Replacing cam/crank seals (w/ full timing belt replacement)

So heres donation to Lgt.com. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

 

 

I am working with:

 

1997 subaru legacy 2.5 GT BD

75,000 miles (bought it off my grandfather)

 

 

Problem:

 

Oil leaking prefusly from timing belt covers

(I recently changed to semi synthetic oil which also helped the problem because its a thinner oil and seeps through cracks easier then the thicker conventional oil)

 

 

What I purchased for the job:

 

Bates timing belt kit on ebay (approx $200)

- belt

- two idlers

- cog idler

 

Four cam seals ($15 a pair or so)

Crank seal (approx $15)

water pump and gasket (approx $50)

timing belt tensioner ($150)

radiator fluid ($14)

t-belt cover gaskets top/bottom (approx $50)

t-belt cover bolts (approx $5)

 

Other things that I replaced a week before this job:

 

Thermostat and gasket (approx 20)

upper/lower radiator hoses w/ new clamps (approx $30)

 

 

And so it begins........

(Once I finished the text Ill throw some pictures in and some helpful links. Be patient and check back please)

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1.Drain the radiator

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2.Remove the top and bottom radiator hose

 

3.Remove the accessory belt covers

 

4.Remove the black bottle on the passenger side of the engine bay (some sort of vacuum device)

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5.Unbolt and remove the top radiator mounts.

 

6.Remove the radiator, fans, and overflow all in one and set aside safely.

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Note: make sure to put everything aside in a neat order so you can put it all back on in the same order. I even put pieces of paper with different parts to label where they came from)

 

7.Loosen the accessory belts and remove them. Remove the AC tensioner as well. Now that you have all that fun stuff out of the way, the real work begins.

 

8.Begin by removing the passenger and driver side t-belt covers. These covers only have three bolts a piece. These bolts can be rusted in place some times. A trick you can do is slightly tighten the bolt to break the rust and then loosen it. Also try using some PB blaster. (a bolt on mine broke in half and I needed to retap it when I had everything removed which was a pain)

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9.Before you can remove the center cover you need to unbolt the crank pulley. This takes a little bit of skill. I used a half inch ratchet with a 22mm socket (I think) and a 4 foot pipe for extra leverage. I had one person sit in the car and hold the brake and put the car into fifth gear. Once you get the bolt free. Remove the bolt and take off the crank pulley. The pulley will be tight even when the bolt is removed. Use a rubber hammer and gentle tape the pulley from all sides to help it slide off. A pulley puller can also help with this as well.

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Note: From here on out you will need to print off a copy of either the dealer manual or something similar that will give more detail on removing the timing belt. I will do my best to explain it as well and tell you the tips that I came across. But the dealer manual will fill in the spots where I leave off. I read documentation on this job for about two weeks before I started it.

 

10.Now its time to remove the center t-belt cover. There are approx six bolts on the top and three on the bottom. One of the bottom bolts is shorter then the rest. Don’t lose this one and remember where it goes. Some of the lower bolts where pretty bad so I had to get replacements at my local Subaru dealer. I also purchased new gaskets for the t-belt covers because the old ones where severely swollen with oil and no longer fit properly. Don’t cheap out and just get all new gaskets. Its worth it to keep all your hard work clean once finished.

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Note: When I took everything off I put all the bolts either with the removed parts or back where they belong loosely. I also put the parts in an order that mimicked the way they came off the car. This help for reassembly. I also put paper notes with each piece to label where it came from and what position it was in when removed.

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11.At this point you have a few options. You can purchase the dealer to hold the cams in place before you remove the timing belt, you can build your own with metal and welding or do what I did and just use some basic tools and extra delicate precision and attention. This is where the tough part starts….

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a.The problem – On this particular engine the valves have the potential to interfere with each other and cause internal damage which is really BAD! The next few steps explaining how to remove the T-belt and cam gears are ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT. Read my instructions and any other instructions you can get your hands on until you are 110 percent sure you know what you are doing. This is the time to turn back if you feel uncomfortable with the consequences of breaking valves and pay 2000 to get them fixed at the dealer.

 

 

b.The Solution – The passenger side cams are unloaded when the t-belt is set to its timing marks. This means they are safe and don’t need much attention before taking the t-belt off. The driver side cams are another story. The driver side cams are loaded, which means the cams are pushing against the springs to open the valves inside the cylinders. If they cams are turned the wrong way they cam close both the intake and exhaust at the same time which will cause internal valve damage. The intake cam on the driver’s side can only be turned in the clockwise direction. The exhaust cam can only be turned in the counter clockwise direction.

 

 

12. I put a breaker bar with a 17mm socket on the top cam and had the breaker bar rest against the AC compressor so that the intake cam would not turn in the wrong direction. I then used a 17mm box wrench to hold the bottom exhaust cam on the driver side. As my father slowly removed the t-belt, by sliding it over the lower idler pulley he was then able to sliding the belt off the passenger side cams. At this point I had enough free play to begin to turn the driver side cams.

