CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

This was plan A:

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/turkeylord/2005%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_5041.jpg

Plan B uses a 1 gallon can and ditches the dip tube on the syringe.

The downpipe seems to be the main thing that suffered the deer running, though the plastic belly pan is worthless now too.

Looks pretty nasty...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0946.jpg~original

I had an exhaust leak from the oring and from where the primary and secondary connected, you can see it being slightly bent.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0948.jpg~original

Stock vs Stromung Divorced Shorty and unknown secondary part.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0949.jpg~original

Stromung Divorced Shorty

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0952.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0953.jpg~original

Not sure what turbo this was meant for, but with VF40 it wouldn't go any further.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0964.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0967.jpg~original

Used a carbide burr and compressor to cut it out

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0970.jpg~original

Wastegate flap fully opened and it moves freely now

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0975.jpg~original

Secondary and cat

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0956.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0960.jpg~original

Turbo looks good, I checked for shaft play and it seemed pretty decent actually.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0963.jpg~original

Installed on the turbo, sadly still have deer fur everywhere...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0988.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0982.jpg~original

Spent a good amount of time cleaning up the midpipe and the doughnut gasket crud from it...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0985.jpg~original

The stock bolts wouldn't close the gap all of the way so still had an exhaust leak. Had to get new fully threaded bolts to get it close enough not to leak (not pictured).

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/CIMG0984.jpg~original

Required Tune Changes

Disable Rear 02 (if not running one)

Disable AF3 Correction and Limits

Stock Wastegate Duty cycle map:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/WGDuty-Stock.jpg~original

I subtracted 10 points across the whole map, that got me to very similar peak boost, but with boost coming along much earlier still.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/WGDuty-All-10.jpg~original

Here is some virtual dyno runs. Getting rid of the down pipe increased the boost by 1-2psi, boost comes along much sooner with this downpipe, which is a problem if left untuned.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/StockvsAftermarketDownpipe.jpg~original

I did a 300 some mile roadtrip today to Global Rally Cross (GRC) up at Washington DC, it around 80*F so not even a hot day, came back and saw a ton of knock down low. Sadly this means I have to reduce boost more down low @3200rpm and less.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/0620_DP_WG-10_330milesCity-Highway.jpg~original

MPG Gains

I had the best MPG gain by running 15* of AVCS advance, before the deer wreckage I was testing 20* and saw somewhat minimal gains. I think this was because I was starting to get too much reversion. With the freer flowing downpipe, it seems to like 20* advance a lot more.

Going to GRC we were in a hurry and where going 75mph plus had a good amount of city driving while in metro area, this netted me 25.7mpg which is still fairly good. On the way I fueled up and avoided traffic/city driving and stayed at 70mph, this got me an impressive 31.7mpg. Once I get the WG Duty table back to stock levels down low will see how the car does on a more controlled highway trip.

Brakes on this car have been subpar since I got it in November. Trying to be minimalistic with this car I was trying to hold off until I really needed them. Couple weeks back I started hearing a metallic rubbing sound, but it would go away if I slammed on the brakes enough, but it was time to get new pads at very least.

After inspecting the front and rear rotors & seeing the not so nice grooves in them it was time to just replace it all. Now I usually will run Brembo Blanks + Hawk HPS's on my Nissan's, but this car is not a race car like those are, thus I didn't want the price tag, noise, or dusting of them. Plus I wanted to see what the Centric rotors where all about, since Subaru owners seem to love them.

Part Numbers:

Front Rotors - Centric 120.47024

Rear Rotors - Centric 120.47025

Front Pads - StopTech 309.10780

Rear Pads - StopTech 309.07700

They look pretty nice, I do like that they are prepainted, which should keep them from rusting slightly longer then Brembos. The rotors do seem to be very nice, I pretty pleased with the quality.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1042.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1046.jpg~original

Centric vs 10 year old stock one.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1047.jpg~original

Front Rotor and pads installed, I will say the front pads where a PITA to get in, I was very tempted to shave them down a bit.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1048.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1049.jpg~original

Rear rotor stock vs centric.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1053.jpg~original

StopTech vs what ever I had on there before, the original pads are worn at an angle...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1052.jpg~original

Rear rotor and pads installed, these pads went right in.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1050.jpg~original

Bedding in new Brakes

Now the crucial part to proper braking, bedding them in! These pads took a lot more 60-10mph stops, before they started to fade, then any other pads that I've used. This could be due to the different material that is used in them. The initial bite greatly increased about after about four 60-10mph stops, while most other pads would be fading away at this point. In total I probably did ten 60-10mph stops and a bunch more random speed to 10mph stops while I was driving around.

