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What did you buy for your 5th gen today? - V3


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I couldn't justify the woosh for the extra 120
I had a hard time justifying it too, but I got this one on an eBay auction for $104. It was brand new, never used but partially installed once. The guy discovered his girlfriend bought the wrong one for his car, a Mazda or Audi or something, when the recirc hose didn't fit. He needed the model with the small 24mm fitting on the recirc side. I was so excited when I found it!
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How's response been with the Hardrace mount so far? What differences do you notice?
Have only driven a few miles since I installed it, but it's very noticeable for sure. I can feel the power being applied to the pavement much better. I think it probably makes a more distinctly noticeable difference with a manual tranny than an automatic, because your clutch foot is so connected to the control of the drivetrain, but I'm sure those of you with autos will definitely be able to feel some difference.
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I'm 99% sure I know the answer is yes, but I'm assuming this also fits the 3.6R just the same as well? It's a mod I've had my eye on for a while, though I wouldn't likely be doing it any time soon. And how rough was the install? Recommended shop install or doable with a friend and some jacks for someone with a bit less knowledge like myself?
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I just installed an upgraded BPV yesterday as a pre-caution. I feel like the car is holding boost better but it is not a scientific test. The is some more noise but it is only re-circ so it could just be my mind.

 

I would definitely agree, if you can remove the passenger side radiator fan it will make your life alot easier. Its just two 10mm bolts, an electrical connection that is easy to get at and wiggle the fan out around the upper radiator hose. The hose connecting the BPV to the Charge pipe was the hardest to remove. I did this when the car was cold, it might be easier if the car is warm. The Clamps holding the BPV are both the locking spring and standard worm gear type. I would recommend trying to "lock" the spring clamp underneath first and then loosing the worm gear second so the screw part doesnt slide to the underside of the hose. It is helpful if you have a mechnics mirror for this.

 

When removing it seems like removing the hose from the BPV to turbo inlet has to go first and then the Recirc hose is second to wiggle out. To install you have to do Recirc hose and then turbo inlet hose because of the lack of wiggle room.

 

I have one of these tools and it always makes my life easier for trying to pry parts out of tubes. Just becareful not to stab yourself or anthing else, but I like this tool because you can generate alot of localized leverage and get between teh part and tube. Here is the link:

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/lisle-4148/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/mechanics-tools-16816/cooling-system-tools-18949/hose-remover-tool/80230/4414194

 

I have found this removal tools helps seperate the parts that glue themselves togethor overtime without damaging the hose or OEM part. You can feel the parts letting go of eachother through the tool.

 

I would also recommend using a little silionce spray during reassembly, I never like putting parts in completly dry. but all you need is a little spray and dab to coat the surface.

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I just installed an upgraded BPV yesterday as a pre-caution. I feel like the car is holding boost better but it is not a scientific test. The is some more noise but it is only re-circ so it could just be my mind.

 

I would definitely agree, if you can remove the passenger side radiator fan it will make your life alot easier. Its just two 10mm bolts, an electrical connection that is easy to get at and wiggle the fan out around the upper radiator hose. The hose connecting the BPV to the Charge pipe was the hardest to remove. I did this when the car was cold, it might be easier if the car is warm. The Clamps holding the BPV are both the locking spring and standard worm gear type. I would recommend trying to "lock" the spring clamp underneath first and then loosing the worm gear second so the screw part doesnt slide to the underside of the hose. It is helpful if you have a mechnics mirror for this.

 

When removing it seems like removing the hose from the BPV to turbo inlet has to go first and then the Recirc hose is second to wiggle out. To install you have to do Recirc hose and then turbo inlet hose because of the lack of wiggle room.

 

I have one of these tools and it always makes my life easier for trying to pry parts out of tubes. Just becareful not to stab yourself or anthing else, but I like this tool because you can generate alot of localized leverage and get between teh part and tube. Here is the link:

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/lisle-4148/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/mechanics-tools-16816/cooling-system-tools-18949/hose-remover-tool/80230/4414194

 

I have found this removal tools helps seperate the parts that glue themselves togethor overtime without damaging the hose or OEM part. You can feel the parts letting go of eachother through the tool.

 

I would also recommend using a little silionce spray during reassembly, I never like putting parts in completly dry. but all you need is a little spray and dab to coat the surface.

 

What kind of bpv did you end up going with?

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According to the Prothane website, the only difference is that the black ones have a tiny little bit of graphite in them, or something like that. Think the innies and outies are the same, though.
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What kind of bpv did you end up going with?