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13. I turned the bottom exhaust cam on the driver side in the counter clockwise direction at one tooth a second making sure I held the wrench from jumping in either direction too fast. (as soon as you pass the center of the cam lobs the force against your push will quickly turn in the opposite direction and can happen before you have time to hold the opposing force.) Slowly let the cam pull your wrench until there is no pressure in either direction.

 

 

14. Next I took the breaker bar on the top cam and slowly turned the top cam at one tooth per second in the clockwise direction with the same sensitivity as the lower cam until there was no force in either direction. Now the cams are all unloaded and work can commence on the rest of the job.

 

 

15. Choose a side to start on first for cam gear removal. Wrap the old t-belt around these two cams and around one or two other idler pulleys. Use a locking pair of pliers to hold the two loosen ends of the timing belt around the last idler. Then take a large plumbers pipe wrench and squeeze the t-belt by hand to tighten any slack you may have. Have one person hold this pipe wrench tight while the other uses a breaker bar to remove the cam bolts. Be extra careful not to turn the cam gears as much as you can. Do this same procedure for the opposing side of cam gears.

 

 

16. Remove the old t-belt, old tensioner, and unbolt the old pulleys. Now take a rag and whip away all the oil and debris the best you can. I also use a small bit of dish soap and water with another clean rag to clean all the visible oil splatter as best I could.

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17. Now its time for the work we started this hole project for. I used a dentist like set of tools (small handled gasket pullers with round hooks) I poked the pointed end of the curved tool into the gasket that held against the cam and curved it back up into the gasket. I was very careful not to scar the cam or the surrounding housing. With the hook securely in the gasket I pulled it out, but was careful not to lash back and hit the AC radiator. I pulled all four cam seals and crank seal the same way.

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18. Take a clean rag and remove and debris and left over oil in the seal housing. Once you’re satisfied with it, take the new seals and slide them over the cam shafts until they sit evenly. The last half inch of the visible cam is slightly bigger than the first part. This is where you will need a 33 or 34mm deep socket. Take the socket and slide it over the cam. It should about the seal perfectly. Tap the socket with the side of a hammer carefully. The seal should then start to set in the cam seal housing tightly around the cam shaft. Remove the socket and make sure the seal is set evenly all around and is flush with the seal housing.

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19. Do this with the four cam seals and the crank seal. Double check all the seal when you finish to make sure they are seated evenly and fully into the housing. You don’t want them to blow out when you get it all back together again.

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20. Now begin to remove the water pump. Remove the pressure hose on the side of the water pump. (I replaced it because it didn’t look so swell) Then remove all the water pump bolts and take the old water pump out. Make sure to take the water pump gasket out as well. Clean thoroughly where the water pump sits. You want to make sure the new gasket sits perfectly with no debris in the way.

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21. Put the new water pump and gasket back on. This was a bit difficult and took me a few tries to get it all on and lined up just right. Put the pressure hose back on and make sure the hose clamps are nice and snug. Don’t want it leaking after the fact. Torque the water pump to the factor specs. (This is an aluminum engine and the bolts can be shred from the block if you use too much force.)

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22. Install the new cog pulley, and top idler pulley (the bottom idler pulley goes on when you put the belt on) Put the crank gear back on and install the new tensioner. (do not pull the pin on the tensioner until the t-belt is back in place) All of these items should be torque down to spec. (too loose or two tight could cause problems later)

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23. Now its back to those cam gears… Make sure you clean the cam gears well before reinstallation. I chose to put the passenger side cams on first because they were the easiest. I Installed them the same way I took them off. Use the old t-belt and clamp it down. Hold the belt tension with the large plumber pliers while someone torques the cam bolts to spec. I think they take about 60ft lbs.

 

24. Copy this method for the driver side cam bolts. Again, be careful not to turn the cams in the process for safety.

 

25. Once your satisfied with your work. Everything cleaned, installed properly, and torque to spec its time to put the new t-belt back on. Line the passenger cams with the appropriate timing marks. (the crank should already be in the proper position from when the old t-belt was removed) Put the new belt around the properly aligned passenger side cams, the top idler pulley, around the crank and water pump. Have someone now hold the new timing belt while the other adjusts the drive side cams into proper alignment.

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26.The driver side cams should be put back into alignment in the exact reverse of how they were unloaded. Take the breaker bar with the 17mm socket and turn the top cam counter clockwise at one tooth per second holding the breaker bar from jerking in either direction too quickly. Until the timing marks are aligned properly. (at this point the break bar should be able to lean against the Ac compressor pulley to keep it in place until the belt is wrapped around it) Then take your 17mm box wrench and turn the bottom cam clockwise slowly until aligned with the proper timing marks. Have the other person carefully wrap the new belt around the two cam pulleys. (Sorry if this is a bad description. This part takes some planning and finagling to do it just right with two people. Plan it out before you do it)

 

27.Have one person by hand hold the t-belt tensioner down to hold tension on the belt. Have the other person check all the timing marks once, twice and three times to make sure they are correct. When you are positive you did it right release the tensioner pin. The tensioner will tighten against the tensioner pulley and the belt should be all set.