After I got home, checked the rotors, they are starting to look nice and smooth.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1057.jpg~original

Though I did notice that he rear pad wasn't fully contacting the rotor...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Rotors-Pads/CIMG1058.jpg~original

I just put that combo on my car about a month ago and took it to a track day. Worked really really well. No fade during the whole event. (My tires aren't grippy enough)

However, those are not a low dust pad compared to the crappy OEM pads. I am ok with it because they stop so much better.

Still fighting with the tune trying to get the boost down between 2k and 3k rpm.... might have to set the WG tables to all 0's and see if it still overboost there.

Why do you want to get the boost down?

Why do you want to get the boost down?

Because I'm getting a ton of knock down low. It's also because I am running 20* of avcs at those ranges, I knocked it down to 15* after not being able to reduce boost and hoping that will reduce my knock.

Agreed, just uploading to the site is not fluid, and not as easy to embed images. Plus it makes it harder to upload to other forums then too (most forums require you to have a local account to see locally hosted images). I just puckered up for a pro photobucket account so I have unlimited bandwidth now. This site is hit a TON more then the Nissan forums I frequent. I had the free account since 2007 with 10gb bandwidth and never had issues. As soon as I started posting images here, hit 10GB in two weeks .

Now I probably wont pay for Photobucket forever, so I will try to upload images to the How To's so they do stay on this site for ever (maybe even PDF's).

thank for your photos and instructions. where did you get your rotors, I am looking to do the same.

Thanks . I highly suggest getting them from the local forum vendors if you can. I was on a time and money crunch so I pieced them from multiple vendors. Like the front I got from a random ebay seller who had two of them for $45 shipped (open box). Rears I got form Rockauto, I shop at Rockauto for all of my cars, so it was convenient one stop location.

Next batch I'll try to support local vendors though.

I've been eyeballing front strut bars for a bit now, with such a big car there is plenty of chassis flex. Decided to get a JDM STI BL/BP Strut bar since they are cheap (under $100), Looks good and fits good.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257470&stc=1&d=1509457724

Had to wiggle it a bit to get it in place.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257471&stc=1&d=1509457724

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257472&stc=1&d=1509457724

Plenty of room between the TMIC and the bar, I do wonder if it will clear aftermarket TMIC's.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257474&stc=1&d=1509457724

There is also enough room to remove the brake reservoir cap.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257475&stc=1&d=1509457724

All done, fits well and looks great.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257473&stc=1&d=1509457724

Good score!

Under $100 where?

Agreed, just uploading to the site is not fluid, and not as easy to embed images. Plus it makes it harder to upload to other forums then too (most forums require you to have a local account to see locally hosted images). I just puckered up for a pro photobucket account so I have unlimited bandwidth now. This site is hit a TON more then the Nissan forums I frequent. I had the free account since 2007 with 10gb bandwidth and never had issues. As soon as I started posting images here, hit 10GB in two weeks .

 

Now I probably wont pay for Photobucket forever, so I will try to upload images to the How To's so they do stay on this site for ever (maybe even PDF's).

Hi, I would be soooo happy if you can upload the AVCS sheets again. I am to do the same on my car

These tools may be a good alternative. I haven't used them yet, but I will buy some when I need to. Pictured below is just one of the useful-looking tools they make.

 

http://www.company23.com/subaru

 

http://www.company23.com/image/cache/data/subaru/500/500-iso-228x228.jpg

I ended up with the AMS ones, the belt idea didn't work and I ended up replacing 2 a the gears.

Hi, I would be soooo happy if you can upload the AVCS sheets again. I am to do the same on my car

Rehosted

With the warm weather here, I wanted to play more with AVCS. Previous best highway MPG was 26.9mpg with this tune plus Closed loop to Open Delay disabled.

 

New map:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/AVCS15.png~original

 

Compare that to stock map:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/05LGTStockAVCS.png~original

 

This increased the gas mileage to 28.1mpg with AC running full blast! Please note this is actual MPG (not gauge) done by calculating miles driven divided by gallons filled up. I also account for speedometer inaccuracies (mine is off by -1.5%). I'm surprised it's this high with closed loop to open loop disabled, usually that will lead to worse gas mileage because you hit rich AFR's instantly instead of having a buffer of leaness when you add throttle.

Hi, Many thanks for uploading the sheets again.

Would you suggest some additional changes on this as I am running on 95 octane, not 81 as I suppose you are doing in US?

Hi, Many thanks for uploading the sheets again.

Would you suggest some additional changes on this as I am running on 95 octane, not 81 as I suppose you are doing in US?

I'm running 93, thing is I don't octane rating will affect it that much. Now that's it's warmer I plan on testing the stock AVCS table again, because I did notice that winter gas/weathers hurt gas mileage on these cars a lot.