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A/C Compressor Clutch Replacement - DIY Walkthrough


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After my 2006 LGT fell victim to the crank pulley delamination problem, which threw an A/C belt and destroyed my A/C wiring harness, I was faced with having the A/C compressor replaced ($820 at the dealer).

 

The service manual makes no mention of the magnetic clutch assembly being replaceable/serviceable on the compressor. In fact, the manual claims that if the clutch is faulty, the entire compressor must be replaced. As it turns out, replacing the magnetic clutch assembly is not only possible ... it's actually very straightforward. This is very useful information if you're replacing a destroyed wiring harness like I was. The wiring harness is part of the magnetic clutch, NOT the compressor itself.

 

So, rather than having a new compressor installed ... hit eBay up for a used junkyard compressor (I got mine for $85 shipped), and just swap the magnetic clutch!

 

Tools required:

 

  • Phillips screwdriver (to remove the plastic engine cover)
  • Ratchet
  • 10mm & 12mm sockets
  • 4" & 8" extensions (needed to easily remove the v-belt cover)
  • Snap ring pliers, preferably both straight and bent (or a small-bladed flat screwdriver, if you're patient)
  • Feeler gauge
  • Optional: Large channel lock pliers, chain wrench, or deep well socket (see below)

 

Prep work:

First, pop the hood and remove the plastic engine cover. Then, using 10mm & 12mm sockets, remove the v-belt cover. Using a 12mm socket, loosen the A/C v-belt (if present). You don't need to completely remove the A/C v-belt, but you will want to pull it off of the compressor pulley and move it out of your way.

 

Clutch replacement:

First, you need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the clutch itself on:

DSC_0027.thumb.jpg.0093185d521b76c6bef685a5ae1c7782.jpg

 

You can do this easily with a ratchet and 10mm socket. The only catch is that the clutch will spin with the bolt. So, you need to hold the clutch from spinning while you loosen the bolt. You could do this with a very big channel lock pliers, a chain wrench, or just wedge something in there so that the clutch won't turn. In my case, I wedged a deep well 11mm socket (honestly, the 4" socket extension would probably work just as well):

DSC_0031.thumb.jpg.a10c13f16343544b4d889b4bfe36fb2e.jpg

 

Once the bolt comes out, the outer clutch half will just slide right off. You'll see the snap ring that holds the compressor pulley on. If you are planning to reuse your existing clutch parts (pulley & outer clutch half), PAY ATTENTION TO HOW MANY WASHERS ARE IN PLACE HERE (see picture). These washers act as shims to ensure proper clutch clearance, and in some cases you may have more than one (mine had two):

DSC_0032.thumb.jpg.7b672aeeade1bea3b037d2da334e1450.jpg

 

Once you've set the washer(s) aside, you need to remove the snap ring holding the pulley on. This can be done with a snap ring pliers, or a small flat screwdriver. With a small screwdriver, you simply work around the ring prying it out from the groove it's seated in. With a snap ring pliers ... well, if you have a snap ring pliers you know how it works. ;)

 

Once the snap ring is removed, the pulley will slide right off. What's left now is the electromagnet that engages & disengages the clutch, turning the compressor on and off. This is the part that needs to be replaced if your wiring harness was destroyed by a thrown v-belt. This is also held in by a snap ring, which is easiest to get to with a big set of 45-degree bent snap ring pliers. If you're going to try and remove this one with a flat blade screwdriver, be very careful not to gouge the shaft on which the pulley bearing sits:

DSC_0039.thumb.jpg.abd7903836217a40388c795b56fb8598.jpg

 

Once the snap ring is removed, the magnet will slide right off of the compressor. At this point, perform these same steps on your junkyard compressor, removing the clutch, pulley, and magnet. Installation is the reverse of removal.

 

Two notes on reinstallation:

First, the outer clutch slides onto a splined shaft (as seen in photos above). The clutch and the splined shaft are keyed, so don't force the clutch onto the shaft if it resists. There is a black dot (seen in photos above) on the splined shaft. This must mate up with a flat spot on the inside of the clutch:

DSC_0041.thumb.jpg.80191680fd699062f2411bbaca0c7c00.jpg

 

Second, if you're reusing the clutch & pulley from your old compressor, just make sure you put any and all washers back on BEFORE the outer clutch half. With the proper number & thickness of washers in place, you should find that the clearance between the clutch surfaces (measured with a feeler gauge) is within the spec listed in the factory service manual: 0.45-0.15 mm (0.0177-0.0059 in).

 

That's it! Hopefully someone finds this useful!

Edited by SoloTSi97
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  • 8 months later...

Just talked to a Subaru Stealership Parts guy (which we all trust with our lives) LOL.

I asked him if they carry just the AC clutch assembly, and he asked for my VIN. Apparently some of the 4th Gen LGT's have pressed on clutch assemblies, and some have slip fit bolted on clutch assemblies. Mine is a 2005, with a supposed press fit clutch assembly.

 

Any shred of truth in this?

