fed up with them and went with OEM People over at subaruoutback-dot-org say you're much better off with an OEM pump from a junkyard than any kind of rebuilt one. I got one for $75 off a 60Kmile junker from LKQ. Haven't installed it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonyr Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Cardone pump on my 08 legacy sucks. Did a whole rack and pump job. The pump just has a constant whine. Any pump you install its important to prime it correctly. fill it through the feed line on top of the pump turning the pump manually and keep filling it until you see the reservoir start filling. This will insure your rack and line are full and pushed all the air out from pump all the way out.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 (edited) Any pump you install its important to prime it correctly. fill it through the feed line on top of the pump turning the pump manually and keep filling it until you see the reservoir start filling. This will insure your rack and line are full and pushed all the air out from pump all the way out.. When I first attempted to solve my issue by replacing the suction hose o-ring, I tried to do the priming by turning my pump (original one) by hand. I never could get a drop of fluid to come out of the disconnected return hose. However, turning the steering wheel back and forth seemed to get the job done. I dunno if that's because my pump is so trashed that it can't move fluid when it's being turned that slowly (by hand) or what. EDIT: My pump appears to be fine. PS is good now that I've gotten all the air out of the system. I guess the turning it by hand thing just doesn't work if there's too much air in the system. Edited February 15, 2018 by RustyShackleford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Used a new CARDONE SELECT 965196, primed properly and it has worked great for 12,000 miles over a year now. Was about the same price from rockauto as some of the remanned ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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