 

28.Now it’s downhill from here on out…

 

29.Reinstalled the t-belt covers with the new gaskets. Make sure you clean the inside of all of the covers so that there is no oil or debris.

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30.Slide the crank pulley back on and put the crank bolt back in. Have someone hold the break and put it in gear. Torque the crank bolt to 130ft lbs. Now put the ac tensioner back on. Put the AC belt back on. Put the alternator belt back on and tighten both tensioners. Put the accessory covers back over the belts. Reinstalled the radiator, hoses and fluid. Put the vacuum bottle back. Make sure all radiator hoses are snug and clamped tight.

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31.Turn the key and pray you did it right. If you did, go have a brewski and a good cigar. If not, call your local dealer for further support.

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Thanks it folks. Hope that helps a bit. Ill post some helpful sites and PDF’s I used for you as well. Make sure you read everything you can get your hands on before you do this job. If don’t wrong you could severly hurt your engine.

Short video:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0O9_ImyJ4Q]YouTube- Changing a subaru impreza timingbelt cambelt[/ame]

 

Another helpful thread:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94193&page=2

 

PDF download of the dealer manual:

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1997_Legacy_FSM/

 

Good maintenance site:

http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/drivetrain/drivetrain.html

 

Another thread (read post four):

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120380&highlight=cam+gear

• T-belt Expenses:
  
• $216.00 T-belt kit
  
• $62.99 waterpump and gaskets
  
• $149.95 T-Belt Tensioner
  
• $15.73 cover gasket bottom
  
• $2.10 t-belt cover bolt
  
• $21.38 cover gasket top
  
• $1.08 t-belt cover bolt
  
• $0.44 t-belt cover bolt
  
• $7.99 bypass radiator hose
  
• $5.00 hose clamps
  
• $11.99 antifreeze
  
• $20.97cam/ crank seals
  
• $515.62
  

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc106/streetlethal1000/DSCN0580-1.jpg

 

• Other Expenses:
  
• $35.00 mirror
  
• $35.00 grill
  
• $77.00 head light
  
• $99.00 propane heater
  
• $24.57 oil and exahust patch
  
• $13.19 breaker bar
  
• $283.76
  

 

• $799.38 Total Expenses
  
• $1,650.00 Insurance money from small bumper crash
  
• $850.62 - to be spent on bumper repair
  

Priceless!

good job!

great write up!!!! thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome write up. To bad I didn't have this when I did mine. I'm thinking a sticky for this.

Thanks. That's just f""""" awesome! Good photos too.

Great write-up. I just did this to my 93 legacy. Now it won't start. I posted this in the first gen forums, but I thought I'd solicit some help here. Here's the thread on the 1st gen forum.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/93-legacy-wont-start-after-seal-fixes-141187.html?p=3012508

Thanks for this great illustration, it encourages me to do somethings alone and save

some cash.

When there is time and the budget fits

Great write up ill be using this very soon. I have the service manual and it doesnt even say anything about not letting the driver side valves slam shut.

Where did you get all your parts at?

i just bought mines from rockauto.com and i was looking at the same thing with the service manual not saying anything about loading and unloading the driver side. i wonder because that manual is mostly for 2.2l

When I removed the belt on mine I held wrenches on them expecting them to want to close and they did not move.

Is it the same way when doing the cam seals? Placing the old belt around one of the cam gears and a pulley and then putting vice grips on the end of it? Thats my only thing im worried about is holding the cam gears while loosening the bolt so i could replace the seals. Thanks

Is it the same way when doing the cam seals? Placing the old belt around one of the cam gears and a pulley and then putting vice grips on the end of it? Thats my only thing im worried about is holding the cam gears while loosening the bolt so i could replace the seals. Thanks

 

I didnt feel comfortable doing that so I had the valve covers off and used the hex on the cam.

I didnt feel comfortable doing that so I had the valve covers off and used the hex on the cam.

 

Any pics? And do u have the water pump torque specs?

Any pics? And do u have the water pump torque specs?

7.2 ft lbs on the water pump according to my fsm.

 

There is a red circle if you zoom in.

Last question. Did u unload the driver side cams? Because i kno the fsm didnt have it in there. But i kno this post did it

Last question. Did u unload the driver side cams? Because i kno the fsm didnt have it in there. But i kno this post did it

I did just cause I was taking the heads off if I was just doing the belt I would of left them be since they stayed put and just slid the new belt on.

Yea but im doing exactly what he did. The water pump, all new belts and seals. Was it noticeable when you turned to unload it?

Yea but im doing exactly what he did. The water pump, all new belts and seals. Was it noticeable when you turned to unload it?

 

If you are doing seals also I would unload the cams.

Thanks for your patience.