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Just the grooves on the LWCP wouldn't mean an oil leak, right? Where is the groove on the crank case (picture)?
We need Giovanni to chip in with the details.

 

From what he told me, what we see on the pulley itself is a result of the pulley eating away at the crankcase and taking some of the crank seal with it. When the pulley was removed, the crank seal needed to be replaced - that's where Giovanni had an oil leak.

 

It might very well be a mix of install error and supercharger accessories/pulley/bracket/belt combo.

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I guess the point I was trying to make was...either the crank case eats away at the pulley or the pulley eats away at the crank case.

 

From the looks of it, something got wedged between the pulley and crank case...pebble...and damaged both.

 

I guess I am just grasping at straws, but from the picture, it doesn't make sense that the pulley did any damage at all as it is the one that has been grooved.

 

Could a pebble get in there? Maybe. Did someone drop a screw in there while insatlling the supercharger or trying to put in an intercooler. Did a metal shaving get in there?

 

There are lots of possibilities. None of which are the pulley doing the damage.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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We had this same issue on the Infiniti forums, the crank pulley is using a softer metal (aluminum) and the seal is eating at the pulley. You need to steel sleeve the pulley and replace the oil seal. If you look at your stock pulley you might notice the same lines but no grooves because the stock pulley is a stronger material. At least that is what happened with ours.
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We had this same issue on the Infiniti forums, the crank pulley is using a softer metal (aluminum) and the seal is eating at the pulley. You need to steel sleeve the pulley and replace the oil seal. If you look at your stock pulley you might notice the same lines but no grooves because the stock pulley is a stronger material. At least that is what happened with ours.

 

On the Inifnitis, did the pulley getting grooved cause an oil leak?

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Thanks for the links.

 

I still don't understand how a pulley getting grooved caused an oil leak. What piece of the puzzle am I missing to not understand it?

 

If I have the OEM part which is stronger, you'd think that would have a greater effect on oil leak...not vise versa.

 

EDIT: I was reading into the thread a bit and found something interesting:

 

quoted:

Piniti brought up a good point to me last night as we were chatting about this via PM: that virtually everything else on the car we replace that has a seal on it (drain plugs, oil filter, etc), the seal is supposed to be replaced upon re-installation. Makes sense, then, that seeing as how this front main engine seal is so cheap and easy to replace, that it, too, should likely me replaced any time the pulley is removed and re-installed. Most may not have a problem, but seals tend to be a one use item that don't retain their original integrity upon re-use

 

 

Then I see something that makes more sense:

The Aluminum is too soft and the seal is wearing grooves in it, thus creating leakage. Yes, potentially it could be fixed, but you'd have to have someone manufacture a sleeve the right size, then have the pulley shaft machined down the proper amount to accept the sleeve.

 

Sooooo...if I understand it correctly...The seal causes a groove on the aluminum allowing oil to slowly get out. The OEM pulley being of harder metal can withstand the rubbing of the seal. There is no way to see if there is a groove until you remove the pulley because the seal gove over that part of the pulley that got grooved. There is no possibility of a screw or metal shaving to get in there as it is sealed.

 

Is that correct?

Edited by fredrik94087

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Has anyone other than gio looked to see if they were leaking oil ?

 

Great question and the answer to that is not yet, but there are a whole lot of wetting of pants going on right now! :lol:

 

I haven't had any issue with oil leaking. I've had my standard 2/3 of a quart at 3000 or so miles.

 

I wonder if the oil film I saw at the front of the motor has anything to do with it? I will look again this weekend.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Great question and the answer to that is not yet, but there are a whole lot of wetting of pants going on right now! :lol:

 

I haven't had any issue with oil leaking. I've had my standard 2/3 of a quart at 3000 or so miles.

 

I wonder if the oil film I saw at the front of the motor has anything to do with it? I will look again this weekend.

I just got mine :( I hope it can still go in lol

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Great question and the answer to that is not yet, but there are a whole lot of wetting of pants going on right now! :lol:

 

I haven't had any issue with oil leaking. I've had my standard 2/3 of a quart at 3000 or so miles.

 

I wonder if the oil film I saw at the front of the motor has anything to do with it? I will look again this weekend.

 

dang that is exactly how much i'm losing around every 3k. I wish we could find an explanation for this. I remember reading somewhere that Subaru said it was do to "Low Compression" rings that were used on the Pistons, can anyone else confirm for the 3.6r?

 

 

with that being said I found this today... http://www.graveyardmotorsports.com/Crate_Engines_Parts_Category_s/1795.htm

 

Makes me wonder what kind of car needs a Billet EZ36D. gotta be pumping out over 1000HP for that to even be necessary LOL!

 

 

P.S. not trying to get off topic, and I feel for those that May be having slight anxiety due to the recent findings of the one we call Gio.

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dang that is exactly how much i'm losing around every 3k. I wish we could find an explanation for this. I remember reading somewhere that Subaru said it was do to "Low Compression" rings that were used on the Pistons, can anyone else confirm for the 3.6r?

 

 

with that being said I found this today... http://www.graveyardmotorsports.com/Crate_Engines_Parts_Category_s/1795.htm

 

Makes me wonder what kind of car needs a Billet EZ36D. gotta be pumping out over 1000HP for that to even be necessary LOL!

 

 

P.S. not trying to get off topic, and I feel for those that May be having slight anxiety due to the recent findings of the one we call Gio.

 

You can not get off topic in the 3.6R discussion. The first page should get updated and be the best reference...if Fredrik is diligent.

 

On a side note...great little find. Too bad I don't have the budget to have them build me an engine with ported heads and a higher compression ratio to drop in my car.

 

I would love an all motor 3.6 putting out 350bhp.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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basically the seal is strong enough and hot enough while pulley in motion to both deteriorate the seal as well as carve a significant gash into the pulley. these two combined cause oil to seep out and onto the belts throwing oil all over the place while being carried by the pulley system. it is not caused by tension from the SC as the SC required a larger serpentine belt.
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Man it would be so awesome to hear some Cam lobe on a ez36, hook a 75 shot of N2 on it and call it a day!

 

but then i'm sure you would have to build the Tranny and look into the rest of the powertrain for weak links. But N2 would sure help you in those straights at Laguna!

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Thanks for your update, Italian.

 

Is the fix as simple as a new seal and put the OEM pulley back on?

 

And, if the seal is going to wear out, would it not wear faster with the OEM pulley?

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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basically the seal is strong enough and hot enough while pulley in motion to both deteriorate the seal as well as carve a significant gash into the pulley. these two combined cause oil to seep out and onto the belts throwing oil all over the place while being carried by the pulley system. it is not caused by tension from the SC as the SC required a larger serpentine belt.

 

So, the oil leakage was obvious? I checked my timing cover at the pulley and found nothing, it was completely dry. Also, if the pulley or seal is found to be defective, what are the costs in parts & labor to replace the seal and how long would it take to replace it?

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Good questions Rob. Giovanni should know for sure, but my guess is yes, we just swap the seal and OEM pulley and call it a day.

 

On the second question, I think that's likely OK if it gets to that. The timing chains, crankcase cover are normally bathed in oil.

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