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  • 4 weeks later...
You saved me $1100. Took less than an hour to replace the clutch with one from a junkyard that cost $100.00. Total estimate to fix was $1200 from a mechanic that I trust because nobody warrantees a clutch replacement anymore.
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You saved me $1100. Took less than an hour to replace the clutch with one from a junkyard that cost $100.00. Total estimate to fix was $1200 from a mechanic that I trust because nobody warrantees a clutch replacement anymore.

 

Glad it helped! :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

A/C just stopped working today. All of a sudden. I looked at the condenser for any impact damage and do not see any. I am wondering if any of you that have posted in here have had the A/C clutch failure without the crank pulley issue?

 

I am going to get the gauges and pressure test the system this week, just thought I would ask first.

 

Nick

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A/C just stopped working today. All of a sudden. I looked at the condenser for any impact damage and do not see any. I am wondering if any of you that have posted in here have had the A/C clutch failure without the crank pulley issue?

 

I am going to get the gauges and pressure test the system this week, just thought I would ask first.

 

Nick

 

The two times I had a pressure problem, they were caused by damage to the condenser and the symptom was a *gradual* loss of cooling ability, not a sudden loss of A/C function. That said, both experiences were in other vehicles.

 

You can tell if the magnetic clutch is engaging just by looking at it. When not engaged (A/C system turned completely off), the center section of the pulley does not turn. If you turn the A/C on (manual mode so you know it should be running), the center section of the pulley should start to turn as the clutch engages. If you see this happen, it's not likely the clutch itself. Of course, it could certainly still be the compressor.

 

I don't have experience with troubleshooting A/C systems, so hopefully others have more advice for you!

 

-Bob

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Bob,

 

Appreciate the info. The clutch is definitely not turning. My first thought was damage to the condenser as well. The A/C was working Friday afternoon and then not Sat, morning. Gross damage could have caused the system to completely evacuate overnight, but I am not seeing any of that.

 

The clutch never engages.

 

My plan is to pressure test the system and if it is still holding pressure, I am going to just try replacing the clutch.

 

We shall see.

 

Nick

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  • 3 months later...
On a sidenote not to thread jack would this also be a cause of powersteering problems such as noise,squeaking and problems turning tne wheel at low speeds or a stop. My mechanic said I have rust and corrison behind tne clutch assembly and if he tighted my belt anymore it would cause the bearings to seize. Is it the a\c that only has a clutch assembly that can be serviced and or the p\s also. Edited by LegacyMUN2k6
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The P/S pump does not have a clutch ... it is working all the time. (Neither does the alternator ... only the A/C compressor does, since it switches on and off rather than actually running all the time).

 

The P/S pump is driven by a separate belt from the A/C compressor, so any issue with the A/C clutch should have no effect on the power steering.

 

If the mechanic said that there is rust/corrosion behind the clutch assembly, I don't think he was talking about power steering? It is true that tightening a belt too much will cause wear on the bearings in whatever the belt is driving, but there are two belts in there ... one drives power steering & alternator, and the other drives the A/C compressor.

 

-Bob

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Mine started making noise like a squeeling belt before it went because it was rubbing against the covers behind it. I thought it was the powersteering belt also. Turned out that the master pulley went, pulled the compressor belt off and sheered off the power to the compressor clutch costing me a headache and a bunch of cash even with a junkyard replacement for everything.
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  • 6 months later...

Just decided to fix my A/C due to the same pulley failure as so many others. Went all of last Summer without A/C. Thanks to this thread I'll hopefully get the clutch replaced, have A/C and not be too much poorer.

 

Thanks man.

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Just decided to fix my A/C due to the same pulley failure as so many others. Went all of last Summer without A/C. Thanks to this thread I'll hopefully get the clutch replaced, have A/C and not be too much poorer.

 

Thanks man.

 

Hope it helps ... good luck! I sold my LGT a couple of weeks ago, and the fixed compressor with a Perrin crank pulley never hiccuped once. :-)

 

-Bob

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  • 2 weeks later...

Back to say "Thanks". New A/C clutch installed and I have A/C again! (Now I can start bitching about how shitty the Legacy's A/C is again)

 

The snap rings were the biggest PIA, trying to get the snap ring pliers in there with the fan shroud, and hoses in the way. I came close to cutting a nuhk of the handle off my SR pliers just to be able to maneuver them in there but I ended up going to autozone and buying a cheap assed set with short handles.

 

End result is I have A/C again and it only cost me $68 for a used compressor off Ebay.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Could an AC clutch that is going bad cause vibration at idle with the AC running? My clutch and compressor have 231,000 miles. When I am in drive at a stoplight, many times there will be a vibration. If I turn the AC off, it pretty much goes away. Hate to do the clutch if I don't need it.
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Clutch is possible, though that sounds more like the bearings in the compressor itself have had it. I suppose if you can find a cheap/free compressor to steal the clutch from and try it yourself, it may pay off. More likely, you're going to need to replace the compressor, though, which probably means having a pro do the work.

 

Just my $.02.

 

-Bob

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