 

I wanted to stay full recirculation and go with a design that looked as close to stock as possible.

 

So I went with the Turbosmart TS-0203-1223 Kompact 34 mm Plumb Back Universal Fit Blow Off Valve.

 

It was around 125 on Amazon, and I have to say it is working really well. I am thinking my BPV might of been not holding boost very well. But I don't have any scientific data to prove it.

 

I also zip tied the vacuum line before I slid it on and put a little spit on the barb fitting to make it more slippery and hopefully help glue it a bit. I remember hearing people use to use hair spray on barb fittings for extra bite.

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I wanted to stay full recirculation and go with a design that looked as close to stock as possible.

 

So I went with the Turbosmart TS-0203-1223 Kompact 34 mm Plumb Back Universal Fit Blow Off Valve.

 

It was around 125 on Amazon, and I have to say it is working really well. I am thinking my BPV might of been not holding boost very well. But I don't have any scientific data to prove it.

 

I also zip tied the vacuum line before I slid it on and put a little spit on the barb fitting to make it more slippery and hopefully help glue it a bit. I remember hearing people use to use hair spray on barb fittings for extra bite.

Have you data logged to make sure the BPV's spring tension is set properly ?
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I wanted to stay full recirculation and go with a design that looked as close to stock as possible.

 

So I went with the Turbosmart TS-0203-1223 Kompact 34 mm Plumb Back Universal Fit Blow Off Valve.

 

It was around 125 on Amazon, and I have to say it is working really well. I am thinking my BPV might of been not holding boost very well. But I don't have any scientific data to prove it.

 

I also zip tied the vacuum line before I slid it on and put a little spit on the barb fitting to make it more slippery and hopefully help glue it a bit. I remember hearing people use to use hair spray on barb fittings for extra bite.

You must not have run across all the posts discussing our stock BPV, which is actually designed to leak boost. :wink:
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Just purchased the following lighting items:

 

-2010-12 OEM Foglight Bezels (L/R) - (57731AJ19A/57731AJ19A)

-TYC 2017 Mustang LED Foglamp Assemblies (CAPA certified) - (19610900)

-Lamin-X 3.75" Round Overlays (Yellow)

-iJDMToy 9005 LED Hi-Beam/DRL with R8 DRL Module

 

Found discount codes for everything as well, and I think I got stellar deals on everything spent today (~$220 for everything mentioned). :)

 

Before I get too much guff about the last item, I randomly came across them and the module they have claims to retain DRL functionality in LED hi-beam applications (they also had a module specific for our make/model/year, so that made me slightly more confident). It was $19.99 for the two bulbs and $6.99 for the module. I figured for that cheap, I can just SEE if they work as stated. If not, I'm not out a huge amount. If they DO work, it's likely the module might work for other, higher-end LED bulbs, and we may have a DRL solution after all.

Edited by Humble Rumble
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I bought new brake caliper bolts and new shims, next I need to buy brake fluid enough for a flush and fill after replacing calipers and brake lines. I have nearly everything in place for this Saturday.
Did you make sure to get the 08-14 STi rear caliper bolts? They are longer than the 04-07 ones. Part number should be in my build thread.
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Got a couple things yesterday.

 

-VLED V6 Triton Red 7443/7440 for my brake lights. I like the performance of the cheap Amazon red LED I have in there, but I'm still getting occasional dash trees while driving, and I think it's messing with my TPMS, so I just want it all working again. I'll move the Amazon bulbs to the trunk lights.

-HRW Type Roof Spoiler. Haven't found a roof spoiler I love for our car yet, but this one is the most unique design I've found made for us. Has a notch in the middle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/272991164900

-OEM mounting hardware for foglights. They are zip-tied right now lmao. Used QuirkParts.com to find the correct part numbers, honestly loved their site. Better diagrams and interface than the OE parts site.

-Some glossy carbon-look EZ lip to put under my existing lip. :lol: Now that the bigger Bayson lip has been officially discontinued, I'm trying to figure out something more interesting to do with the front end. Figured I'd try this out.

Edited by Humble Rumble
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Humble - you should do the quad brake light mod (to turns the trunk positions into position/brakes like the tailights). Its one of the best bang for the buck and functionality mods that can be done to these cars re brake/stop lights.

 

Tritons (latest gen or older) are good but you could've just gone with these VLEDs instead and gotten 4 to cover all locations at the same cost, with almost identical output and less wiring and socket clutter (280 for below vs 300 for Triton V6 Acculumen) :

http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/7443/7443-6-r.html

 

and these for turn signals all around:

http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/7443/7443-6-hv-a.html

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